How to soundproof doors?

Vibroplast — vibration-isolating material with good flexibility and elasticity. It consists of a self-adhesive base, vibration-absorbing polymer and aluminum foil. Vibroplast, like bimasts, has its own distinctive properties:

M1 - 1.5mm / 3.5 kg/m2;

M2 - 2.3mm / 3.8 kg/m2;

Silver - 2 mm / 2.5 kg/m2;

Gold - 2mm / 2.5 kg/m2.

Noise insulation Vibroplast Silver
Vizomat PB-2 / PB-3.5 is a vibration-absorbing material with an adhesive base. The main component is bitumen, which, together with foamed polymer, better absorbs vibration from metal body elements. Vizomat MP is a material with an aluminum foil coating that improves its vibration-absorbing properties.

Soundproofing Vizomat

Sound-absorbing materials are used to isolate extraneous sounds. They are based on foamed (porous) fabric - polyethylene. Depending on the properties and qualities of a given insulator, they are available with or without foil coating. “Accent” (open-cell structure) and “isoton” (coated with a metallized film) are the main representatives of this group.

The “advantages” include high thermal insulation properties, since noise and sound insulation substances have low thermal conductivity.

Soundproofing materials are necessary to isolate your vehicle from outside noise. They are a secondary material and are used after vibration isolators. The main representatives of sound insulation, which are based on polyethylene foam and an adhesive base, are:

Sound insulation of car door frames

Soundproofing car doors with your own hands is a process that won’t take much time. It requires patience and a small number of tools:

a set of screwdrivers for disassembling the door trim;
construction hairdryer;
construction knife or scissors;
degreaser/solvent;
stitching roller;
noise and vibration insulation material.

Proper sound insulation of car doors

You also need to decide which Shumka to choose. It depends on what result you want to achieve:

improving audio quality;
removing squeaks and vibrations from metal body elements for greater comfort.

The above will determine what kind of car door soundproofing will be used:

minimal;
standard;
maximum.

Sound insulation levels

Let's consider the option of standard door processing. It requires:

disassemble the door, namely, remove the door trim, protective film (if present) in order to gain full access to all necessary surfaces;
then treat the internal surfaces with a solvent or degreaser so that no grease, dirt or moisture remains on them;
after that, the first layer of vibration-insulating material vibroplast M1 is glued to the inside of the door;
The next stage of the work is applying a layer of sound insulation. It could be splen or accent.

We recommend gluing the vibroplast in horizontal strips and slightly overlapping each other:

the technological holes on the door are sealed with aluminum foil cut out in the required shape with a slight overlap (“Viek”);
After this, vibration insulation (vibroplast M1) is glued onto the aluminum foil. The result is one glued surface consisting of two layers.

When performing all operations, the main thing is not to disrupt the correct operation of all rods and cables, as well as electrical wiring.

The third option is maximum sound insulation of car doors.

This kind of soundproofing of car doors is used when you plan to install a powerful speaker system with good midbass in the doors. In this case, the doors must be prepared for such speakers. External noise is no longer the main goal. Although with this treatment you are guaranteed to get rid of most of them.

– As the first layer, on the outer panel, you can use a vibration-absorbing material 3 mm thick (shumoff m3), but not thicker, so as not to make the doors too heavy.

– You can glue a sheet of noise-insulating material with a waterproof adhesive layer on top (shumoff p4, p8).

– Technological holes in the inner panel can be covered with special adhesive-based aluminum foil, and a hard vibration 2-3 mm thick can be rolled on top.

– On top - noise-insulating material, thickness 4-5 (splen, shumoff p4).

Soundproofing car door trim

We also recommend not to forget about sound and vibration insulation of car door trim:

It is necessary to check it and fill all joints of the part’s skin with sealant (you can also use hot glue) so that there are no additional noises and creaks.
The next step is to cover the inner surface of the skin with sound-absorbing material. For this you can use Bitoplast.

Soundproofing door trim

All that remains to be done is to assemble the car door, and you can test the results of the work. The materials for sound and noise insulation listed in the article can be used not only for doors, but also for the entire body.

Source: okuzove.ru

How to make a door noise yourself correctly

Do-it-yourself soundproofing of car doors is the choice of most car owners.

The fact is that such work is quite simple and does not require complex technical skills. The procedure is carried out to reduce external noise and vibrations of the car body itself, which are inevitable during operation. The latter is especially true if you plan to install a powerful audio system in the car.

Which material to choose

Modern industry produces a variety of materials for noise and vibration insulation. Some car owners prefer to use cheaper industrial materials, but they usually do not withstand prolonged intense vibration. Therefore, the priority choice is specialized absorbent materials intended for use in vehicles. All of them are divided into two large groups:

sound absorbers;
vibration dampers.

The structure of noise absorbers (vibrotone, splen) is cellular. In this case, the cells are not located in even rows, but chaotically. Sound waves entering them dissipate and subside. Additional insulation is the aluminum coating of the materials.

Vibration dampers (vibroplast, vizomat) are represented by heavy compositions based on bitumen and foamed polymers. In this case, noise and vibration insulation of car doors is ensured due to the tight fit of the layer of polymer material to the metal and the damping of natural vibrations.

Proper soundproofing of car doors involves the use of both types of insulation. In this case, the thickness of the layers and the location of their application depend on the required level of noise absorption. So, if work is carried out in order to somewhat reduce the level of noise coming from the street, an average or minimal protective coating is sufficient. To install audio systems, protection from extraneous sounds should be maximum.

Which door designs provide good sound insulation?

The best type of door, in terms of soundproofing properties, is a design with a multilayer structure. At the same time, entrance doors that are made of the same material can even increase the noise level. This especially applies to metal products. This is due to the physical properties of metal, which, unlike wood, is a good conductor of sound waves and can create a resonance effect.

Door soundproofing table.

Preparing for work

Before starting work, you should prepare the car: remove door trims, protective films, remnants of old sound insulation or anti-corrosion coating. In general, there is no need to remove the window regulators and door locks. However, to ensure comfortable working conditions, it is recommended to do this. ” alt=””> The internal surfaces of the doors are cleaned of dirt and dust. Areas where rust is present are cleaned to bare metal. Taking into account the fact that such places are hidden from view, they can be treated with a rust converter and anti-corrosion mastic. Sound insulation cannot be installed on rusty areas.

Before installing sound insulation, all surfaces on which materials will be glued should be degreased with special compounds, gasoline or alcohol. Pasting begins only after the surfaces have completely dried.

Installation of sound insulation

In the maximum version, the first layer of vibration insulation is glued to the inner surface of the outer layer of the door. It is recommended to glue the material in long strips, with a slight overlap on each other. The entire accessible surface is glued.

The second layer is a sound absorber. It should be installed in the widest possible layers. The result is a two-layer coating that dampens vibration and traps sound waves.

For better insulation, the inner layer of the door is treated in the same way. In this case, the technological holes in the doors are sealed with special aluminum foil, on top of which layers of material are applied. When carrying out processing, you should take into account the trajectory of the lock’s cables and drives.

The door trim itself is also treated. All its joints must be filled with sealant. Afterwards, the inner surface of the skin is glued with a noise-absorbing coating. This allows you to avoid squeaks from the trim itself, which sometimes occur on budget models of cars.

Soundproofing an apartment's interior door

Many people like silence in all rooms, and in large families this is sometimes a necessity. Therefore, it is worth saying a few words about the soundproofing of doors inside the apartment. To prevent noise from penetrating into the room, it is necessary to install a special threshold that is combined with the closed canvas. It is advisable to seal the box with a rubber seal. In some cases, the door is paneled.

If silence in a certain room is a priority, then it is best to immediately install a solid door. Pay attention to the position of the door leaf; often due to distortions, cracks appear that allow noise into the room.

Increasing the sound insulation of the entrance or interior door of an apartment today is not difficult. It is enough to have all the necessary tools and choose quality material. Today on the construction market you can find a lot of decent soundproofing materials that will allow you to enjoy silence at any time of the day and under any conditions.

Pros and cons of sound insulation

Like any other modification that distinguishes a car from the factory design, door noise has its positive and negative sides. The advantages of sound insulation include:

significant increase in car comfort;
when selling your car, you can value it higher than similar offers;
powerful speakers can be installed in the doors;
the doors become heavier, as a result of which they close softer and more solidly, without making extraneous sounds.

The list of negative aspects of vibration and noise insulation is shorter:

doors made heavier by insulation are more likely to sag, requiring repair or replacement of hinges;
Some drivers may make mistakes when operating such a car due to poor audibility of external sounds (the driver did not hear the signal of a neighboring car and got into an accident).

Perhaps this is where the shortcomings of sound insulation end. The question of how to soundproof car doors is simple. Therefore, if there is desire, financial capabilities and a certain amount of adventurism, any driver who knows how to use the simplest tool can perform this manipulation on his own vehicle.

Source: znanieavto.ru

Shvi doors

In this article I will tell you how I made a door lock on my Peugeot 308, and in the next article I will talk about how I chose an AHD DVR. In the end, I decided to make noise and vibration insulation on my Peugeot 308. At the moment, all five doors are ready. I apologize in advance for the not entirely detailed photo report - I was so fascinated by the process that I forgot to even think about photographs. But still, we managed to take a few photos:

1. These are devices for dismantling the casing - by the way, a very convenient thing. Costs about 700 rubles. 2. For the work I used materials from the company Standardplast: silver, accent and bitoplast.

3. And here is a little procedure for disassembling the door. I won’t talk about this in detail, since there is a lot of information about this fascinating process on the Internet without me. I unscrewed the screws:

I unscrewed the screws inside the handle and removed it:

Removed the trim from the door handle:

Tore off the foam rubber material:

I was shocked by the harness that fits the speaker. Look, it was covered in mold!

Remove the trim from the door handle

When I removed the factory speaker, I was a little discouraged by how budget-friendly it was. But in fairness, I note that it works surprisingly well.

To identify the cause of mold, you need to look inside the door:

We tear off this foam rubber) We remove the standard speaker, and we are surprised at how cheap it is. However, he still plays well

Interior of the door

Inner part of the door. Wow, there's also some dirt lurking here. A little information about the front door. In the same way, I unscrewed the screws, removed the handle cover and started unscrewing the screws.

Without

Removed foam material

I covered the doors with silver and rolled them up. The interior skins are covered with bitoplast. While removing the casings, I broke three self-tapping screws of the bug. Therefore, I advise you to purchase more of them; I personally purchased them from the official. So, let's get to the main point. You may ask: was the game worth the candle? Does it make sense to do ShVI yourself? Friends, this is definitely worth the trouble! The result exceeded all expectations, the doors close smoothly, the interior is quiet! I can’t say that the car is quiet and blissful, but even professionals won’t give you a guarantee of absolute silence. I urge everyone who is still hesitating not to put this matter off and get the doors stitched as soon as possible - it’s worth it! As for the money spent, it took me about 4 thousand rubles for all the pleasure. Thank you for attention. Good luck on the roads and easy repairs!

Do-it-yourself soundproofing of a car door

Soundproofing a car door is the main step if the owner wants to reduce noise and vibration in the cabin. This is explained by the fact that the area of all doors is large in relation to other parts of the body. Soundproofing doors is carried out in several stages. It is not an overly complicated process. A car enthusiast can do it himself. The construction market offers a large selection of necessary materials. The cost of sound insulation is not excessive, but the costs incurred will improve travel comfort and extend the life of the vehicle.

The second option is average sound insulation of car doors.

We can say that such soundproofing of car doors is optimal in terms of price/quality ratio. This method uses more special materials, and they are mounted a little differently. This allows you to seriously reduce noise from the road, and also makes it possible to install acoustics in the door and get good results from it.

The first layer, on the outer panel of the door, should use a vibration absorber 2 mm thick (vibroplast from StP, Shumoff M2). And in the place opposite the speaker, you can glue a 3 mm sheet (Shumoff M3). It is also advisable to add an acoustic lens here. You can glue soundproofing material on top of the “vibra”, or you can do without it. There is no consensus on this matter.

In order for the speakers to play well, you need to make something similar to acoustic speakers from the doors. To do this, you need to roll a rigid vibration absorber (for example, Vizomat MP) onto the outer panel, closing the technological holes.

The door cards themselves need to be glued with a thin vibration absorber, a thickness of 2 mm is suitable (vibroplast silver, gold, Shumoff M2). And then cover the entire inner surface with a noise absorber 5-10 mm thick (bitoplast from StP, sealant from Shumoff).

Nature of noise

The car doors are made of thin metal. At speed when moving quickly, they vibrate from air currents, fluctuate when the road is uneven, and resonate when the speaker systems are turned on. Thin metal allows sounds inside the cabin that come from passing cars towards or next to the car. Travel noise is also created by various elements of the car itself, vibrating when the vehicle moves:

engine;
transmission;
pendants;
exhaust mechanisms;
chassis;
door seals.

Sound insulation muffles sounds from outside the cabin.
This type of noise is called “structural”. Its value depends on the type of vehicle design.

Why is sound insulation needed?

In cars of expensive brands, the problem of isolation from extraneous sounds is solved by the manufacturer. Cheaper models have minimal protection.

Driving requires maximum attention, tension, and quick response to the constantly changing situation on the road. Extraneous sounds cause additional fatigue and dulled reactions, which can lead to a road accident. Acoustic speakers are often installed on car doors. Their rattling sharply worsens the quality of the music being listened to.

The following effect is expected from car sound insulation:

Reducing extraneous noise.
Quieter door closing. This is a consequence of an increase in their mass.
Improving the sound of installed audio systems.

An additional bonus is better maintenance of a comfortable temperature.

Self-soundproofing

Correct soundproofing of a car door with your own hands depends on the purpose of this operation. Based on this, there are four options:

Minimum. Solves the problem of reducing extraneous sounds coming from the street. It is the most budget-friendly. The material is glued to the outer side of the door.
Average. The best option, which is inexpensive and of sufficient quality. In addition to reducing street noise, it allows you to install a speaker system in the car door.
Maximum. Used when planning the installation of an amplified acoustic system.
Extreme. Designed for cases where powerful acoustics are installed in the doors.

Each of these options can be done independently. The choice also depends on the financial capabilities of the car enthusiast.

Selection of noise and vibration insulation materials

When choosing materials for sound insulation, you need to pay attention to their technical characteristics. All materials are divided into the following main groups:

Vibration dampers.
Sound insulators.
Sound absorbers.
Anti-squeaks.

Preparing sound insulation

Vibration damping materials are bituminous, mastic and combined. The main indicator of their effectiveness is the mechanical loss coefficient (MLC). The most suitable materials are those with a CMP range of 0.8-0.9. Sound insulators are laid on top of vibration dampers. Sound absorbers have a highly porous structure. The absorption coefficient of sound waves by them can reach 95%. Anti-squeaks reduce the sounds made by machine parts.

When a car owner decides to soundproof the doors themselves, it is recommended to use the following materials:

Vibroplast Silver. It is an aluminum foil with self-adhesive capabilities. The advantage is resistance to unwanted moisture, mechanical stress, and corrosion.
Vibroplast Gold. Has improved characteristics.
Bimast Bomb Premium. It has the highest CMP among bitumen-mastic materials.
Splen. Resistant to temperature changes and atmospheric conditions. A modern alternative is Accent Premium, which is designed specifically to isolate doors from vibration and noise.

This list is not exhaustive. It is possible to buy a kit for soundproofing car doors.

Preparation

Before you begin the noise and vibration insulation process, you should purchase the following materials and tools:

screwdrivers needed to disassemble doors;
metal scissors;
construction hair dryer;
stitching roller;
degreaser;
materials for vibration and noise insulation.

Screwdrivers will be needed to carry out the first stage - disassembling the doors. To gain access to the internal parts, the upholstery must be removed. When removing the mounting screws, it is difficult to remember which one was in a particular hole, which will cause difficulties during assembly. The recommendation is to use tape to secure the unscrewed screws near their holes. Disassembly of the window regulator and opening mechanism is not required. These elements will not interfere with the sound insulation process.

Procedure for installing materials

Soundproofing installation

How to properly soundproof the doors of your car depends on the option chosen. In standard processing, the first step is to disassemble the door. To gain access to existing surfaces, remove the casing and protective film, if any. The process is carried out in two stages:

Treatment of internal surfaces from the cabin side.
Treatment of surfaces facing outwards.

Before starting the soundproofing process, surfaces must be treated with a special compound to degrease. You should make sure that there are no traces of grease, rust, or dirt left. When cleaning, make sure that the car's paint is not scratched, otherwise corrosion may appear in this area over time. You must work with gloves so as not to cut yourself on the existing sharp corners of the parts.

When soundproofing internal surfaces, for better acoustic sound, it is necessary to close the existing holes. For large sizes, fiberglass or sheet aluminum are used. Then the first layer of vibration-proofing material is glued on. You should first heat the sheet using a hair dryer. After gluing, you need to roll it over it with a mounting roller. It is recommended to paste the material in horizontal stripes, overlapping. The next stage is applying a soundproofing layer. Then the outer surface of the door is insulated. When performing the process, it is important not to disturb electrical wiring, cables and other elements.

After assembling the doors, you need to test the results of your work.

Proper sound insulation can reduce extraneous sounds inside the car. The process is not complicated and can be done with your own hands.

Source: tolkavto.ru

Soundproofing car doors

SOUND INSULATION OF CAR DOORS ACCORDING TO THE “PREMIUM” OPTION IN THE “ANTI-NOISE” STUDIO

WHY DO YOU NEED SOUNDPROOFING DOORS AND WHAT DOES IT GIVE YOU?

Proper sound insulation of car doors is the first point in the program of step-by-step sound insulation of the interior. This is due to the fact that the total area of all doors is quite large and is the largest among all other body elements. And the metal of the doors and roof of a car is the thinnest and lacks stiffening ribs. This thin metal not only resonates when the acoustics are operating, vibrates from the impact of oncoming air flows at speed, and vibrates along with the rest of the car body from road unevenness. It also freely allows noise from passing cars and other noise from outside to enter the cabin. After all, it is much easier for a sound wave to pass through the thin metal of the door and the same thin plastic trim than through the more massive glass of a car!

Complete and high-quality vibration and noise insulation treatment of doors can really reduce the noise level in the car interior! You will no longer clearly hear the noise of cars standing next to you in a traffic jam or passing by; the cabin will become much more comfortable and cozy, because by closing the noise-insulating door you are truly reliably separated from the outside world in the cabin of your car.

In addition, as a pleasant “bonus”, you will receive a significant improvement in the sound of the acoustics (even standard ones), because the door will become more rigid and there will be much fewer holes in it, and the sound of the acoustics will not easily escape through the outer metal of the door.

That is why soundproofing car doors is the most important stage of our work!

PRICE:

10,000 - 15,000 rub. for 4 doors

NUMBER OF LAYERS: 3-4 layers

WEIGHT: 1.3-1.8 kg per door

HOW DO WE SOUND INSULATE DOORS?

Obviously, to soundproof the doors, they need to be disassembled. To disassemble the door, first of all, its plastic covering is dismantled. There are usually several pieces of standard parts on the casing.

However, these pieces, meager in area and thickness, are not always enough to protect the interior from noise, and the door trim from rattling and creaking. In addition, the casings are sometimes made of such thin plastic that they rattle and resonate even at a low volume of the audio system. In this case, we apply small pieces of STP Silver vibration isolator to flat areas of plastic. This material, due to its weight and ductility, will significantly reduce the resonant frequency of thin plastic. You can use both STP AERO and any other vibration isolator with a thickness of 2-3 mm.

Since the free space under the skin is usually enough to apply materials of considerable thickness. The only requirement is that the material should not be rigid, so as not to push the skin away from the metal of the door in places where they fit tightly. Therefore, we apply a soft and viscous sound absorber Biplast Premium, 20 mm thick, to the entire area of the skin. The material is self-adhesive, embossed, soft, airy and effective over a wide frequency range. We leave holes for fasteners, wiring plugs and a speaker.

Now we can put the trim aside and move directly to soundproofing the door itself... And here the nuances begin. After all, the design of the doors of different cars can differ significantly. Here are the most common layouts.

The easiest to disassemble is the door design with holes in the inner metal, through which there is access to the outer metal of the doors. This door design is common on cars from Toyota, Suzuki, Subaru, Chevrolet, BMW and many, many others. A door with this design is easier to disassemble, but more difficult to glue, because through the holes, with their not always convenient location and sharp metal edges, full access to the door volume is sometimes possible. The holes are usually covered with factory-made polyethylene. It serves primarily as a vapor and moisture insulation for the interior, because there is very often moisture inside the doors. This can be seen even in the photo.

We remove the polyethylene, dismantle the audio system speaker and gain access to the volume of the door...

It is through these holes that materials are applied to the outer metal of doors of this design. However, along with the indicated layout, another car door design is often found. Often, after disassembling the door, you can see not the film and large “windows” under it, but a plastic shield that completely blocks access to the inside of the door. This design is found on Mazda, Kia, Hyundai, Jeep and many others.

This shield may also not be plastic, but metal. This door design is found on many Mercedes, Volkswagen, Volvo, Ford cars and the already mentioned Kia cars (lately Kia's transition to plastic shields is obvious). Sometimes this metal part is even riveted to the metal of the door with rivets, but these are quite rare cases (for example, the Skoda Octavia A5 and some Mercedes cars).

In this case, you need to dismantle the glass or hang it in the opening, and then remove the shield, gaining access to the volume of the door. Disassembly, of course, takes some time and requires skills and preparation, but all this is paid off by the convenience of gluing and the ability to apply the material to the maximum area, carefully and aesthetically!

For maximum clarity, we will use the example of such a door to show the technology of applying our materials to external metal, because the gluing scheme is the same for doors of any design. First, the metal is degreased and dried. This is a prerequisite for proper sound insulation, and it is precisely this that ensures reliable adhesion of materials and the durability of the doors and car body, because when applying materials to a dirty and non-degreased surface, air cavities will inevitably remain under the material, which will subsequently lead to the formation of condensation and corrosion in them. We degrease the metal with a special anti-silicone (for example, Body 770 or Novol 780). So, we apply the first layer to a clean, degreased and dried surface. Its task is to dampen vibrations in the thin metal of the door. Therefore, the first layer on the door is a lightweight and effective vibration insulator STP AERO. With a thickness of only 2 mm, it has a mechanical loss coefficient KMP = 0.33, and the StP Aero material is effective in a wide temperature range, from -10 C to +30 C. Aero, like any other vibration isolator, must be carefully rolled to the metal surface with a hard roller, only then will it work as efficiently as possible. There is no need to apply the material to door reinforcements, double metal and other elements with a low resonant frequency (hard and “deaf” to knocking). There is no need to seal the drainage holes at the bottom of the door; it is better to step back a few centimeters from the edges of the door to avoid overlaps, moisture getting into them and materials peeling off. The optimal coverage area of a thin-walled element with vibration-isolating material is 70%. You can do more, but the effect from this will no longer significantly increase.

Now you can proceed to applying the second layer. There is usually enough space in the door volume, so even material of considerable thickness can be applied there. Therefore, it would be wrong to neglect this layer. However, there are also limitations. As mentioned above, moisture often gets into the volume of the door: during rain and washing, water flows through the cracks of the side windows, moisture from the warm air saturated with it quickly condenses on the cold metal. And that is why the soundproofing material for the second layer must have a moisture-resistant adhesive layer and not absorb water. After numerous experiments, the following material was developed: this is the STP Accent Premium sound absorber with a thickness of 10 mm. The material has a moisture-resistant sealant instead of an adhesive layer, and also has a closed-cell structure that does not allow it to absorb moisture. The question arises: how can a closed-cell material work to absorb sound, since in this case it works as a sound insulator?! However, everything is quite simple. StP Accent Premium undergoes needle punching, which opens up some of the cells on the surface of this material. And subsequently, the front surface is covered with a film that prevents moisture from entering the open cells, but does not prevent sound waves from entering these cells. So, we apply a second layer to the outer metal of the doors.

Now that two full layers of effective materials have been applied to the outer metal of the doors, we install the plastic or metal shield in place and fix the glass. If the shield is plastic, it is usually made of thick and massive material, has many ribs and bends, and it is on it that the guides, window lift motor and other parts and components are fixed. All this gives it additional rigidity, which means it does not need vibration isolation. If the shield is metal, covering 100% of the shield surface is not only impractical, but also harmful. After all, then the technological openings for removing the glass, all the wiring and fasteners of the shield itself are closed. Thus, if you subsequently have to disassemble the door for repairs (problems with locks, power windows, body repairs, glass replacement, etc.), you may encounter problems. Therefore, it is enough to apply a vibration isolator to flat areas of the shield and close all existing through holes with the same material.

If the door has a design with “windows”, and not a panel one, then we replace the standard polyethylene film with a vibration isolator, covering all the holes with it. In this case, if you need to access the door, you will need to slightly warm up the vibration isolator and remove it in the desired location of the door.

Now we can replace the plastic door trim that we processed earlier, and after final assembly and checking the functionality of all circuits (lighting, power windows, locks, etc.), the soundproofing of the doors is complete!

In the following articles we will tell you about soundproofing other elements of your car using our technology!

You can learn more about our car soundproofing technology from the videos filmed in the ANTI-NOISE !

If you have any questions, just call the nearest ANTI-NOISE ! You will find contacts of all our studios in the corresponding section of our website - “CONTACTS” . We will be happy to help you!

Why do you need car soundproofing?

Reducing noise and vibration levels in a car (SHVI) is necessary in order to minimize the sounds emitted by the elements of the car. As the vehicle moves, they vibrate, creating noise that is unpleasant to the owner.

If the car is equipped with acoustics, then the excess noise will not only interfere with driving, but will also prevent you from comfortably listening to your favorite musical compositions.

Soundproofing car doors will help improve the acoustic properties of the interior

The symbiosis of irritating noise and the tense state of the motorist leads to poor health and unsafe driving. A person’s reaction becomes dulled, the ability to clearly respond to emergency and difficult situations decreases, which can cause an accident.

If other parts of the car need additional soundproofing for the reasons described above, then soundproofing the doors is designed to improve the quality of the musical accompaniment of the trip. The fact is that it is in them that acoustic speakers are most often installed.

It is not appropriate for a modern person to confuse a cacophony of rattling sounds with real high-quality music.

What effect does car soundproofing have?

Installing loudspeakers in vehicle doors is a classic version of the “front” installation scheme. In other words, front-type acoustics are installed here, since it is not possible to place them in the A-pillars on all cars, and the dashboard sometimes does not meet the required tasks.

In addition, you still need to think about tweeters (tweeters), which, together with front and rear acoustics, create the effect of a single orchestra of cool music in the car interior.

So, thanks to the additional door inspection, the following issues can be resolved:

eliminate unnecessary noise that interferes with listening to music;
correctly install the front speakers.

Among the disadvantages of carrying out door welding, one can note only their weight. However, if everything is done correctly, using lightweight, albeit expensive materials with the greatest absorption effect, the doors will not sag over time.

The diagram shows that proper sound insulation of doors is an important part of the overall soundproofing of the car

Is it worth making noise on the doors? Soundproofing car doors. Material, correct Shumka.

The operation of a car is inextricably linked with the generation of noise, which has a detrimental effect on the condition of the human body.

Soundproofing is carried out in stages. By taking care of only one part of the car, you cannot achieve excellent performance, but it is easy to improve your skills. It is better to start work with anti-noise treatment of doors, moving on to the trunk, hood, roof and floor.

A building's acoustic certification is issued after tests have been carried out in each room. The result obtained is an average value and an indicator that will highlight the class of acoustic insulation. The expected class is four: the first indicates a quieter house, and the fourth indicates a very noisy house.

Soundproofing of buildings

Construction is regulated by a framework law and technical regulations and ordinances, which provide guidelines for optimal design. In practice, every home is required by law to guarantee minimum standards of acoustic insulation.

What tools should you prepare:

rolling roller - a simple device, but useful, allowing for high-quality rolling of the material used;
construction hair dryer – indispensable for products whose installation must be accompanied by heating;
scissors are required for cutting, giving parts the optimal shape;
degreasers, solvent for processing and cleaning the working surface of the metal;
knife, screwdriver (may come in handy).

In order to carry out high-quality soundproofing of a car with your own hands, the materials must be selected correctly. The best characteristics attract STP products; the Shumoff company has also proven itself well. You can select other options after first studying the properties.

The law also includes measurements by a competent technician to verify that the house was built within the limits set by law. The Framework Law, which has national significance, states that the task of municipalities is to enforce the rules and adopt rules for the implementation of discipline.

The legislation applies to both new buildings and buildings for renovation projects. The soundproofing of a home also has a strong impact on the economic value of the property: the higher the acoustic comfort, the higher the economic value of the home.

The most common
STP materials are:

Vibroplast (Silver, Gold) is a group of new products that differ in thickness and weight. These are flexible, elastic, vibration-absorbing sheets with a self-adhesive base and a coating of aluminum foil. It is resistant to moisture, has anti-corrosion properties and is easy to install.
BiMast is another series used for vibration isolation. There are 3 types with different effectiveness. Styling requires heating. The structure is multilayer, including a bitumen and rubber composition.
Splen is an excellent sound and heat insulator. May vary in thickness. There is an adhesive base that takes the desired shape well.
Accent - used for sound absorption, characterized by an open-cell structure.
Madeline - represents a group of gasket materials and is a sealant. Fabric is used as a base.

Choosing a garage door is a big decision - it's expensive and rare! Moreover, this is most likely the only automatic door in your home, and it is usually classified as a machine. Cars should be approached with caution - they are convenient, but they can also be dangerous.

It's worth taking some time to choose the right door, the right supplier, and make sure you're not stripping hairs of your second year of warranty. Of course, there is no universal solution for all cases. Like choosing a house or a car, your garage door should best balance your desires and capabilities. Often the main factor when choosing a door is price, or at least most of us are used to starting our selection.

Soundproofing car doors

Car doors are most often subjected to soundproofing treatment. Even after performing a minimum amount of work, there is a reduction in noise and the penetration of extraneous sounds from the outside. By selecting standard and maximum insulation levels, impressive results can be achieved. The main thing is to think step by step how to properly soundproof your car. The process begins with removing the sheathing.

How to choose a garage door?

Sometimes I find it funny to make comparisons between garage doors and light cars, but this is where the analogy makes the most sense.
You know that you can't determine the price of a car without knowing some of the most important features - brand, class, options, etc. Well, garage doors are the same, but most people may not be knowledgeable enough about the details and features of this unpopular issue. We have to choose the type, brand, model, etc. attention, of course, we also pay attention to design, color, additional features - and everything that will make us as happy as possible within a reasonable budget.

The minimum amount of work involves:

Gluing vibration-absorbing sheets to the inside of the door in the area where the speakers are located. The Vibroplast series is suitable. The thickness is selected depending on the characteristics of the metal. The larger the volume of the treated surface, the better. The stiffening ribs are not affected; the need for proper operation of the cables and rods is taken into account.
The next layer should be sound insulation, Accent is suitable. Used to prevent the penetration of extraneous noise, and is also suitable for dissipating sound from speakers. It is glued to vibration isolation, maintaining a distance of 3–4 cm from the drainage holes.
The interior of the cladding requires no less careful work. The joints are treated with hot melt adhesive or sealant. Places most prone to noise generation are covered with a vibration absorber. Finally, the gasket material is applied.

At each stage, it is important to consider the weight of the raw materials used. Excessive weighting can cause the part to sag and require the installation of new hinges. Simpler, thinner products can be used to work on rear doors.

Let's compare the main types of garage doors that come with us. Double-leaf swing doors - sliding gate doors - roller doors - sectional doors. It would be better to compare individual features similar to mobile phone reviews. We're all used to this, aren't we?

We will define some of the most important parameters and we will evaluate them using a six-point system, just like in school. However, we can draw some important conclusions. Do whatever it takes to buy a good garage door! I have quite a bit of experience with various garage door manufacturers, some better than others, not so much. But let me tell you what made me so unconditionally attached to this name. We are a small company that relies heavily on our happy customers!

Work in the luggage compartment

When removing the trim, it is recommended to inspect the gaps between the trim being removed and the body. If the distance is sufficient, you can glue sound insulation. If the indicators are insufficient, this should not be done, as the casing will not fall into place.

You understand that we cannot just sell doors. If installing a sectional section is not possible, consider roller shutters, but let it be with insulated profiles and with an electric motor. Under no circumstances should you trust disreputable suppliers - poor quality materials, especially conical springs, could soon make you regret the "big deal"! If you don't like the idea of roulette, perhaps Berry is right for you? A revolving door is a pretty good solution in terms of price and quality.

Insulating the wheel arches is the first stage of work. BiMast (Bomb) of the greatest thickness is used. When using vibration isolation, it is not recommended to leave gaps between joints.
The floor, the area where the muffler resonator is located, the spare wheel niche, the wings - everything is carefully covered with vibration insulation.
The accent, which provides sound absorption, is applied as the next layer. If necessary, elements are trimmed. If a solid layer interferes with the sheathing device, it is trimmed.
The final layer is soundproofing, applied only to the sound-absorbing base and thermal insulation.

Working with the trunk lid

The process takes a minimum of time - vibration insulation is applied between the stiffeners, and after it - a soundproofing product. Particular attention is paid to the design if a subwoofer is to be installed. You cannot seal the holes provided for ventilation, which also applies to the trunk itself.

This door does not require much maintenance, and if installed correctly, it can operate without problems for decades! If we want to be honest, this would be our last choice for double garage doors. It is enough for me that even in a light wind such a door can be extremely dangerous for you, for your children and ultimately for your car. The question is that the charm of distant discovery is almost impossible here.

It's like a garage door. And don’t forget that under any circumstances the choice is entirely up to you! The choice of internal doors determines the style of the house and the taste of the owners. Naturally, many people are faced with the dilemma of which doors to buy in order to get not only a beautiful vision, but also sufficient functionality in thermal and sound insulation. We will help you with some ideas that you can use when you go to a company or a store.

Subtleties of hood noise insulation

Soundproofing of the hood is carried out according to a similar scheme. Vibroplast is laid first, then Accent. The product is distinguished by thermal insulation properties and resistance to high temperatures, which is important for the engine compartment.

The main idea here is to build the vision you want, whether you're aiming for a modern approach or a retro look. It is wrong to think that internal interior doors are just for beauty. They give you so much more as they isolate outside noise and prevent heat from escaping from the room. This is why it is advisable to conduct an accurate check of the products before purchasing them. If you have any doubts, do not hesitate to consult.

In addition to wooden doors, customers can choose PVC doors that provide different functionality. For example, the harmony of a folding door creates a visual image of more space. Another additional interior design is glass doors, used mainly in retail outlets, offices and institutions. You determine what your needs are.

Anti-noise treatment of the ceiling space

When thinking about whether it is worth soundproofing a car, you need to pay attention to the results that an integrated approach gives. In such a situation, noise treatment of the roof will be useful.

The real hit is the combination of wood and glass in different geometric shapes. The wood piece blends incredibly well with the rest of the furniture in your home, and the glass adds to the more elegant visual result. The glass is transparent or frosted at the request of the users. Prices usually range from 200 to 500 leva depending on the type of product.

We don't need to buy doors from shady Chinese dealers because we risk losing too much. When purchasing interior doors, always request installation. This may be quite difficult for you and the master will advise you. Companies usually offer additional installation services, which are also paid for, and also include this cost for others. Incorrect installation can cause serious problems.

It has a large area, and the material used in production is thin metal. Accordingly, there must be standard insulation. Leave it on or remove it if it doesn’t hold up well. During operation, it may be necessary to increase the rigidity of the panel, depending on the area. The procedure begins with dismantling the finish.

Vibration absorbers are installed first. If reinforcement of the structure is required to prevent resonance, a profile made of perforated steel is used. It is important to go around the stiffening ribs so that the finishing will fall into place.
Accent or Splen provide sound absorption. The first product also has good thermal insulation.
Madeline or Bitoplast is laid as the last layer before covering. The second option is preferable, as it has a sticky base, moisture resistance, and durability.

And that’s all we wanted to write in this article dedicated to the doors of your home. We really hope to be of service to consumers and wish them a successful purchase. Choosing a good door for your home or office requires time and commitment on your part. The market is overloaded with bids, so you need to thoroughly check your options before choosing external and internal doors for your property. Naturally, the main factors to focus on are vision, sustainability and security.

If you are buying a door for a new apartment, you will always focus on stylish, clean lines. When it comes to an older home, you probably want huge wooden doors, whether for the interior or the entrance. Our first choice of doors is to take precise measures from the cashier and the opening radius. The heights, widths and depths of the frames are taken into account, which determines the purchase of doors for the premises. Modern offers come with a team of specialists, without having to deal with unnecessary work that is beyond your control.

How to soundproof a floor?

To work with the floor and engine compartment area, it is necessary to dismantle the upholstery, chairs, and carpet. Proper execution of the work allows you to achieve better performance, minimizing noise from movement on the road surface and impacts of stones on the bottom. The base metal of the car is pre-cleaned and degreased.

Immediately after installation, review the limits and thresholds for possible damage and notify the company if necessary. The latter will resolve the situation in a timely manner, since the original products come with an appropriate guarantee of quality and service.

Determine your budget carefully. Consider how much money you can spend on doors when replacing them. Don't buy cheap products because the latter may harm you. Real exterior and interior doors give you warmth and sound insulation, strength and beauty, and everything else is just an excess of expenses that you shouldn't have to make.

The first step involves gluing the metal surfaces that were covered with factory carpet. This is the area under the dashboard, the feet of the driver and passengers. Attention is paid to the engine compartment area and arches. It is better to use BiMast Bomb (the thickest vibration insulation). To avoid voids, parts are trimmed. The styling process requires warming up.
The area of the engine compartment and arches requires additional use of sound insulation Barrier, Splen. Since vibration isolation alone cannot cope with the load.
Accent is the next layer, used to completely cover the working plane.
Laying the soundproofing membrane is the final stage.

When performing the procedure, it is important to ensure that the maximum area of the metal surface is covered.

By default, exterior doors should be durable and break-resistant, while interior interior doors should enhance the rooms of your home and workplace. In both cases, however, it is based on strength and a solid foundation as the determining parameters.

Typically, customers have a number of questions, such as door manufacturing methods, information about locks and seals, the properties of paints, varnishes and the like. Don't save money when buying doors for your home and office. This would be a big mistake due to the seriousness of the undertaking. Yes, indeed, the market is full of offers, but not all of them are as good as we would like. Imagine the positives and negatives that the doors will bring to you and then enter the market. We give thumbs up and we know you'll make the right choice.

Additional insulation of wheel arches

Sound insulation of the floor, ceiling, doors, hood and trunk is included in an integrated approach. When thinking about how to properly soundproof a car, you should also pay attention to the wheel arches. Their noise insulation will provide increased protection and comfort.

Let's face it - speaker doors are really bad. It is an environment of thin sheet metal and many holes. In addition, the doors are covered with wet barriers, which are a piece of nylon that shakes freely along with the melody of the music.

Despite these drawbacks, if you've decided to buy new speakers or simply want better sound in your car, read on. The original speakers and original sound system in the car have enough power to generate vibrations in the doors, causing annoying slamming and unpleasant noises. What most people don't know is the large power loss of in-door speakers. The thin, unprocessed sheets of the standard make them unsalted. When the speaker moves, the vibrations transmitted to the door leaf lose acoustic power.

The process of working with wheel arches involves:

Dismantling the fender liners, thoroughly cleaning the parts and the inside of the arch.
Laying the Vibroplast product using the Gold series.
Additional anti-gravel treatment is recommended.

Another problem is that the outer shell of the door is too close to the back of the speaker. The echo and reverberation created by the rear sound wave causes distortion and degrades the acoustic performance of the speaker. Try taking a piece of aluminum foil and placing it close to your mouth to speak. Not only do you hear the vibration of the film, but you also hear your voice change. And the door has technical openings. With so many holes in the interior door baffle, you can't expect a mid-bass rattan sound.

Sound wave control solution. The optimal speaker box is made from a solid, non-wavy material that minimizes internal sound reflections. As you can see from the image, the unprepared door is far from this ideal. Using the right materials and techniques, you can restore the lost acoustic performance of your speakers while reducing outside noise levels in your vehicle. When it's quieter, you'll no longer have to turn up the stereo volume to overcome road noise.

Sound insulation of fender liners:

It is necessary to stick Vibroplast (Silver is suitable) on the back side of the element.
Bitoplast will be needed to eliminate squeaks and vibrations.

When such procedures are performed correctly, noise levels in the cabin are reduced. You won't hear any impacts from pebbles while driving. The level of comfort will increase, which is important for the driver and passengers.

Good day everyone, be patient, today I will talk about such useful improvements as Noise, Vibration and Thermal Insulation (hereinafter referred to as ShVI) of the car interior. Owners of a KIA Spectra know that there is almost no sound insulation in their car, and there is none in the doors at all, so after installing normal music, they definitely had to do a shvi. Maybe someone will have a question: “Why is it needed, it seems not bad anyway?” To which I can now answer you: If you are not a demanding driver (for example, a VAZ) and you have a cassette tape recorder and two standard speakers installed in the cabin and you If the noise penetrating into the cabin doesn’t bother you at all, then you don’t need ShVI at all and you can safely scroll through this post in your feed.

Well, if you like good music, comfort and silence in the cabin, then I recommend that you be patient and read the post to the end. In addition to the main effect of reducing noise, the following “advantages” of soundproofing doors can be noted: - doors close more clearly and quietly, due to the increase in weight - the sound quality of the audio system improves - thermal insulation improves, which means that in winter the car interior will cool down longer and faster warm up There is only one minus: - increase in weight and sagging of the door over time. (Although this happens in exceptional cases, when they are too “carried away” by vibration isolation.)

It is also strongly recommended to do door shimming if you have a subwoofer installed in your car, even if it is not very powerful. In this case, the bass from the subwoofer will not come out through the rattling doors and will rock the interior much better. The efficiency of your subwoofer will increase significantly.

Material for about 4 doors: 4 sheets - Bitoplast 5 or 10 (300 RUR sheet) 2 sheets - Splena 4 (260 RUR sheet) 5 sheets - Bimast M1 (Silver) or M2 (Golt) 255 RUR. and 450r. respectively

Process technology using the example of one door:

The whole process consists of layer-by-layer gluing of vibration and noise insulating material, but first you need to disassemble the door and remove all the trim and speakers.

The first layer is vibration isolation.

Doors are not as subject to vibrations as, for example, a motor shield or a floor tunnel. But they are most often the place where frontal acoustics are installed, which causes resonant sounds of metal, so I recommend applying Silver or Gold Vibroplast to the inner front side of the door (the one that is closer to the street), with a pasting surface close to 60-75%... ! Be careful! – do not block ventilation and drainage openings

…

To begin with, be sure to degrease all surfaces to be pasted and do not forget to repeat this procedure later in the process.

We cut off the required piece of Vibroplast, and then, for better contact with the metal, warm it up a little with a hair dryer.

There is no need to glue the entire surface of the outer part of the door from the inside, the main thing is to cover most of the surface, and to avoid bubbles for large pieces, you should draw a diagonal line along the sheet to secure the vibroplast sheet, and then rub it to the sides, be sure to warming up with a hairdryer.

If you plan to install a powerful sound system, then the metal of the inner surface of the door must be covered with the same materials. All technological holes including. Before doing this, I recommend checking the functionality of all lock mechanisms and window regulators, tightening the fasteners and applying lubricant. By closing the holes, you will turn the door into a closed box (or close to it), which will have a positive effect on the sound quality of the acoustics. Due to the too large technical hole at the bottom, I recommend attaching several DIN rails across this hole so that the vibration isolation does not breathe in time with the bass. For more powerful acoustics, you generally need to cover the hole with plywood, as if making a blind speaker out of a door.

Types of ShVI

There are several options for carrying out door inspection. The choice of method depends on the individual preferences of the owner and the level of his acoustic aspirations.

The most harmless method for doors is the minimal version of the “Shumka” procedure. However, it is not suitable for installing acoustic systems, since the essence of such work is to protect the outer panel and use a vibration absorber. In this case, it is possible to reduce the noise level by 30–40 percent.

The average option for carrying out the “Shumka” is considered optimal, if we keep in mind the price/quality ratio. In this case, you will have to use special materials, including acoustic lenses, the installation of which is carried out in a special way. Thanks to the implementation of such shvi, it is possible to eliminate external noise by 60–70 percent, improve the quality of acoustic reproduction, as well as its impact.

Shvi “maximum” is designed for installing a full-fledged acoustic system with powerful capabilities. In this case, the car doors are prepared specifically for the mid-bass speakers that are installed in them.

The task of ShVI “maximum” is not so much to eliminate external noise coming from the road surface, but to prepare an acoustic bed for loudspeakers. When carrying out soundproofing using this method, the door card must be processed.

Extreme sound insulation is aimed at preparing the doors for powerful competition-type acoustics. As you know, today competitions for the best car audio are also very popular all over the world and in Russia. In this case, there is no longer any need to worry about the further condition of the doors. They are sure to sag over time, as they are processed with the thickest and most effective materials.

Shvi “extreme” involves the installation of several sound emitters (speakers) in the door. Their number can reach as many as 20 (including tweeters), depending on the wishes of the owner and the specific car model.

If the “average” version of the “Shumka” can be implemented independently, then only professionals can perform the “extreme” SHVI

The fourth type of sound insulation for car doors is extreme.

This kind of soundproofing of car doors is intended to treat doors under powerful acoustics, the so-called “loud front”. These are systems with which they go to competitions for the volume of front speakers, or for sound pressure. The door is processed with the thickest and most efficient materials. The risk that this will make them too heavy is not taken into account.

– First the door needs to be reinforced. This can be done either with strips of rigid “vibration”, or with aluminum strips, which are glued at small intervals onto the outer panel.

– Then a thick vibration absorber 4 mm thick is rolled between them (bimast bombs, Shumoff Mix F, Shumoff Prof).

– The next layer is soundproofing of car doors or sound absorber with waterproof glue or latex film (sealant). The technological windows on the outer panel are also closed. Here you can use polyester resin or aluminum sheets. They are rolled up from above with a thick “vibra”, 3-4 mm (bimast bombs, shumoff m3, m4). After this, a layer of sound insulator is glued on (splen, shumoff p4).

– The door card is processed with pieces of vibrato to get rid of vibrations and rattling. And underneath it is glued the thickest sound absorber that will fit (for example, sealant A15, A30).

The area covered by the sound absorber depends on how many speakers will be in the door. Since the door card can contain several midbass, “middle”, it is attached to the door hardware with through bolts, and the acoustics are installed later.

Before implementing any option for soundproofing car doors described here, think carefully about which one you need, for your car and purpose. Remember, no matter how well you treat the doors, you cannot do anything with the windows. And a large percentage of noise will enter the cabin through them.

Do-it-yourself Shumka installation

Shvi is the insulation of a car from over-sounds. This procedure is performed in several stages. After disassembly, the first step is to install vibration damping material on the metal base of the body. This eliminates the vibration of the iron, which creates overtones and interferes with the ability to adequately receive sound and feel comfortable in the cabin.

The vibration damping material is a foil with a layer of resin applied to it. Working with this material requires a stitching roller. As a rule, it is purchased or made independently.

A do-it-yourself stitching roller will help you correctly make shvi in a car.

How to make a car noise correctly

The algorithm for performing door inspection is given below:

the door is disassembled and the door card is removed (before starting this work, it is recommended to find out how to do this);

It is important to use pullers when dismantling plastic door elements. It is also recommended to stock up on sets of new pistons and other one-time installation elements in advance.

then carefully remove the standard sound insulation;

For the convenience of carrying out ShVI, everything unnecessary is removed, starting with the standard speakers and ending with the wiring (if necessary). It is important to know that some car models have a protective film with a waterproofing effect. It is prohibited to throw it away. After installing vibration and noise absorbers, the material should be re-glued in place.

the inner surface of the door is cleaned with “Galosha” solvent gasoline or some other means;

Gasoline solvent Galosh cleans surfaces intended for gluing well

The first layer of insulation (Shumoff M2, M3 or other material) is glued to the inner cavity of the door.

Vibration insulation is a pliable, soft material. A little hand effort is enough to give it the desired shape. Excess material is cut out with scissors. In this case, vibration isolation should not cover the drainage holes in the lower part of the door.

then the first layer of vibration isolator is rolled in with a roller or other available tool;
at the next stage, the glued vibrating area (“Galosh”) is cleaned;
In the same way as laying a layer of vibration insulation, a layer of noise insulation (Comfort 6 or other) is applied.

Sound insulation Comfort 6 should be installed as a second layer

However, the noise insulation layer does not need to be rolled with a roller compared to vibration insulation. The material is only pressed by hand.

Having finished with the inner cavity of the door, you must remember to replace the removed mechanisms and elements (door lock, window regulators, etc.).

Sound insulation of the internal cavity of the door with 2 layers of material

a large sheet of vibration-proofing material is used to cover the door drainage holes (before this, do not forget to treat the metal surface with solvent gasoline);
rolling is carried out with a roller.

The final stage of processing begins. During it:

the door trim is strengthened, the most creaking areas are treated with the remains of vibration-proofing material;
pieces of vibration isolator are rolled with a roller;
a layer of noise-absorbing material (Germeton 7 or another) is glued entirely to the skin;
the door card (trimming) is put in place.

Sound insulation of door trim with Germeton or similar material

Installing the sheathing will not cause any difficulties, no matter how thick the material is. The fact is that when compressed, the thickness of high-quality material will not exceed 1 mm.

At the final stage, it is definitely recommended to check the functionality of the window regulator, lock and other mechanisms. The operation of the acoustic speakers is also checked (whether the wires have come off during the installation of materials).

Video: noise and vibration insulation of car doors

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the process of performing the ShVI. The procedure can be easily done with your own hands, and if you follow the instructions, you can do everything without errors or hassle.

Source: autoclub.su

Soundproofing of entrance doors

Good sound insulation of entrance doors is the key to coziness and comfort in the apartment. What to do if you bought a door, but its level of sound insulation leaves much to be desired? But when purchasing, the sellers assured you that the highest quality noise-insulating materials were used in the manufacture of this metal door. In fact, such materials may be ordinary scraps of cardboard; at best, it will be foam plastic. By unscrewing the peephole, you can easily inspect the inside of the front door and see for yourself. But don’t despair too much, because all this can be fixed. Call us at 8(495)973-03-61 and order soundproofing for a metal or wooden door!
Our craftsmen will be happy to carry out comprehensive work to eliminate all the shortcomings of an already installed door: the level of noise insulation will increase, thermal conductivity will improve, and all gaps between the door and frame will be closed. To achieve maximum results, we use the best materials, including those used for soundproofing cars in tuning studios, such as cross-linked rubber-based isolon, vibroplast and sound-absorbing slabs made of high-density stone wool. These materials have high efficiency rates with a relatively small thickness. After installing the soundproofing elements, the front door is upholstered with foam rubber and vinyl leatherette. Here you can choose upholstery material from more than a thousand samples of artificial leather to suit every taste, or order door upholstery with genuine leather. The final stage of soundproofing a door is closing the gaps using special seals for metal doors or rollers for wooden doors. Soundproofing of the front door must be carried out by professional craftsmen, otherwise during operation you will not avoid problems with closing and opening the door, as well as with the performance of the locks. And the price for soundproofing a door is not so high.