Replacing coolants for VAZ (lada) 2113/2114/2115


Cooling radiator VAZ 2114: useful tips for replacement

How is the VAZ 2114 cooling radiator replaced? This question interests many owners of cars of this model, which is a restyled version of the VAZ 2109. The hood and headlights have undergone changes, plastic moldings and spoilers have been installed, and a new VAZ radiator grille has been installed on the car.

Breakdowns happen to almost all cars, the consequences of which vary. If the radiator of a VAZ 2114 breaks down, the car’s engine may overheat and fail. Therefore, you need to regularly monitor and care for this very important device in the vehicle cooling system.

Reasons for removing a cooling system element

When a car breaks down, some reasons lead to the need to remove the radiator. The main ones:

  • various types of mechanical damage;
  • individual radiator tubes are clogged with dirt, deposits in the form of scale and rust;
  • getting a car into an accident.

Replacing the device in question is not always required. Sometimes it can be repaired, washed, soldered. Modern radiators often have an aluminum core and a plastic tray. Such models are very difficult to repair.

To eliminate the malfunction or replace it, you will need to dismantle the device. You need to take this work very seriously and do it carefully. In order for the process to be carried out efficiently, you need to at least briefly know what parts the radiator assembly consists of. It includes:

  • device body;
  • expansion tank;
  • Electrical engine;
  • engine casing;
  • impeller (fan);
  • rubber cushion;
  • drain plug;
  • various hoses;
  • a pump that is powered by a drive belt.

Cooling system: 1 – expansion tank plug; 2 – expansion tank; 3 – radiator supply hose; 4 – hose from the radiator to the expansion tank; 5 – radiator outlet hose; 6 – left radiator tank; 7 – aluminum radiator tubes; 8 – sensor for turning on the electric fan; 9 – right radiator tank; 10 – drain plug; 11 – radiator core; 12 – electric fan casing; 13 – electric fan impeller; 14 – electric motor; 15 – pump gear pulley; 16 – pump impeller; 17 – camshaft drive toothed belt; 18 – heater radiator outlet pipe; 19 – pump supply tube; 20 – hose for supplying fluid to the carburetor starter; 21 – carburetor heating block; 22 – exhaust pipe; 23 – heater supply pipe; 24 – hose for draining fluid from the carburetor heating unit; 25 – thermostat; 26 – hose from expansion tank to thermostat

DIAGRAM AND DEVICE OF THE COOLING SYSTEM

The cooling system of the VAZ 2114 is liquid, with forced circulation. Antifreeze or antifreeze is poured into the system as a coolant. In the most extreme case, you can fill it with water, but you can’t drive it for a long time - in winter you can defrost the engine, and during the rest of the season, when the engine is used for a long time on water, the cooling jacket in the block and cylinder head is corroded, and rust accumulates in the radiator.

The VAZ 2114 engine cooling system (SOD) consists of the following elements:

  • Radiator. It is the main cooling part in the system and performs the function of transferring heat to the liquid into the surrounding airspace;
  • Water pump (pump). The pump creates forced movement of antifreeze in the system, thereby cooling the entire SOD, including the internal combustion engine (ICE). The pump rotates from the timing belt;
  • Branch pipes (hoses). Antifreeze circulates through them;
  • Thermostat. It regulates the passage of coolant through all pipes or only in a small circle and maintains the required operating temperature of the internal combustion engine;
  • Electric fan. The fan is located on the plane of the radiator and, due to the air flow created, cools its surface when turned on. The electric motor turns on only when the temperature set by the sensor is reached (103°C);
  • Expansion tank. Liquid is poured into the tank, and when the fan is activated, antifreeze flows into it through the return hose, thereby releasing excess pressure into the SOD;
  • Expansion tank plugs. There are valves in the plug that relieve excess air pressure created in the system when antifreeze circulates.

The VAZ 2114 cooling diagram is shown in the figure below:


Cooling diagram for VAZ-2114

The design of the engine cooling system on the VAZ model 2114 is simple and practically no different from the design of any other fuel-injected internal combustion engine of a passenger car. After starting the engine, the water pump is driven by the rotating crankshaft through the timing belt. The pump creates coolant circulation in the system, and the antifreeze passes through a small circle (pump, upper pipe, cylinder block). When the internal combustion engine is heated to operating temperature, the thermostat valve opens and the coolant flows through the lower pipe into the internal combustion engine in a large circle.

RADIATOR

The VAZ radiator is aluminum, consists of a double-row core and two plastic tanks on the sides. Coolant is poured into it through the expansion tank; there is a drain plug at the bottom.

Article on the topic: Replacing the crankshaft sensor on a VAZ 2114

PIPE

The set of cooling system pipes includes:

  • Upper and lower pipes (main);
  • Metal tube of water pump;
  • Filler hose from the expansion tank to the radiator;
  • Return hose from tank to radiator;
  • Two hoses for heating the throttle valve.


Check the integrity of the pipes (very often they sell defective ones in car dealerships)

Radiator replacement

is engaged in universal developments. For this reason, the VAZ 2114 radiator is suitable not only for this, but also for earlier and later car models. During the constant operation of this device, dirt may get into it and it may receive various mechanical damage. In some cases, the coolant itself can corrode some areas of the radiator from the inside.

How to remove the old one and install a new device? All work is carried out only on a cold engine, so as not to get burned by hot liquid. The VAZ radiator grille remains in place. Operating procedure:

  • park the car on level ground;
  • remove the battery;
  • drain the coolant by unscrewing the special plug located at the bottom left of the radiator;
  • remove the air filter;
  • remove the protective screen;
  • loosen the clamps and remove the upper and lower pipes, all tubes going to the expansion tank;
  • disconnect the power supply wire and remove the fan;
  • attach the fan system to the new unit;
  • connect the fan power cable;
  • lubricate the lower pipe with sealant and secure it in place;
  • install the upper pipe;
  • tighten the return clamp going to the expansion tank, secure the screen;
  • install an air filter;
  • fill the new radiator by pouring 5-8 liters of coolant into it through the expansion tank;
  • start the engine and let it run for a few minutes.

Radiator selection

The most popular radiators are aluminum, and this is not surprising, because they cost much less than copper (or brass), and they are much easier to find on sale. Based on the type of cooling grille, they can all be divided into two large groups: prefabricated (inside of which there are sets of plates with tubes fixed in them through which coolant circulates) and non-prefabricated (a special corrugated tape is installed inside them).

Aluminum

At the same time, all aluminum radiators (which include the DAAZ heater radiator for the VAZ 2114) have both significant advantages and certain disadvantages.

The first include:

  • low cost, especially for prefabricated models;
  • high thermal conductivity, ensuring rapid heating;
  • light weight;
  • high structural rigidity, making them quite resistant to external influences.

As negative points it is worth noting:

  • rapid cooling (again due to high thermal conductivity) - when the engine is turned off, the car cools down quickly;
  • short service life (compared to copper models);
  • low maintainability (soldering aluminum in garage conditions is extremely difficult).

It is also very important to note that it is impossible to use ordinary water as a coolant (as domestic motorists sometimes do) with an aluminum radiator installed, since it will quickly cause corrosion.

Copper

Speaking about copper radiators, it is worth saying that according to the principle of their design, they are close to aluminum non-assembled radiators, but at the same time they have much better heat transfer.

Their advantages include:

  • better heat retention, slow cooling;
  • greater efficiency due to higher heat transfer;
  • high maintainability (copper can be soldered even in “field” conditions);
  • long service life.

But, despite such important advantages, they also have the following serious disadvantages:

  • high cost (in most cases it is twice the cost of aluminum models);
  • very long heating (after turning on the stove, the interior will not warm up soon);
  • low efficiency when the engine operates at low speeds.

It is because of these shortcomings that copper radiator models are considered obsolete from a moral point of view, and increasingly even large manufacturers are installing aluminum devices on their cars.

That is why, if you are faced with the problem of choosing whether to take a radiator made of copper or aluminum, it is better to give preference to the latter option. At the same time, not only the material itself is important, but also the overall quality of workmanship.

Some useful tips

  1. To drain the coolant, you need to unscrew the plugs on the radiator, on the expansion tank and on the engine cylinder block.
  2. If the cooling system is not functioning well, the culprit may be a liquid cooling pump whose shaft bearings or seals have failed. It needs to be repaired or replaced with a new product.
  3. The cause of failure of the cooling system may be improper operation of the thermostat, which must be repaired or replaced.
  4. It is more convenient to remove the radiator together with the fan. The fan can be removed later if necessary.

You can check the tightness of the removed radiator as follows:

  • fill the bathtub with water;
  • lower the product into water and apply pressure of approximately 0.2 MPa;
  • bubbles will show where leaks have appeared.

Sometimes, to bring the radiator into working condition, it is enough to rinse it with water. It's done like this. The antifreeze or antifreeze is drained and clean distilled water is poured in. The engine starts and runs at 3000 rpm. The temperature should be monitored. They turn off the car and after 7-8 minutes drain the water. If it is not completely clean, the procedure can be repeated. If the fluid has changed color, it needs to be replaced.

What kind of liquid should be poured into the cooling system according to the passport?

Open the hood and look at the expansion tank. We see a sticker on top: it says “TC Felix-40”. This means that Felix TC-40 antifreeze, produced in the city of Dzerzhinsk (Tosol-Sintez LLC), was filled with antifreeze.

The sticker on the tank must be present

If there is no sticker, we identify the liquid by color:

  • Green – as indicated above;
  • Yellow-green (light green), there is a fluorescent effect - CoolStream Standart 40 (Tehnoform, Klimovsk).

There may be a blue coolant, but like the previous two, it is a G11 class antifreeze. The red liquid belongs to class G12 - further on it says how to dilute it.

Compatibility table for antifreeze:

  • Antifreeze class G11 – color blue, green or yellow-green. Can be diluted with antifreeze or G11 class antifreeze.
  • Class G12 – red color. In principle, it is impossible to add coolant of another class (not G12).

When buying, you need to look not at the color, but only at the designations.


Antifreezes of two different classes

In the VAZ-2114 tank, the coolant can be colored red. If it was refilled upon release, then we are talking about Felix Carbox TC-40 (G12) antifreeze. When inspecting the tank, pay attention to the presence of smudges. If there are any, then the antifreeze is knocked out of the tank and the coolant boils.

Standard concentrates contain 3% water and freeze at low temperatures. To increase it to “-40”, the water content is adjusted to 50% (proportion “1 to 1”). According to VAZ requirements, the freezing temperature should be “-40” or lower. Draw conclusions.

The volume of the cooling system of engines 2111, 11183 and 21124 is the same. It is equal to 7.8 liters. Part of the “old” fluid (1-2 l) remains in the system when replaced. Therefore, they do this: they fill the system with water (distillate), drive 10-20 km, and carry out the final replacement. All actions, of course, are performed in the warm season.


Ignition module - how to remove it

To get to the drain plug, you need to remove the ignition module from the 11183 engine. What needs to be done: disconnect the low-voltage connector, unscrew the three screws (see photo). You can then remove the module along with the bracket.

For a complete replacement, it is recommended to choose any material from the list:

  • CoolStream Standard – green, G11;
  • CoolStream Premium - orange, meets the requirements of class G12, but belongs to class G12 or G11 (the manufacturer does not specify);
  • “Lada Concentrate” - G11, manufactured by “Bulgar Lada Plus” (Kazan) or “Oil Center” (Tolyatti);
  • "Lada A-40" - the same as "Lada Concentrate", but in a ready-to-use form;
  • OZhK, also OZh-40 or OZh-65 “TOSOL-TS” - different names and concentrations of antifreeze from the city of Dzerzhinsk (see above);
  • OZhK, OZh-40 or OZh-65 “TOSOL-TORSA” – blue-green, G11;
  • "Antifreeze G-48" - G11. The material has been discontinued and was produced in the city of Perm.

The photo below shows an example of a fake.


Antifreeze "Dzerzhinsky" A-40M

The name contains everything – Dzerzhinsk and A-40. Be careful.

DIY radiator grille

Some car owners, for various reasons, do not like the VAZ radiator grille. This is a completely fixable matter. In spare parts stores you can find and buy a suitable model and install it on your car. But it’s more interesting when the VAZ radiator grille is made by hand. This work will take a little time. To complete it you need:

  1. First, the old VAZ radiator grille is removed.
  2. The central part is cut out with a jigsaw.
  3. Use a thin sheet of cardboard or plastic to go around the workpiece and mark the places where the new VAZ radiator grille will go.
  4. Excess material is cut off.
  5. The grate is cleaned with sandpaper.
  6. Fiberglass impregnated with resin is applied. The resin will have to be applied several times until the desired layer thickness is achieved.
  7. The fiberglass is puttied.
  8. The resulting VAZ radiator grille is painted and dried.

The VAZ radiator grille is ready. The old part requires some care when removing it from the car. All fastening bolts are unscrewed carefully so as not to damage the site for mounting the new part. The new VAZ radiator grille usually has holes that do not coincide with the mounting sockets.

They need to be modified using the old lattice as a template. After installation, the homemade VAZ radiator grill is checked for the presence of squeaks and other extraneous sounds. The new VAZ radiator grille together with the bumper can change the appearance of the front of the car beyond recognition.

The cooling radiator can be replaced after an accident when the grille and the radiator itself are broken. It may be required when tuning a car. This can be done at a service station without any problems. Or you can save money and do everything yourself. This work does not present any great difficulties, but everything must be done carefully and slowly. The cooling system requires constant maintenance and periodic replacement of coolant.

Cooling system of an injection engine on a VAZ 2114 (diagram)

Alas, the build quality of the VAZ 2114 radiator and the cooling system as a whole leaves much to be desired, which is why it can fail over time. The main disadvantage of the OS (cooling system) of the “fourteenth” model is the need for constant monitoring, regular maintenance and repair.

The solution to these issues is complicated by the fact that the cooling system of the injection engine on the VAZ 2114 is quite complex and includes 28 elements. The most convenient way to get to know them is on a special chart.

CHOICE

So which heater radiator is better, copper or aluminum for a VAZ 2114? Let's consider the disadvantages of each manufacturing material.

Copper or aluminum?

What can you say about the aluminum stove radiator? Aluminum has good thermal conductivity and therefore heats up quite quickly. True, it also cools down almost immediately. Therefore, when you turn off the engine, the cabin of the 2114 will become cold after a while.

A solid (or prefabricated) heat exchanger has plates as a heat exchanger, and inside them there are tubes through which coolant flows. The tanks on the part are plastic. This design is the cheapest, but the heat transfer is low. Such spare parts are products of a non-original manufacturer. In a non-assembled radiator, the heat-dissipating element is a corrugated tape. The tanks of the product are soldered and are often made of metal. But the soldering is factory-made, and it is very problematic to repair a leak in aluminum using a makeshift method.

How the OS works

The electric fan is located on the electric motor shaft. Depending on the indicators of the sensor, it is turned on or off. One of the main elements of the OS is a thermostat valve with a storage tank , which senses changes in air temperature.

If the fluid temperature is around 87 degrees, the main valve turns on and sends fluid through the large circuit. At a temperature of 102 degrees, the valve stops at 8 mm.

Replacing the coolant

To normalize the cooling system on a VAZ 2114, sometimes it is enough to replace the coolant. To determine when this needs to be done, you should know some nuances:

  • The effective life of antifreeze is 2 years, and antifreeze is 5 years;
  • Typically, replacing antifreeze is required after a mileage of 20-40 thousand kilometers, depending on operating conditions;
  • A changed color of the composition indicates that it needs to be replaced.

antifreeze as a liquid , since it has a long service life and does not wear out the system so intensively. in favor of antifreeze is its affordable price.

Before adding new fluid, the system should be flushed. For this:

  • Drain all existing coolant from the system;
  • Screw the plugs tightly;
  • Fill with high-quality distilled water to the maximum;
  • Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature;
  • The revolutions should be about 3 thousand. Avoid overheating the engine;
  • After turning off the engine, leave the car for 7 minutes, after which the water is drained. If the system is heavily contaminated, the procedure must be repeated until completely clean distillate begins to pour out.

OVEN RADIATOR

Often the reason for the lack of heat in the car is the heater radiator on a VAZ. The VAZ 2114 heater radiator is designed to transfer heat from the coolant passing through it into the car interior. Over time, this element becomes clogged with dirt and debris, and coolant does not pass through it. Someone is trying to flush the system by adding special chemical liquids to the antifreeze, but practice shows that nothing better can be thought of as a replacement. Replacement is more expedient, the radiator is generally inexpensive, and removing and installing it again is quite troublesome. The part is also replaced if antifreeze begins to leak in the cabin. All stove radiators (RS) can be divided into three types according to the material of manufacture and type of manufacture:

  1. Prefabricated aluminum;
  2. Non-prefabricated aluminum;
  3. Copper (brass).

The aluminum radiator of the Dimitrovgrad Automotive Aggregate Plant (abbreviation DAAZ) is considered factory-made.

In turn, aluminum parts may not be original. As a rule, they are significantly cheaper than factory spare parts, but the quality varies.

Car owners do not have a consensus on which cooling radiator is better to install in the stove on a VAZ 2114, but original spare parts are definitely the most reliable. Among the manufacturers of parts we can note:

The cost of all radiators is different; copper parts are considered the most expensive. You should know that the radiator of the VAZ 2115 (VAZ 2113) stove is absolutely identical to the stove element of the 2114 model, so they are completely interchangeable. In addition, the spare part can be easily installed in VAZ models 2108-09-099, as well as ZAZ 1102 (Tavria), without any modifications.

There are many negative reviews about the RP company LUZAR. Buyers note that they do not heat the interior well and often leak. Therefore, it is worth considering whether it is worth purchasing the products of this company.

Why the OS does not work

If you don’t know which cooling radiator is best to choose for the VAZ 2114, look at the existing one. Buy an analogue from the manufacturer, or purchase a device with the closest characteristics.

The fourteenth model is equipped with an aluminum radiator with two additional tanks. The radiator design includes:

  • Radiator;
  • Upper tank with pipes;
  • Bottom tank with pipes.

OVEN RADIATOR

Often the reason for the lack of heat in the car is the heater radiator on a VAZ. The VAZ 2114 heater radiator is designed to transfer heat from the coolant passing through it into the car interior. Over time, this element becomes clogged with dirt and debris, and coolant does not pass through it. Someone is trying to flush the system by adding special chemical liquids to the antifreeze, but practice shows that nothing better can be thought of as a replacement. Replacement is more expedient, the radiator is generally inexpensive, and removing and installing it again is quite troublesome. The part is also replaced if antifreeze begins to leak in the cabin. All stove radiators (RS) can be divided into three types according to the material of manufacture and type of manufacture:

  1. Prefabricated aluminum;
  2. Non-prefabricated aluminum;
  3. Copper (brass).

The aluminum radiator of the Dimitrovgrad Automotive Aggregate Plant (abbreviation DAAZ) is considered factory-made.

In turn, aluminum parts may not be original. As a rule, they are significantly cheaper than factory spare parts, but the quality varies.

Car owners do not have a consensus on which cooling radiator is better to install in the stove on a VAZ 2114, but original spare parts are definitely the most reliable. Among the manufacturers of parts we can note:

The cost of all radiators is different; copper parts are considered the most expensive. You should know that the radiator of the VAZ 2115 (VAZ 2113) stove is absolutely identical to the stove element of the 2114 model, so they are completely interchangeable. In addition, the spare part can be easily installed in VAZ models 2108-09-099, as well as ZAZ 1102 (Tavria), without any modifications.

There are many negative reviews about the RP company LUZAR. Buyers note that they do not heat the interior well and often leak. Therefore, it is worth considering whether it is worth purchasing the products of this company.

Radiator replacement

The replacement procedure itself is as follows.

  1. Unscrew the plug from the expansion tank and the cylinder and radiator plugs.
  2. Drain the coolant into a large container.
  3. Disconnect the radiator ventilation system from the battery.
  4. Remove the silicone pipes of the VAZ 2114 cooling system by disconnecting them from the radiator and tank.
  5. Remove the mounting bolts from the casing.
  6. Hold the radiator and remove the skin and fan together.
  7. This will completely free the radiator, so you can easily replace it with a new one.
  8. Assembly of the unit is carried out in reverse order. After replacing the radiator, start the engine and check the efficiency of the new unit.

Replacing antifreeze on a VAZ 2114

One of the most important questions that a Lada driver faces is what is needed to replace the coolant in a VAZ 2114. All car owners sooner or later ask questions about the internal safety of the parts of their vehicle. After all, taking care of your car is directly proportional to traffic safety. Complete beginners turn to the help of service station specialists. But, after the first or second such treatment, they begin to understand how to do it themselves.

Radiator repair

In some cases, the radiator can be repaired, so you don’t have to buy a new spare part.

Most often, liquid leaks at the junction of plastic and metal parts. If there is a small leak, you can pour a special liquid with a coolant mixture inside the radiator. Thanks to its special composition, this product will seal the defects that caused the leak. If the damage is serious, repairs will no longer save the situation; you will still have to replace the radiator.

To check the tightness of the radiator, you can conduct a simple experiment at home.

  1. Fill the bathroom with enough water to submerge the radiator.
  2. Close all pipe openings tightly.
  3. Lower the radiator under water about 30-50 centimeters. Apply a pressure of 0.2 MPa to it.
  4. Watch what happens. If bubbles appear, the system is not sealed and needs to be repaired or replaced.

Do not even try to repair the radiator after side or frontal impacts in an accident. In such situations, he suffers first of all, and no clogging liquids will help you.

Thermostat problems

When the temperature reaches 95 degrees Celsius, the liquid begins to flow through the thermostat. Due to the operation of this unit, the engine requires a minimum of time and resources to warm up. The thermostat is located between the radiator and the engine.

Most often there are two types of faults.

  1. The valve closes. If the engine is not warmed up, it is difficult to maintain speed. It may simply stall.
  2. The valve opens. During frosty periods, you can operate the car, but you must turn on the heating at maximum speed. Otherwise, the power unit will simply overheat.

If you are unable to move the valve while repairing the thermostat, don't be afraid to lightly tap the housing with a simple screwdriver. This will solve a common problem.

When the thermostat is completely disassembled, the pipes are hermetically sealed, which will prevent coolant leakage. Only after this can you start working.

In general, the choice between antifreeze and antifreeze should not be a problem for you. Choose antifreeze. Although it is more expensive, it lasts longer and allows you to minimize possible problems with wear and tear of the cooling system. The imaginary savings due to antifreeze are not called that for nothing. In the future, you will pay much more to fix the damage caused by the use of antifreeze.

Replacement of cooling radiator VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

During vehicle operation, various damage to the cooling radiator is possible, as a result of which the coolant level decreases, which in turn can lead to engine overheating and costly repairs. Therefore, if a VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 needs to replace the cooling radiator, there is no need to hesitate - we buy a new one and carry out the repairs ourselves, following the step-by-step instructions in the photo and video.

Causes of breakdowns of the VAZ-2115 cooling system

Nothing lasts forever, so the cooling system can also break down. Every car enthusiast can cope with the malfunction; it’s not difficult to do it yourself, especially since you now know what the VAZ-2115 cooling device circuit looks like and works.

First you need to accurately determine the problem that has arisen, it could be:

  1. Incorrect thermostat operation. We check the thermostat for serviceability: start the VAZ-2115 engine and wait until the engine temperature reaches 97 degrees. Now feel the lower pipe located under the thermostat: if it is cold, the thermostat valve is broken.
  2. The coolant level is not enough or the old used substance needs to be replaced with a new one. Antifreeze is easy to replace without the help of professionals: place a container under the car, drain the old antifreeze, then go through the cooling system thoroughly, cleaning it of dirt with special detergents, which can be purchased at a car store. All that remains is to fill in new fluid. The VAZ-2115 injector is easier to maintain than a car with a radiator. To drain the radiator fluid, use the following instructions:
      remove the engine protection;
  3. move the stove heater temperature regulator to the left, moving it to the highest temperature;
  4. open the expansion tank cap;
  5. place a container under the radiator, leave the drain plug in the open position and drain the old antifreeze (when handling the drain plug, do it carefully, otherwise there is a possibility of flooding the generator);
  6. 10 minutes and the antifreeze is drained, you can fill in new antifreeze.
  7. Violation of the tightness of the VAZ-2115 cooling system. In a confined space, the boiling temperature reaches 130 degrees, and under normal conditions it is 108 degrees. As you can see, insufficient tightness provokes poor performance of the cooling system.

How can I solve this problem? Buy a special antifreeze, but carefully read the composition on the package - the cooling agent must contain fluorescent additives. These components provide ultraviolet illumination, which makes identifying a crack much easier than blindly.

Now you know the exact diagram of the VAZ-2115 cooling system and can handle troubleshooting yourself. If you are not confident in your abilities, enlist the help of a friend and start repairing.

Cooling system design for VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 2113, do-it-yourself repair

Tools required for repairs

If you want to do the repairs yourself, you need to prepare the following tools:

  • keys for 8 and 10;
  • screwdrivers;
  • heads for 8 and 10;
  • pliers;
  • container for draining antifreeze;
  • jack;
  • sealant;
  • rags.

Independent work is completely justified, since as of March 24, 2019, the average price for replacing a cooling radiator for a VAZ 2114 and other models is 2.2 thousand rubles. Which will more than double costs.

Order of Operations

If the car has a low seating position or the coolant drain tank is large, work should begin by lifting the car with a jack. The radiator is installed on the TV along with fog and regular headlights. Work should only begin with a cold engine. If the engine is hot, be sure to wait until it cools down.

Now you can get started:

  1. After removing the plug from the expansion barrel, the working fluid is drained into a container. It is necessary to drain all the antifreeze that is in the cooling system.
  2. Now you need to dismantle the filter.
  3. The radiator must be removed together with the electric fan. To do this, you need to disconnect the power supply to the cooler. Now you need to unscrew the pressure plate and remove it.

  4. Now you need to remove the inlet and outlet hoses from the pipes. To do this, loosen the fastener clamp.

The radiator with fan is tilted towards the engine and removed. Attention! Before pulling out the fan, you need to disconnect the wires. They are usually located at the bottom of the device. This is necessary in order to maintain the functionality of the wiring.

  • Now you need to disconnect the fan from the radiator. To do this, use a 10mm wrench to unscrew 2 nuts. The fan must be removed along with the casing.
  • Installation of the radiator is carried out in the reverse order to that described above. It begins with switching the new node and the fan. Important! Before replacing, make sure that there are 2 rubber cushions. If they are missing, install new ones in the crossmember holes. If they are in place, then the installation of the new unit is carried out on them.

Let's summarize

In general, repairs are quite accessible for doing it yourself, but you need to immediately prepare for a significant time investment. Work can last for 2-6 hours. When replacing the radiator, it is necessary to change the coolant. Work with 8-valve and 16-valve engines is carried out in the same way. If the car has air conditioning, you will have to remove and install it during the repair, but not on all models. It is advisable to replace the bushings at the same time. The work is completed by checking the functionality of the engine and the condition of the coolant. Namely, whether it is boiling.

We replace the engine cooling radiator on a VAZ-2114 with our own hands: removal and replacement

The cooling radiator is one of the most important parts of the car engine cooling system. A radiator failure can lead to engine overheating and, as a consequence, subsequent failure. The consequence of engine overheating may be a major overhaul of the engine and the entire cooling system. In this case, you can consider installing a power unit from a foreign car.

Replacing a radiator on a VAZ-2114

To complete the work, the following tools and materials are required:

  • keys and heads for 8 and 10;
  • pliers;
  • screwdriver;
  • sealant.

Replacement sequence

  • The work is carried out when the car engine has cooled down. Remove the plug from the expansion tank and drain the antifreeze.

  • Remove the air filter housing.

  • We dismantle the radiator together with the cooling fan, which is easier, or first the fan, and then the radiator itself, which is somewhat more complicated. To do this, remove the power connector for the electric fan motor, remove the clamps and disconnect all the pipes leading to the radiator.

  • We unscrew the plate securing the radiator, tilt it towards the engine and remove it from the installation site.

  • Installation of a new radiator is carried out in the reverse order. After installation in place, it is necessary to pour new antifreeze into the expansion tank, check the operation of the engine and the operation of the cooling system. Wait until the cooling fan turns on and check if the antifreeze in the tank is boiling.

The work of replacing the engine cooling radiator on a VAZ-2114 car is a fairly simple process, and if you have basic plumbing skills, you can do it yourself.

Mandatory conditions are accuracy and compliance with instructions. The engine cooling system is one of the main ones and therefore requires constant attention and care; the coolant must be replaced periodically. Taking care of the cooling system will ensure a long engine life and reduce the cost of operating the car itself.

The main causes of radiator failure

Let's look at the main reasons for radiator failure on a VAZ-2114:

  1. mechanical damage (bounced stones or large debris on the road);
  2. deposits inside the tubes in the form of scale or rust, dirt;
  3. damage as a result of an accident.

How to prevent engine overheating?

To prevent engine overheating, it is necessary to constantly monitor the amount of coolant in the expansion tank, the operation of the thermostat and the condition of the radiator itself.

The appearance of traces of coolant on the asphalt after a short or long period of parking, as well as wet marks on the radiator itself, is a signal to check the radiator for leaks and possibly subsequently replace it.

Coolant leaks can be caused by small cracks or loose connections. In such cases, it is possible to repair the radiator even without dismantling it. When repair is not possible, the only option is replacement.

Detailed video about replacing the cooling radiator on a VAZ-2114

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The main causes of radiator failure

Engine cooling radiator

Let's look at the main reasons for radiator failure on a VAZ-2114:

  • mechanical damage (bounced stones or large debris on the road);
  • deposits inside the tubes in the form of scale or rust, dirt;
  • damage as a result of an accident.

How to prevent engine overheating?

To prevent engine overheating, it is necessary to constantly monitor the amount of coolant in the expansion tank, the operation of the thermostat and the condition of the radiator itself.

This is what a newly installed engine cooling radiator looks like. You need to make sure it is clean and blow it out regularly.

The appearance of traces of coolant on the asphalt after a short or long period of parking, as well as wet marks on the radiator itself, is a signal to check the radiator for leaks and possibly subsequently replace it.

Coolant leaks can be caused by small cracks or loose connections. In such cases, it is possible to repair the radiator even without dismantling it. When repair is not possible, the only option is replacement.

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