Dimensions do not light up 21099

Why don't the side lights come on?

Side lights are lamps that let another car know about your dimensions. For example, stopping at the side of the road on the highway and turning off the ignition, the low beam goes out, but the dimensions remain. And according to traffic rules, for your information, parking on the side of the road is allowed only with the lights turned on.

In this article we will look at the main reasons why the lights on the VAZ 2114 do not light up. This article is suitable for all samar owners, both the first generation and the latest.

Lamp burned out

Initially, you should check the side light bulb, if your tail light does not light up or the right side light does not light up separately. Check the light bulb and install a working one. To learn how to replace the lamp, read Replacing side lights.

Fuse blown

But if 2 dimensions fail at the same time, then the front and rear left ones, and even the license plate illumination, then the problem lies in the mounting block. Namely, in fuse F10, which is responsible for the left dimensions, interior lighting, license plate lighting, and panel lighting. But keep in mind that fuse F10 is directly responsible for the left dimensions; if others do not work for you, then look for the corresponding fuse in the article Fuses.

Contacts have oxidized

We analyze the fuse block, namely the blocks of all tires to the fuse and relay block. Most often they oxidize, become detached, and make poor contact. We clean the contacts and connect them well. Don’t forget about the contact group on the headlight block; perhaps the contacts there have also oxidized.

The side light button does not work

The fact is that the side light switch (button) may have broken. The problem is typical: the wire has come loose or oxidized. We clean, secure the wire and check.

Dimension fuse is on

If the fuse is constantly on, then two options are possible:

• poor contact in the fuse box;
• Somewhere there is a short circuit (short circuit).

We check:

• We take a 12 volt light bulb and connect two wires to it, + and -, respectively.
• We take out the blown fuse and connect the wires from the light bulb to the places where it contacts the block. If the lamp is on, then there is a short circuit somewhere.

The only way to find the location of the short circuit is to turn it off in order and check in the same way everything that this fuse is responsible for.

The main diseases are:

1. Wires that go to the trunk lid and to the license plate lighting. Most often, they are the ones who fray and short out.
2. The next weak point, which is why the VAZ 2109 does not light up, then unhook the cable, which is located at the driver’s left foot, which is not on the engine shield, but on the back side of the wing, under the carpet. Having disconnected the cable, we just disconnect the circuit for the license plate illumination and the lampshade.
3. If after this our light on the fuse box goes out, then we have found the place where it shorts. Next, you need to completely look at the wiring and treat it with electrical tape.

Source: https://vaz-2114-lada.ru/2012/08/pochemu-ne-goryat-gabaritnye-ogni/

Dimensions do not light up on VAZ 2114

Dear car owners! The other day I encountered, at first glance, a simple, but for me not obvious problem: the lights on a VAZ 2114 do not light up. The problem bothers me regularly, a year ago the lights and feet stopped lighting up, I cleaned the contacts and ground, it seemed to help for a while. Then it worsens again! Today only the turn lights are on, that's all. Where could the cause of this unpleasant problem for me be hidden?

Hello! I myself recently dealt with side lights, I had to do a lot of work, but in the end I solved my problem. I'll help you too. First check the lamps, perhaps they are simply burnt out, which is why the side lights do not work (corny, but it happens so often!). Another possibility: the fuse has blown. It needs to be replaced if this is exactly what happened. You need to climb into the mounting block and find F10 there. When it burns out, both side lights do not light up, as well as the license plate lights.

Nothing complicated, I hope you can figure it out. Go ahead. We check the contacts. They could have oxidized, which is why the dimensions do not work. We carry out a visual inspection of all the pads, take them out and put them back in. This is exactly how I solved my problem. I cleaned the contacts and everything was fine. If cleaning does not help, then we check the button itself. It may not work, unscrew it and look. Has the wire fallen off? So it doesn't work!

The most serious reason is a short circuit. But even here you can cope on your own. We take a regular light bulb and connect two wires to it: plus and minus. Next, we take out the fuse and connect the wires from the lamp in place of its contacts. If it starts to burn, it means there is definitely a short circuit somewhere. The only way to find the short circuit is to turn off everything connected to the fuse in order.

Electrical diagram VAZ - 2110

771

The electrical circuit of the VAZ-2110 is single-wire, that is, only one wire passes from the power source to the consumer, through which the plus is supplied. The downside to this combination is the weight of the car. Most circuits are energized when the ignition is turned on. This is done to reduce the load on the battery when the engine is not running and prevent its discharge.

Under constant power, regardless of whether the ignition is turned on, there are circuits for the sound signal, brake light, courtesy light and others whose operation must be independent of engine operation. The electrical circuit of the VAZ-2110 is identical to the electrical circuit of the VAZ-2111 (2112; 2114).

The circuit consists of four bundles, which are divided depending on their location. In particular, in the engine compartment there are two harnesses, one of which runs along the left wing, and the second connects the ignition system in carburetor cars or sensors and actuators with the controller, with the injection engine.

There are also two harnesses in the cabin, one of which connects to the consumers on the left side, instruments, controls, and so on, and the harness that supplies the interior lighting and consumers located in the rear of the car.

The harnesses are connected to each other through a mounting block, which acts as a switching device, and a plug connector located under the panel.

Wiring diagram for fog lights

According to the factory connection diagram, the fog lights turn on after the headlights are turned on. In this case, you can leave the headlights on with the engine off, which will drain the battery.

To prevent this situation, it is better to connect the relay control wire to the terminal from the ignition switch (red in the diagram). But if you want to leave the switch on together with the dimensions, then pin 30 of the relay is best connected to a wire receiving power through the ignition switch.

It should be taken into account that the load on the ignition switch will increase.

Electrical circuit VAZ - 2110 side lights Scheme for turning on turns and hazard warning lights.

Circuit breakers.

Explanation of fuse values:

Below are a few more links to connection diagrams for some consumers. To open, click on the title.

Scheme for remote control of the trunk lock Scheme for connecting the generator Scheme for connecting the rear window wiper and washer Scheme for connecting the hazard warning lights Scheme for connecting the door lock Scheme for connecting the rear window heating Scheme for connecting sound signals Scheme for connecting electric windows Connection diagram for the interior heater Scheme for engine control with an MP7.0 controller

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Source: https://avtolektron.ru/sxema-elektrooborudovaniya/shema-elektricheskaya-vaz-2110

The rear lights of the VAZ 2110 do not light up: reasons, lamp replacement

The rear lights on the VAZ 2110 do not light up, what could be the problem? In this article we will look at the main types of faults in the electrical equipment of this car, and at the same time we will learn how to replace the rear marker lamps of a VAZ 2110.

Connection diagram

Before we start troubleshooting, let's look at the connection diagram for external lighting devices on the VAZ 2110.

Electrical diagram of external lighting devices on the VAZ 2110

The numbers on the diagram indicate:

1 — front side light lamps; 2 — mounting block; 3 — external lighting switch; 4 — ignition switch; 5 — indicator lamp for external lighting; 6 — rear parking light lamps; 7 — brake light lamps; 8 — license plate illumination; 9 — dashboard lighting switch; 10 — reverse alarm switch; 11 — brake indicator switch; 12 — on-board control system unit; 13 — reverse indicators;

K1 - lamp control relay.

How does this scheme work? After turning on the external light switch 3, the voltage from the battery is supplied to the mounting block 2, then through fuses F1, F11 and the control relay it is supplied to the side lamps. In this case, F1 is responsible for the left side of the car (side), F11 for the right. Relay K1 turns on the warning light on the instrument panel if any of the side light lamps stops lighting.

Important! In some modifications of the VAZ 2110, instead of the K1 control relay, jumpers are installed, indicated by arrows on the relay diagram.

Typical faults and their elimination

So, why might the dimensions not work on the VAZ 2110? There are several reasons, we will list them all:

1. The fuse responsible for powering the parking lamps has blown.
2. The power cable has broken.
3. There was a short circuit in the supply wire to the car body.
4. The control relay K1 has failed.
5. The light bulbs have burned out.
6. The exterior lighting switch is faulty.

Let's try to independently find the problem with the rear lights on the VAZ 2110 and fix it. First of all, let's analyze the situation. As mentioned above, fuse F11 is responsible for the starboard side, and F1 is responsible for the left side.

If only the rear lights do not light up, but the front ones work, then it is logical to assume that the fuses are in order. Otherwise (the side does not light up both front and rear), it makes sense to check the serviceability of the fuses in the mounting block. Where to find it will be described at the end of the article.

Now we need the so-called “control”, which is easy to assemble yourself. You need to take any indicator LED and a resistor with a resistance of 800 Ohms.

Schematic diagram of the “control” Instead of an LED and a resistor, it is easier to take a low-power 12 V light bulb, for example, from the same dimensions or turn indicators. This scheme, firstly, is simpler, and secondly, when using it, you do not need to observe the polarity of connecting the probes.

Let's start with the rear lights. We open the trunk and find two pockets in the upholstery at the level of the rear lighting fixtures that cover the lights. We bend them and get access to the power connector.

We bend the upholstery and see the back of the lights with the power connector

On the top and bottom of the lantern we find two latches, squeeze them and remove the board with the lamps from the lantern.

Removing the rear light board of a VAZ 2110

Carefully remove the power connector from the board. We connect one “control” probe to the body of the VAZ 2110 car in a place that can provide good electrical contact with the metal. We turn on the dimensions and measure the voltage at the connector socket to which the red (right side) or red-yellow wire (left side) goes.

If there is voltage, then the problem is in the flashlight. We remove the flexible board and carefully inspect the tracks - they often break due to vibration.

Vibration can cause flex board conductors to break.

If everything is in order, then the reason is poor contact of the light bulb with the socket or its failure. We considered the case when there is voltage on the flashlight block. If it is not there, we continue the search.

We find the common power supply for the rear light devices (see diagram) and measure the voltage on it. The wires are still the same - red and yellow-red. If there is voltage, then the cause of the malfunction is a break in the wire going from this connector to the corresponding size. We inspect the harness, find a break, and fix it.

There is no tension - we move on. Now we need a mounting block. Where to find it will be described below. On the back of this block we find connector Ш2 and measure the voltage at the contacts to which the red and yellow-red wires go.

Numbering of pads and colors of wires connected to them

If it is, then the reason is a break in the wire running from the mounting block to the power supply block for the rear light devices. We inspect the harness, find it, eliminate it. No voltage? We measure the voltage at the same connector, the wire is black and white.

If it is there, then there are problems with the mounting block - fuses F1 and F11, control relay K1, broken tracks. We check the fuses, inspect the tracks, change the relay or install jumpers instead (see diagram).

Location of jumpers instead of control relay K1

If there is no voltage, the cause of the malfunction is a break in the black and white wire coming from the outdoor lighting switch to the mounting block, or the switch itself.

Important! Often the cause of a malfunction can be poor contact in the pads. When searching for a breakdown, it makes sense to disconnect them and make sure that the contacts are not oxidized and that the connectors are not filled with water or clogged with dirt.

Well, let’s talk separately about fuses that can burn out for two reasons:

1. Voltage surge in the on-board network.
2. Short circuit in power supply circuits.

In the first case, it is enough to replace the blown fuse with a device of the same rating (5A). In the second, the task becomes somewhat more complicated - after replacing the fuse, it burns out again. You will have to find a short circuit of the supply wires to the body, which is the negative power bus. We inspect the harnesses, find them, and remove them. Most often, insulation damage occurs where wires pass over and through the ribs of the body.

What kind of light bulbs are there?

Now let's talk about replacing light bulbs, but first let's find out which ones to buy to replace them. In the VAZ 2110, the front markers have W5W bulbs, and the rear marker lights are provided by T4W devices.

On the VAZ 2110, the front side lights have a W5W lamp (on the left), and the rear lights have a T4W lamp

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Replacing the headlight bulb

Replacing the size lamp in the rear lights of a VAZ 2110 is quite simple. First of all, we dismantle the board with the lamps in the same way as we did when troubleshooting: we bend the upholstery flap, squeeze the two latches and remove the board from the lamp (see above). In this case, the power supply does not need to be disconnected - the length of the wires is quite enough to replace light bulbs. Before us are three lamps - one small and two large. We need the first one.

The side light bulb in the rear light is the smallest

We press it down slightly and, turning it counterclockwise, remove it from the socket. In place of the burnt one, we install a new one, also drowning and turning, but clockwise. Turn on the side light and check the result of the work. If everything is in order, we install the board in place, making sure that both latches work, and close the canopy with the upholstery flap.

Where to look for the fuse

All that remains is to figure out the mounting block. Let's try to find it, check the fuses, and at the same time dismantle it to get to the connectors located on the back of the block. The mounting block is located to the left of the driver under the dashboard and is closed with a protective cover. Press the lock button and fold back the cover along with the mounting block.

Removing the cover of the mounting block in the VAZ 2110

Before us are rows of fuses (inserts) and relays. We are interested in inserts F1 and F11, which are responsible for the left and right sides, respectively. Both fuses are 5 A.

Numbering of fuses and relays in the VAZ 2110 mounting block

To get to the connectors, you need to unscrew the fixing screw using a Phillips screwdriver, after which the unit can be removed and turned over.

Removing the mounting block in the VAZ 2110

So we have learned how to troubleshoot rear parking lights in a VAZ 2110. Now, because of such a small thing, it is not necessary to contact a specialist whose services cost a lot of money.

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Source: https://LampaExpert.ru/avtomobilnye-lampy/neispravnosti/ne-gorat-zadnie-gabarity-vaz-2110

Tips for motorists

In modern Russian driving conditions in a VAZ-2109 passenger car, the side lights must be in working order, regardless of visibility conditions on the road. After all, when you turn on the headlights before starting to move, which is the driver’s responsibility, according to the Traffic Rules, the side lights will also be turned on, because this is how the car’s electrical circuit is designed.

Read more: Replacing the front strut of a Volkswagen Polo sedan video

On older cars, and “nines” are one of them, there may be problems with the wiring due to the destruction of the wire insulation, which leads to a short circuit. This especially applies to those places where the harness or tape (going to the rear lights) on which the wires are glued has kinks. Well, exposed wires eventually lead to a short circuit, which blows fuses.

There are two seven and a half ampere fuses protecting the electrical circuit of the side lights of the VAZ-2109. The first, F10, in addition to the front and left rear side lights, also protects the electrical circuits for lighting the instrument cluster, dashboard lighting, license plate and cigarette lighter, and the second, F11, works only for the right rear light. The blown fuse F10 is very easy to determine, since in this case all the front panel lights will go out. And in order to find out whether fuse F11 is intact, you will have to open the hood and the cover of the “black box” (mounting block).

If the fuses are intact and the dimensions do not light, then in the mounting block you also need to check the K4 lamp serviceability relay, which is marked on its upper part in the form of a circle crossed out with a multiplication sign. Sometimes, instead of this relay, there are simply jumpers that were installed by the previous owner of this car. The dimensions will not light up even if the switch fails.

The location of the mounting block can also be considered unsuccessful, since if the drainage hole is contaminated (usually in the fall by leaves falling there), water from the windshield accumulates at the bottom and, if the rubber cover covering the plug connector at the bottom of the mounting block is not sealed, it oxidizes the contacts. The circuit board of this unit also suffers from this water. If such a malfunction is detected, you have to remove the mounting block, varnish the bottom edge of the board, clean the connector contacts, and constantly monitor the condition of the drainage hole so that this malfunction does not recur.

Malfunctions of the rear position lights occur more often than the front ones. This is due to the fact that contact between the side lamp and the flexible board is lost, through which voltage is supplied to all taillight lamps from the block to which the bundle of wires fits. Due to the non-sealing of the rear light, dust appears on the flexible board, and when water gets on it, the dust becomes wet, which leads to the burnout of the flexible board track, which carries power from the block to the side light lamp.

Dimensions relay VAZ 2109 – Professional lawyer

The rear lights on your cherry nine have gone out - is it time to go to the service station? Let's not rush, the problem can be solved yourself. In this article we will find out why the rear lights on a VAZ 2109 may not light up and we will try to fix the problem ourselves.

Main causes of malfunction

Well, let's try to find out why the rear lights of the VAZ 2109 do not work. Let's sketch out a list of possible faults:

1. The light bulb burned out.
2. The flashlight is faulty (oxidation of the socket or connector, burnout, broken board tracks, etc.).
3. The connectors of the mounting block have oxidized.
4. The control relay is faulty (more about it below).
5. The side light switch is faulty.
6. Break/short circuit of supply wires.

The list is decent, but before we get started with diagnostics and repairs, let’s get acquainted with the electrical circuit of the external lighting of the VAZ 2109 car.

Connection diagram for side lights

We don’t need a complete wiring diagram for the car, therefore, in order not to get confused and waste time, we will limit ourselves to only the power supply diagram for the external lighting of the VAZ 2109.

External lighting diagram for VAZ 2109

The numbers on the diagram indicate:

1. Front dimensions;
2. Engine compartment lighting;
3. Mounting block (MB);
4. Engine compartment light switch;
5. Egnition lock;
6. Outdoor lighting switch;
7. External lighting control on the dashboard;
8. Rear lights and brake signal;
9. License plate illumination;
10. Dimmer control for instrument panel lighting;
11. Brake light switch;
12. On-board control system.

After turning on switch 6, the voltage of the on-board network through fuses F10 and F11 is supplied to the lamp health monitoring relay (K4 in the mounting block) and from it to side light lamps 1, 8. In this case, F10 is responsible for the left, and F11 for the right side of the car.

Important! In some modifications of the VAZ 2109, jumpers are installed instead of the K4 control relay. They are indicated by arrows in the diagram.

Diagnostics and repair

We are familiar with the scheme - it is quite simple, it’s time to get to work. If only the tail light does not light up, and the front light of the same side works, then there is no need to blame the fuse - it is fine. Let's assume that everything is so: only the rear light does not work, the fuse is intact. We'll decide later what to do if it burns out.

We will need a device capable of measuring 12 V DC voltage. Any multimeter will do: even a dial multimeter, even a digital Chinese one. We set it to constant voltage measurement mode.

Multimeter set to measure DC voltage up to 20 V

We securely connect one probe of the device to the car body.

It is better to do this with a piece of long wire so as not to limit your freedom of movement. Let's start with diagnosing the flashlight as the weakest link.

The “cheerful” VAZ designers installed a flexible circuit board in the lamp, which has no place at all in a device operating in extreme road conditions.

We open the trunk and see the lid covering the back of the lamp. It is secured with two plastic nuts.

Rear lamp cover

We unscrew the nuts with our bare hands, remove them and get to the power supply.

Removed rear light cover

The block is placed directly on the flexible circuit board; carefully(!) remove it by pulling in the direction of the arrow in the next photo.

Removing the power supply

We turn on the dimensions and measure the voltage on the block. If it's the right tail light, then we need the yellow wire. If the left one is black and yellow. Is there voltage? Either the lamp or flashlight is faulty. We'll talk about replacing the rear light bulbs later.

Important. There is another possible reason. A black wire comes out of the block and connects to the body next to the light. This is a “minus” of nutrition. We check the reliability of its contact with the body. If there is no contact, the entire lamp will not work.

Let's assume there is no voltage. Go ahead. Open the engine compartment and find the MB (mounting block). How to do this and which fuse is responsible for the side light is described in the last section of the article. In the meantime, we are working.

We unscrew the two mounting bolts that secure it.

Dismantling the MB

We turn it over and see the pads. They are marked.

The pads are located on the underside of the mounting block

We need block X9 (see diagram). Without removing it, we measure the voltage on the yellow (right lamp) or black-yellow wire. This can be done by inserting a sewing needle between the wire and the block, connecting it to the probe of the device.

Eat? There is a break in the wiring harness from the mounting block to the lamp. You'll have to climb around the body with a flashlight. We inspect the harness along the entire length from the MB to the rear light, paying special attention to the places where it passes through the body and ribs. We find a break, restore the connection, isolate it.

If there is no tension, move on. Since we are in MB, let's check the corresponding fuse. If it is intact, then we move on to block X4 of the mounting block. Black and white wire - is there voltage? Relay K4 is faulty. We remove it and install jumpers between contacts 4-5, 8-7-1, 9-10-11.

If instead of the relay there are already jumpers, then the problem is with the mounting block. We inspect the tracks, check the cleanliness of the contacts of the block, having first removed it. We find the problem and fix it. No voltage? Badly. Block X1 of the mounting block, pink wire. Eat? Of course, the ignition is turned on and the engine starts. The outside light switch is faulty. You can go to the store for a new one.

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If the fuse is blown

Before this, we agreed to assume that the fuse was intact. Now let’s consider the option when it burned out. We replace it with a new one of the same value. Everything is fine? Problem solved. Burnt out again? There's a short circuit somewhere.

The most common reason: chafing of the wire insulation in the harness and touching the bare core of the body, which itself is one large negative wire.

We disconnect the X6 and X9 blocks of the mounting block and change the fuse again. Burnt out? The problem is in the harness that powers the engine compartment lamp. We find the short circuit and eliminate it. Didn't it burn out? We connect block X6. Burnt out? The problem is in the harness that powers the front headlights - they are located in the headlights.

Doesn't it burn? The problem is almost certainly in the harness that powers the taillights. But to be sure, let's sacrifice one more fuse. Burnt out? You will have to look for a short in the harness from the mounting block to the rear lights. We search, we eliminate.

Important! During all switching and disconnections, do not forget to turn off the side light with switch 6 (according to the numbering on the diagram)!

Now let's start replacing the light bulbs. It’s a simple matter, but without knowing what or how to do it, you can spend hours fiddling around and even break something, tear it, or fold it.

What kind of lamps are in the rear lights of the 9?

In the VAZ 2109, the A12-5 (R5W) lamp is responsible for the rear parking light. It looks like this:

Tail lamp in VAZ 2109

This is a regular incandescent light bulb and no precautions such as gloves or a gas mask are required when handling it.

How to change a headlight bulb

Unlike the vast majority of imported cars (thanks to our designers), you can replace the light bulbs in the rear light in a minute and literally with your bare hands. No removal of wheels, bumpers or engine.

Open the trunk, find the cover covering the back of the lamp, and remove it. Disconnect the power supply from the flexible board (extremely carefully!). We discussed in detail how to do this above. Now you need to remove the back panel of the lamp. To do this, on the side located closer to the central axle of the car, press the plastic lock.

Retainer holding the rear panel in place

Carefully remove the panel, starting from the side of the latch.

Removing the panel

Place it face up. Before us are five different-sized light bulbs. We need the smallest one - the one marked with an arrow.

Rear light panel of VAZ 2109 from the lamp side

We recess it a little, turn it counterclockwise and take it out. We install a new one in place of the burnt one, fixing it by pressing and turning clockwise. We connect the power supply and turn on the dimensions. Everything is working. Place the panel in place and close the lid.

Which fuse controls the dimensions?

Basically, that's it. It remains to deal with the fuses that are located in the MB. The unit itself can be found in the engine compartment under the windshield opposite the driver.

Location of the mounting block (fuse box) in the VAZ 2109

Depending on the year of manufacture, two modifications of circuit boards were installed in the VAZ 2109. The older one has tubular fuses, the new one has flag fuses. Let's look at their appearance and numbering of elements:

Old mounting block VAZ 2109New ​​mounting block VAZ 2109

As can be seen from the photo, there is no relay for monitoring the health of the K4 lamps in both units. Instead, there are jumpers (in the old block they were soldered in from the installation side), which is what we talked about earlier.

Which fuses (inserts) are responsible for the side light? In the old block, the left side dimensions are supplied by insert 9, and the right side by 10. In the new block, inserts 10 and 11, respectively.

So, we are convinced that if the rear side lights on a VAZ 2109 stop lighting, you can find and fix the problem on your own, and there is no point in contacting a qualified specialist because of such a trifle.

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Source: https://jur-prom.ru/rele-gabaritov-vaz-2109.html

Possible problems and solutions

The dimensions on the VAZ 2109 do not light up, then look for the reason in the wiring. Even experienced drivers recommend carefully checking the functionality of all devices and components before leaving. The nine is no exception, in which optics can often fail for various reasons, including:

• Broken wire contact;
• The lamp has burned out;
• The board has burst.

For prompt diagnostics, it is necessary to check the functionality of the fuses that are responsible for their electrical unit. So, remember the two seven-amp fuses under the marking:

• F10:
  responsible for the light dimensions, both front and rear, illumination of the instrument panel, cigarette lighter and license plate;
• F11:
  attached only to the right side of the rear marker.

So, if F10 burns out, it will be noticeable, since the entire instrument panel will go out, but when F11 burns out, you won’t notice the problem. To diagnose, you need to open the hood and find the F11 we need in the mounting block.

If everything is normal with the fuse, then look for the K4

- This is a lamp relay. Often it tends to burn out. In the mounting block it is easy to find by the black circle with the multiplication sign inside. On used cars, old owners install metal jumpers so as not to suffer.

Another typical reason

that the dimensions are acting up, there may be banal oxidation of the terminals in the mounting block. I’ll explain why: structurally, it is located close to the drain hole, so that in good rain or downpour, water and leaves can get in, which will lead to a short circuit. Just a matter of time and nothing more.

The rubber cover is not durable, and after a couple of years it will lose its tightness, and the drain hole will become clogged with debris.

According to disappointing statistics

, the rear dimensions burn out an order of magnitude more often than the front ones, since the board and contact chip over time lose the strength of the connection as a result of holes, potholes or simply factory defects.
After some time, you should expect condensation and dust to appear in the flashlight, which will lead to a short circuit. Here we recommend reading the article “What to do if the headlight sweats.” Read more: Replacing the brake light bulb Renault Megane 2

Possible causes are damage to the wiring, but the solutions are strictly outlined: either look for it yourself, but provided that you understand the essence of the matter, or contact a car service technician. But it is still necessary to eliminate the cause, since this is, first of all, one’s own safety and the safety of the passengers whom the driver is transporting.

If the car ages

, there is damage to electrical wiring throughout the body due to natural aging and the negative influence of weather conditions. Negative temperatures cause the winding to lose its elastic functions and the wire simply breaks in half.

There is only one way out - a comprehensive replacement of the central main wires

. Markets or auto stores sell ready-made parts for different car models, so there shouldn’t be any problems. All it takes is time to replace it.

As a matter of fact, the reasons why the lights on the VAZ 2109 do not light up have been considered. Advice and recommendations are given to drivers.

Only one thing is required from motorists - compliance with traffic rules and timely troubleshooting. Otherwise, the negative statistics of accidents and deaths will thus increase.

Let's look at how to quickly find the reason for the failure of the "dimensions" on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars. The side lights are part of the vehicle's external lighting system and its operation with non-functioning "dimensions" is difficult, especially at night. We are looking for the reason for the non-functioning dimensions, as is customary in such situations, from simple to complex.

Causes of malfunction

— The side light bulb in the socket has burned out

One light bulb, or several at once, can suddenly burn out. In some cases, it may be impossible to visually identify a burnt-out light bulb. Therefore, we replace the burnt out one with a known good one. You can use a similar one from a nearby headlight.

— The contacts in the side light bulb socket have oxidized

We rotate the light bulb in the socket several times to remove the oxidized layer and restore contact. In the future, you can clean everything with sandpaper.

— The contacts in the connecting blocks of the headlight or tail light unit have oxidized

We remove and put on the connecting blocks several times to remove the oxidized layer and restore contact. More radically, we remove the pads and clean the contacts.

- No “mass”

The “negative” wires of the front headlights and rear lights with side lights on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars are attached to the car body. It is necessary to clean the mounting location to ensure good contact with ground. Usually the negative wire is the black wire from the headlight connection block, attached to the body next to the headlight or taillight.

— The fuse has blown

If fuse 10 (F11) is blown, the side lights of the right headlight and right rear light will not work. If fuse 9 (F10) is blown, the left headlight and left rear light of the vehicle will not work. We replace them with new ones, and then look for the cause of the burnout (possibly a short circuit somewhere).

Read more: Bucket for MTZ loader

— Relay K4 is faulty (monitoring the health of the lamps)

A faulty K4 lamp control relay can be replaced with jumpers. We connect the holes for relay terminals 1-7-8, 9-10-11, 4-5. On some VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 vehicles, jumpers are already installed instead of lamp health monitoring relays.

— The tracks in the rear light boards have crumbled

Visually inspect the tracks in the rear light circuit boards for shedding, rust, or burnout. If necessary, we check their integrity using a test lamp or tester. A faulty track can be repaired by soldering wire onto its frayed edges.

— The pads in the mounting block have come off or the wire tips in them have oxidized

It is necessary to check the secure fit of the connecting blocks in the fuse mounting block. For an electrical circuit of “dimensions” these are plugs Ш4 (Х4), Ш6 (Х6), Ш9 (Х9), Ш11 (х11). If necessary, the wire tips present in them should be cleaned from oxidation.

— The external lighting switch on the instrument panel is faulty

You should remove the exterior lighting switch and connect the black and yellow-red wires together. The black current flows into the switch, and the yellow-red current flows out. If the lights light up, replace the switch with a new one. If not, we look for a fault in the electrical circuit further.

— “Open” or short circuit in the wiring

It is necessary to check the presence of electric current on the external lighting switch (circuit from the ignition switch to the switch), fuses (circuit switch - mounting block) and on the lamp control relay (functionality of the mounting block).

Notes and additions

— Side light lamps are located in the front headlights and rear lights of the car. The front lights use an A12-4-1 bulb, and the rear lights use an A12-5 bulb.

— The electrical circuit for switching on the external lighting (“dimensions”) is the same for all these cars. The only difference is in the fuse mounting blocks used: on old Samaras, before 1999. this is 17.3722 with finger fuses, on cars after 1999. modifications of the mounting block 2114 with flag fuses. Accordingly, fuses 9 and 10 are used in the external lighting circuit with the old mounting block, with the new F10, F11.

— “Dimensions” of the right side of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars on the 10th (F11) fuse. “Dimensions” of the left side on the 9th (F10) fuse.

More articles on electrical VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The front lights of the VAZ 2114 do not light up

When driving at night or in fog, side lights are indispensable, especially if they are located at the rear. When moving or while parked, they show other motorists where your vehicle is. If the rear lights on a VAZ-2114 car do not light up, then it will not be difficult to do the repair yourself. To do this, just find out the reason and follow the instructions below, or watch the video.

Characteristics of side lights VAZ-2114

VAZ-2114 belongs to the Samara modification of the second generation. The side lights in them are located, in accordance with technical regulations, at the edge of the front and rear parts of the body, next to the turn signals. These lamps are included in the headlight units.

1. Unlike the front side lights, the rear ones are painted red.
2. The button to turn on these headlights is located in the exterior lighting control unit. It is located in the center of the dashboard above the on-board computer. If the dimensions are turned on, the green light on the switch lights up.

In the engine compartment under the hood of the car there is a mounting block with fuses. If your lights only on the left or right side do not work, then most likely one of the fuses has failed. The easiest way to notice a malfunction is element F10, since it is responsible not only for the operation of the right side of the side lights, but also for the warning lamp to perform its duties.

If the lights refuse to work on the left side, then fuse F11 must be replaced.

Why might the tail light not light up?

Not a single motorist is insured against faulty side lights. It is important to quickly understand what the reason is and carry out repairs. Most often one of the lamps fails, then we can assume the reason for the failure:

• she burned out;
• poor contact;
• breakdown in the wiring leading to this lamp.

The first occurs most often; in this case, it is enough to replace the failed lamp. If the lamp only works if you hit it, then there is a problem with the contacts (although physical impact does not always help). If during testing you find that the light bulb is intact, and there is no oxidation or carbon deposits in the socket, then you need to check the conductors.

Source: https://chevroletcars.ru/info/ne-gorjat-perednie-gabarity-vaz-2114/

Why might the tail light not light up?

Not a single motorist is insured against faulty side lights. It is important to quickly understand what the reason is and carry out repairs. Most often one of the lamps fails, then we can assume the reason for the failure:

• she burned out;
• poor contact;
• breakdown in the wiring leading to this lamp.

The first occurs most often; in this case, it is enough to replace the failed lamp. If the lamp only works if you hit it, then there is a problem with the contacts (although physical impact does not always help). If during testing you find that the light bulb is intact, and there is no oxidation or carbon deposits in the socket, then you need to check the conductors.

Replacing a damaged lamp in the rear headlight unit is carried out according to the instructions:

• turn off the lights and open the trunk;
• remove decorative upholstery;
• squeeze the latches and pull out the flashlight contact panel;
• click on the burnt out lamp and turn it counterclockwise;
• Check the light bulb on the tester and install a new one if necessary.

Assembling the lanterns is carried out in the reverse order. The lamp can also be replaced as an assembly. To do this, it is only important to purchase a high-quality version that is no different from the original. Car enthusiasts often recommend purchasing stock components or paying attention to. We recommend replacing the assembly if there is significant damage to the structure.

Often, taillight lamps do not immediately burn out or refuse to work, but indicate problems with a faint glow. First, clean the group of contacts located in the mounting block, and then, if the fault cannot be corrected, check the groups leading to each lamp.