Chery Amulet won't start
A car is a faithful assistant to a modern person, as it allows you to quickly get to any point in the city and suburbs. Foreign and domestic concerns are constantly producing new vehicles that combine quality, reliability and functionality.
But Chery was able to develop not only stylish, but also reliable cars, the popularity of which has remained for a long time. For connoisseurs of high-quality budget cars of foreign production, this is the best option.
The Story of Cherie Amulet
The Chery Amulet car is a Chinese-made creation, which, since entering the consumer market in 2003, began to gain popularity due to the combination of technical quality and attractive appearance. The liftback was initially produced in China in the city of Wuhu from 2003 to 2006, after which the patent was sold for production in Egypt at the old Daewoo Egypt plant. Chinese manufacturers agreed to sell the patent for the reason that, by their standards, the Chery Amulet car is outdated, so it is not worth taking over the concern. But if in China the car was already considered obsolete, then throughout the world its popularity gradually increased and at some period reached its maximum.
But the Daewoo Egypt company did not produce Amulet cars for long, since the lack of the desired financial income became the main reason for the sale of the business to Ukraine, namely to the AvtoZAZ plant, which is still engaged in production. But, as experienced users of Cherry Amulet cars say, models produced before 2010 were considered the highest quality, since the Ukrainian company ZAZ made its own technical changes, due to which motorists often encounter car malfunctions.
Typical faults
The Cherry Amulet starting device has several characteristic malfunctions. They interfere with the normal operation of the starter and require immediate attention.
Sticking brushes and other brush assembly problems
It happens that the brushes on the rotary starter of the 1.6-liter Amulet A11-3708110 get stuck. Because of this, problems with starting the engine may occur. In this case, the starting device must be disassembled and cleaned using VD-40. At the same time, check the brushes for service life - replace those that are worn out.
Problems with the brush assembly are immediately noticeable:
- The car either starts with the key or does not start;
- the engine does not start with the key - the ignition is turned on, the system diagnoses the car, then the indicator goes out without any errors on the display, but after turning the key in the ignition switch there is no reaction;
- The engine starts easily from the pushrod.
Rotor wear
If, after disassembly, scratches, scratches and other defects are visible on the armature commutator, it must be sanded with fine glass sandpaper. This is provided that the defects are small. It is also recommended to carefully clean the grooves. But if the surface is significantly rough or mica moves out between the plates, the collector must be turned on a lathe. After this, sand with fine abrasive paper.
Special attention should be paid to checking the runout relative to the axle. For a rotary manifold, this figure should not exceed 0.05 mm. You should also inspect the reliability of soldering the armature winding leads to the plates. If the contacts are weak, it would be better to replace the rotor.
Breakdown
Due to excessive loads, the starter on a Cherie Amulet car may simply boil. The engine will first begin to start more and more difficult, then only clicks will be heard. If, after disassembling the device, it turns out that the brush group has turned into an unpleasant-smelling adhesive mass, and scuffs and other damage appear on the commutator, you need to either replace the entire starter or carry out proper repairs. In the latter case, the textolite plate of the brush group is completely replaced, naturally, along with the brushes and the rotor commutator.
The armature winding must be checked for breakdowns. The tester must be turned on in resistance measurement mode. This indicator should tend to infinity, otherwise there is a short circuit.
To avoid many problems with the starter, it is recommended to follow several mandatory rules:
- do not keep the starter in rotation mode for more than 10 seconds and more than 15 seconds in winter;
- reactivate the starter no earlier than a 20-second pause;
- after three unsuccessful attempts to start the engine, be sure to check and eliminate faults in the fuel or electrical systems (ignition);
- Immediately turn the ignition key back as soon as the engine starts - otherwise the bendix teeth will break.
The main causes of breakdowns and ways to solve them
Failures can be roughly divided into spontaneous ones due to wear of parts and operational ones, which appeared during the process of improper maintenance of the car. To avoid technical inconveniences, the owner is responsible for periodic maintenance of the vehicle.
Why won't the Chery Amulet car start? Every second owner of this vehicle has encountered this problem. The main reason is the poor quality of the starter, since gradual wear leads to the supply of less electrical voltage, which does not allow the entire circuit to be activated to subsequently start the engine.
If the starter turns, but the car still does not start, the causes of the malfunction may lie in something else: oxidation of the wires, charring of the spark plugs, failure of power supply from the battery, disruption of the electrical circuit between the starter and the engine due to damage to the wiring. In some cases, the lack of starting torque is due to a malfunction of the ignition switch, loss of idle speed and technical problems in the engine itself. Detailed diagnostics using precision equipment is an excellent opportunity to determine the location of the problem and eliminate it without interfering with additional parts and systems.
There are several possible problems that can lead to the engine not starting. Their detailed study is an opportunity to obtain high-quality repairs and restore the normal functioning of the entire car.
Problem | Reasons for appearance | Solution |
No motor power | The lack of power is due to a loss of electric current between parts or due to faulty spark plugs. | Detailed inspection of engine power supply devices, cleaning or replacement of spark plugs. |
Incorrect fuel injection into the system | Fuel pump failure or pressure drop in it. | Check the hoses and the pump itself for damage to quickly solve the problem. |
No idle speed | Failure of the throttle position sensor. | Checking the system using special equipment and adjusting the idle speed. The lack of automatic recovery requires mechanical intervention. |
Oil pressure drop | If the oil light is on on the instrument panel, this indicates a problem with pressure, that is, the substance is not supplied correctly to the system, which causes interruptions in operation. If you do not respond to such a signal in a timely manner, you may encounter serious problems in the operation of the engine itself. | Checking the oil pressure level, oil supply pipes and pump. As a rule, the problem is localized precisely in the pump that produces the wrong pressure. Repairing or replacing it will restore normal operation. |
Engine overheating | The movement of the coolant in a small circle, and not in a large one, due to which the engine temperature is disturbed. | Checking the flaps of the transition of the small circle to the large one. Replacing such a small part prevents major problems with the engine. |
No ignition | Loss of current may be due to problems with the ignition switch. | Cleaning oxidized wires or replacing the ignition switch will eliminate the problem. |
Battery problems | Battery discharge or failure due to improper use. This also includes the use of a low-quality battery that cannot cope with the assigned load. | Recharge or completely replace the battery if it cannot be restored. |
Wiring fault | Over time, the wires may oxidize, become charred, or break off. | Detailed diagnostics combined with timely cleaning of the wires will help avoid such a malfunction. |
Electrical malfunction | This is justified by the fact that the car has low ground clearance, so when driving through swampy areas or deep puddles, water can get into the body and, accordingly, onto working parts. Technical wear and tear is another problem. | Checking connections of electrical equipment and the units themselves. Drying or replacing damaged elements depending on the cause of the malfunction. |
Starter problems | The starter in Chery Amulet cars is a weak point and a headache for all its owners. Weak contacts, which contribute to disruption of the electrical circuit, lead to a lack of starting torque even when the engine temperature is hot. | Checking wire components and related systems for burnt contacts or charring. In certain cases, the problem can only be solved by replacing the starter. |
In the end, it must be said that appropriate maintenance at a service center and timely response to irregularities in the vehicle’s operation are an opportunity to prevent the occurrence of various types of problems.
Chery Amulet is a reliable Chinese-made car that can create driving comfort only if the owner pays attention in the form of timely oil and filter and diagnostics of basic technical components. The car will become a faithful assistant in everyday and business affairs, so you should not neglect even minor inaccuracies in the work.
Source: zapchasti.expert
Chery amulet car won't start reasons
The car does not start, there is no spark. Everything that could be changed was changed or checked on another machine. What can you tell me? The starter is working.
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Still started the car. It was a problem with the starter, the starter took all the energy, but the brains only work at 9 volts. If less, then the brains block the entire ignition system.
List of changes please!
And tried and tested. So as not to print too much!
If everything has already been changed (including the coil?), then the DPKV remains faulty - if that was also changed, then the engine control unit is faulty (has it really been replaced too?). Is there an immobilizer included?
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UPD 11.04. Tesla BB wires arrived. On the day of checking the circuits, I also removed the lambda chip (on the advice of one person, despite the fact that it was stitched to E0). Apparently the chip got wet and shortened. I replaced the wires today, the car started up - everything is ok
History: Hello everyone) Once I parked the car after another trip and a couple of days later I got ready to run errands again. I go out and start it, but it won’t start. It twists and turns like crazy (there is a battery charge), but it doesn’t catch at all. It's as if water was poured in instead of gasoline. There were no signs during the last trip. Everything worked normally and quietly. And the car just stood there, no one approached it at all. — There is a spark on cylinders 2 and 3, sometimes it slips on cylinder 1. Never appeared on 4. I don’t rule out the explosive wires - they’re already on their way, I’m waiting - I measured the resistance of the primary and secondary windings on the coil - the values are just like in the book. — Candles have nothing to do with it (well, I have 2 sets of them). — The fuel pump is buzzing before starting. Gasoline is leaking from the pipe. The wells smell of gasoline. The candles are wet. This means the pump is working, fuel enters the cylinders. — The masses have been cleaned — I disassembled the ECU — no burns. — I rang all the sensors up to the ECU plug - everything was ringing. There is ground on the ECU, and therefore there is power too. On the tidy, as it should, the check light comes on during self-diagnosis - DPC can also be excluded, because There is a spark though on some spark plugs, the fuel pump is working. Well, I also have 2 of them - the ECU is flashed to Euro-0 - the fuel filter is new (from Priora, if anything, not “original”) - the air filter is clean - the timing belt is in place
There is a nuance. I refueled 15 minutes before the end of the last trip (5 liters left, refueled another 5 liters). But if the gasoline was so bad, then I would have twitched. And if the coil malfunctioned, at least it seemed to grab the triple/double. The weather was very damp when we tried to start it, it was raining. Maybe it's somehow related
Alternatively, what could cause the ECU to go into protection?
Where else should I look while I have time while waiting for BB wires?
ok thanks, I think I’ll need them very soon, I’ve already climbed in them three times, it’s a very hydroscopic place
Yes, dampness is a problem not only for the mule, but the location of these switches and the ECU brains themselves is of course strange, right in the very dampness
Yes, you can pick it up from VAZ
thank you, I also picked it up from a Lada car. IT WORKS
please tell me it didn’t start, that is, the starter didn’t turn. My situation is this; I was driving along and suddenly it stalled. While I was rolling, I tried it at speed, it started, I took it off speed, it stalled. . I try to start it, the starter turns and does not start. I removed the idle speed sensor, and it was covered in soot. ..took off the first spark plug - it was clean. where to look for the reason.
Amulet 2007 Arrived at the parking lot in summer, warm and dry. An hour later I leave, it started at the drop of a hat, but I turned it off at the barrier to pay for parking, it doesn’t want to start, it doesn’t even have enough power. The parking attendant said, don’t bother, it won’t start, it will sit and start just fine. He explained that Cherie Amulet often noticed this in his parking lot. No one knows the reasons. I waited and started it right away. What kind of Magic. Who knows.
I have had this problem for six months: the starter turns, but the engine does not start. This happens more often in hot weather. And this can happen at any moment. Who can tell?
+Geryk Vova keeps its speed due to the idle speed sensor. I installed the Boshevsky one and it holds all the speed.
Kirill in me did not start, they started it from a tug and it ran at 3 thousand rpm and the rpm did not drop
Hi, I had this happen too, I had to throw away my original relyushki, they were very oxidized. Since there was no place to buy original ones, I bought two relays from a VAZ 2110 from a Gasoline Pump, according to the diagram they fit like original ones and are still working. But if you buy VAZ cars, then only of good quality, so as not to end up in the middle of the road.
Source: litezona.ru
Download - Why won't the Cherry Amulet start?
Yulia Davidyuk
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ok thanks, I think I’ll need them very soon, I’ve already climbed in them three times, it’s a very hydroscopic place
Hi, I had this happen too, I had to throw away my original relyushki, they were very oxidized. Since there was no place to buy original ones, I bought two relays from a VAZ 2110 from a Gasoline Pump, according to the diagram they fit like original ones and are still working. But if you buy VAZ cars, then only of good quality, so as not to end up in the middle of the road.
Yes, dampness is a problem not only for the mule, but the location of these switches and the ECU brains themselves is of course strange, right in the very dampness
thank you, I also picked it up from a Lada car. IT WORKS
please tell me it didn’t start, that is, the starter didn’t turn. My situation is this; I was driving along and suddenly it stalled. While I was rolling, I tried it at speed, it started, I took it off the speed, it stalled. . I try to start it, the starter turns and does not start. I removed the idle speed sensor, and it was covered in soot. ..took off the first spark plug - it was clean. where to look for the reason.
I have a problem: in the morning I started it up at 18 times, I thought it was the fuel pump, and when I took the fuel pump off, I found a hole in the pipe right next to the pump, so the pressure didn’t build up, then I replaced the pipe, and it became a problem.
Can someone tell me what the reason is, everything started up fine, then once and for all, it stopped starting, the starter turns but won’t start
Why won't the relay start? There is no working spark.
Amulet 2007 Arrived at the parking lot in summer, warm and dry. An hour later I leave, it started at the drop of a hat, but I turned it off at the barrier to pay for parking, it doesn’t want to start, it doesn’t even have enough power. The parking attendant said, don’t bother, it won’t start, it will sit and start just fine. He explained that Cherie Amulet often noticed this in his parking lot. No one knows the reasons. I waited and started it right away. What kind of Magic. Who knows.
I have had this problem for six months: the starter turns, but the engine does not start. This happens more often in hot weather. And this can happen at any moment. Who can tell?
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Cherie's amulet pours candles
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pours candles on Chery Amulet
after changing the oil, the spark plugs started to fill, and two spark plugs are constantly filling, the second set is always ready for replacement, and so every time I change one for another. Who can tell me what to do?
If you get behind the wheel and find that the engine won’t start, don’t be discouraged. Maybe your spark plugs are just flooded. This problem especially often arises in the winter season, which already causes a lot of trouble for motorists. Most often, spark plugs are filled with gasoline, sometimes with oil. You need to understand how and why this happens, then you can act proactively and avoid a situation where the car cannot be started. Well, if everything has already happened, then it would be nice to know how to return the spark plugs to working condition and start the engine.
Symptoms and mechanism of flooding
When it comes to flooded spark plugs, it does not matter what we are dealing with: a carburetor or an injector. Both engine types are not protected from flooding. Its consequences are unpleasant because they do not allow the engine to start. At the same time, it may smell like gasoline, the starter may crank, but most importantly, traces of a foreign substance can be easily detected on the spark plugs themselves: gasoline, oil or carbon deposits. To assess the condition of the spark plugs, they must be unscrewed.
The filling mechanism is quite simple. The fuel supplied to operate the engine does not ignite. The spark plugs get wet, and this prevents the engine from starting normally.
Seven reasons to fill candles when cold
If you decided to start the engine, but nothing happened, and instead you found spark plugs stained with gasoline, then this could happen for the following reasons:
1. Insufficiently charged battery. Even if at positive temperatures the battery coped with its tasks without problems, the onset of frost could radically change the situation. It is enough for the battery to be discharged by 50%. Even with this indicator, there may not be enough power to start the engine.
2. Cylinder wear. A worn-out engine cannot run perfectly, so it is not surprising that new engines have insufficient cylinder compression. In combination with other factors, this can lead to flooded candles.
3. Old spark plugs. It is not for nothing that this part is consumable and requires regular monitoring and, if necessary, replacement. If you do not change the spark plugs for a long time, then defects appear on them, which can prevent spark formation, which is so necessary to start the engine.
Cherie amulet won't start, starter turns
The starter turns, but the engine does not start
There can be quite a few reasons for this behavior of a car. The main ones are listed below. We have divided them into two categories. First, let's look at those that any beginner can handle:
Human factor
: You forgot to turn off the anti-theft, which blocks, for example, only the fuel pump. The exhaust pipe is clogged. Kind people put a rag or a potato in it, or maybe you just drove into a snowdrift - there are many options. The exhaust pipe must be freed.
All of the above, in general, is not a breakdown, and can be solved in no time. Now let’s look at the reasons associated with a technical malfunction: If the starter turns very slowly, then the cause may be the oil in the engine that has thickened in the cold. Or maybe it’s a discharged battery after a long stay or its terminals are heavily oxidized. In this case, the voltage of the on-board network may drop so much that the engine control unit refuses to work. Well, everything is clear here: the oil should be filled according to the season, the battery should be charged or replaced. Something has frozen - water in the gas line, diesel fuel in the tank or filter. Look for a warm box! The fuel pump is faulty. This is easy to verify, unless you are trying to start the car near a busy and noisy highway. If the environment is quiet, then a sensitive ear can detect the absence of the characteristic buzzing of the fuel pump during starter operation. In the best case, poor contact in the circuit is to blame; in the worst case, you will have to replace the pump. The flywheel crown rotates. This sometimes happened on cars of previous years, up to the VAZ-2109. You can hear that the Bendix is engaged with the ring, and the ring rotates on the flywheel with a squeal. The flywheel is about to be replaced.
The starter does not engage with the ring
. Reason: wear of parts, chipped teeth, etc. When you try to start, you hear grinding teeth. Get ready to replace the ring gear or flywheel.
Bendix stuck
. Whether its drive failed, or the Bendix itself, it doesn’t matter. You can hear the starter motor spinning at high speeds, but there is no further attempt to crank the engine. Get ready to repair or replace the starter itself.
Failure of the ignition system in gasoline cars
. We check everything - spark plugs, coils, wiring, etc. The glow plugs of a diesel car do not work. The problem may be in the control unit, as well as in the power relay. The candles themselves should also be checked - you will have to tinker with this.
Timing belt shattered
. It’s easy to feel: it’s easy for the starter to turn. If you're lucky (the pistons don't meet the valves), it's enough to replace the belt; if not, then half the engine.
The timing belt jumped several teeth, disrupting the correct valve timing. Again, in the best case, you will need to return the belt to its place, but in the worst case, you will face expensive repairs. Increased resistance to rotation of the crankshaft: scuffing on shafts, bearing shells, parts of the cylinder-piston group, deformation of shafts. Check if the engine can be cranked when pushing the vehicle with the manual transmission in top gear. With an automatic transmission, you will have to try to turn the engine using the bolt securing the auxiliary drive pulley. If the engine can be turned over relatively easily, then the search for the cause will need to be continued.
Seized alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor
. A faulty unit prevents the engine from turning. To check, you can first see if the belt is straining excessively when trying to crank the engine. If your suspicions are confirmed, you can remove the auxiliary drive belt and try to drive to the service station under your own power. Of course, this will only work on cars where the coolant pump rotates the timing belt. With a non-working pump and no coolant circulation, even a cold engine will quickly boil. They tried to steal your car at night, but something went wrong. As a result, the attackers dug around, broke something and disappeared in disgrace. Here, without diagnostics at a service station, the problem cannot be solved.
If the starter turns, but the engine does not start, first of all you should check the power supply and ignition systems. Please note that all these checks should only be performed when the starter turns smoothly without jerking. Otherwise (jerks when the starter operates or clicks instead of the usual buzzing), the problem should be looked for, first of all, in the starter itself.
Checking the fuel system should be performed sequentially - from the fuel pump to the injector (carburetor):
1. If you have an injector, then when you turn on the ignition, you should hear the buzzing of an electric fuel pump in the cabin. If there is no buzzing, it means either the fuel pump motor is burnt out or there is no voltage to it. Therefore, it is necessary to check the fuel pump itself, as well as its fuse.
2. With carburetor cars, everything is a little more complicated: the fuel pump is driven by the camshaft, so to check you will have to remove the end of the hose from the carburetor inlet fitting or the fuel pump outlet fitting. If you pump the manual pump lever several times, gasoline should come out of the fitting or hose.
3. To check the presence of gasoline in the injector rail, press the valve of the fitting for connecting the pump: gasoline should flow from there.
4. Be sure to check if the fuel filter is clogged. Perhaps the engine simply does not have enough fuel, so it does not start.
5. Another reason why the starter turns but the car does not start is a clogged throttle valve.
After completing all the steps described above, you can try to start the car again. If the starter still turns, but the car does not start, then you need to move on to checking the ignition system.
1. First, you should unscrew the spark plug and check for a spark. To do this, you need to put a high-voltage wire on the switched-off spark plug, touch the spark plug skirt to the metal part of the engine and turn the engine using the starter (you will need an assistant for this). If there is a spark, then the spark plug is working.
2. If there is no spark in a fuel-injected car, then the problem is in the ignition module.
3. If there is no spark in the carburetor engine, then you should check the ignition coil. Pull out the central wire from the distributor cover, place its end 5 mm from the metal part of the engine (without touching) and ask an assistant to crank the engine with the starter. If there is no spark, the coil is faulty.
4. If there is a spark and the ignition coil is working properly, you should remove the distributor cover and look for any defects under it (carbon deposits, cracks, etc.).
There are times when all these checks are not enough, and the car owner has to carry out deeper checks to identify the reason that the starter turns but the engine does not start. Reasons why this could be include:
1. Burnt fuse. This doesn’t happen often, but it’s still worth checking the integrity of the fuses in the blocks.
2. Corrosion on any of the electrical parts.
3. Condensation under the hood. There have been cases when the car did not start precisely because of excessive moisture under the hood.
Technical parameters Chery Amulet 1.6 / Chery Amulet in the back (A15) 4 doors. sedan with an 87 hp engine, 5 manual transmission, produced from 2006 to 2010.
Chery amulet no spark on candles
Content
Your vehicle is equipped with a high energy microprocessor ignition system (MPI). A voltage of about 40,000 V is supplied to the high-voltage wires, and although at low current strength it is not life-threatening, a possible electric shock when checking the ignition system can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, if you handle a high-voltage wire with the ignition on, use a thick rubber glove or, as a last resort, pliers with insulated handles.
Before checking the ignition system, place the gear shift lever in neutral and leave the parking brake on.
1. With the ignition off, check the integrity and fit of the high-voltage wires in the ignition coil sockets.
2. Check the serviceability of the ignition coil (see “Checking the ignition coil”).
3. If the ignition coil low voltage circuit is normal, check for spark at the spark plugs. Remove the high voltage wire from any spark plug. Insert a spare spark plug into the end of the wire and press its metal part against the vehicle's ground (for example, against the intake pipe). Have an assistant turn the engine crankshaft with the starter.
Reliable contact of the spark plug body with ground is mandatory, since if an additional spark gap appears that is larger than the gap between the spark plug electrodes, damage to the engine control system unit or the high-voltage circuit of the ignition coil is possible.
Carry out this check for no more than five seconds so as not to damage the exhaust gas converter if gasoline that has not burned in the engine cylinders gets into it.
4. If there is no spark, replace the high-voltage wires with new ones. You can first try to install new, but proven ones, from a “working” machine.
5. If after replacing the wires a spark does not appear, replace the ignition coil (see “Removing and installing the ignition coil”). If there is a spark, but the engine does not start, replace the spark plugs with new ones. You can also first try to install non-new, but proven ones from a “working” machine.
6. If after this the engine does not start, check the serviceability of the engine management system (see “Fuel injection system malfunctions”).
As you know, for an engine to operate, two conditions are necessary: the presence of fuel and a spark to ignite it. In cases where the spark disappears, starting the power plant becomes impossible.
This applies to a situation where the spark disappears completely, but there may be no spark on individual cylinders, when the engine begins to trip, there is an unstable start, a decrease in dynamics and power against the background of increased fuel consumption.
The situations are different, as are the troubleshooting paths.
9 reasons why there is no spark at all:
Spark plug
The electrodes of the spark plug may become covered with an oil coating, carbon deposits may appear, sometimes completely closing the gap between the electrodes, an insulator breakdown may occur, the electrodes will burn out and the spark plug will fail.
Ignition coil
There may be an interturn short circuit in the ignition coil or a winding break.
Distributor distributor
The distributor may have faulty contacts, a Hall sensor, a broken slider, or a crack in the cover.
Egnition lock
The contact group in the ignition switch may be faulty (burning of contacts, melting of the plastic protrusion that controls the switching of contacts.