✅ Lada Kalina does not start, the starter clicks

A lot of time has passed since AvtoVAZ put on sale a car called Lada Kalina. Advertising and the hope of domestic car enthusiasts for a bright future did their job - every third Russian chose Kalina as a new car. However, the joy of owning a domestic car ends sooner or later. After just a few months of operation, the Kalina car showed its rather capricious character. And it just so happened that the owners of the Lada Kalina began to disappear more and more often in the garage, once again doing some kind of repair, rather than driving the car. AvtoVAZ engineers are well aware of the shortcomings and childhood diseases, and are doing their best to get rid of them in the next generation in order to increase reliability. However, the result of the improvements is insignificant. The car still cannot please with its endurance and resistance to wear. It’s especially unpleasant when the Kalina doesn’t start at the right moment. And the car owner is forced to start troubleshooting. Let's try to understand the reasons for the car's reluctance to start.

Immobilizer

If the car refuses to start, then this is one of the possible reasons. You can notice problems in the operation of this system yourself. If the corresponding icon blinks and a characteristic beeping sound is heard, then you should read the operating instructions. If the Lada Kalina does not start, the immobilizer is a common problem. The problem is not easy to fix. In the instructions for the car, the manufacturer indicates the decoding of sounds and blinking lights - the car owner needs to count the time between flashes, the number of buzzer signals, and then read what the manufacturer writes about this.

In winter, it often happens that the car starts normally after about the sixth time. In most cases, this problem can be solved by retraining the key - after this procedure, problems with starting should not appear.

How and why the immobilizer fails

Let's dwell on this topic in a little more detail. The thing is that the ECU controller on this model is located under the heater radiator. In second-generation models, the controller was moved.

So, if the Kalina does not start, you need to remove the side wall from the left side in the passenger seat and visually check the ECU. The block must be dry. If it is wet, then it is filled with coolant - in this case, it will not be possible to restore the ECU, only replacement will help.

First of all, when exposed to liquid, the output switch burns out. The chip can be re-soldered, but after such repairs the problems will go away for literally two months, and then they will appear again. The heater radiator will need to be replaced. If this problem exists, then experts recommend installing a new controller between the engine compartment partition and the stove.

Now about the immobilizer - in Kalina cars the manufacturer installs APS-6 immobilizers. In very rare cases, these devices fail on their own. Often, the problem is hidden in the wiring or control panel. The key fob body is held together with one self-tapping screw - the screw can be overtightened or undertightened. A crack appears on the remote device chip between the transponder contacts. In this case, if the Kalina does not start, only a spare or training key, or replacing the remote control will help.

The starter clicks but does not turn, what is the reason?

Good afternoon.
Many car enthusiasts are familiar with the situation when the starter clicks but does not turn. As luck would have it, such situations occur at the most inconvenient moments, for example, at gas stations or when leaving for work. In today's article, we will tell you how to determine the malfunction and, if possible, start the car to get to the repair site.

Before telling the troubleshooting algorithm, let's look at the starter device. For clarity, watch this video:

As you can see, the starter is a regular DC motor and relay. When you turn the key in the ignition and hear a click, it is the solenoid relay that clicks (the coil and contacts at the top of the screen in the video). If the starter does not rotate, but clicks, the following options are possible:

The battery is dead.
starter relay failed
The contact coins in the solenoid relay are burnt.
The starter brushes are worn.
the starter armature is jammed.
power plus is not supplied to the starter (because if there is no mass there will not even be retractor clicks)

Below we will analyze each of these faults in detail, and tell you which faults will allow you to start the car on the spot, using the existing starter, in order to get to the service station.

A severely discharged battery is the most common cause of clicking noises when turning the ignition key.

The error looks like this:

In our video you can see that when starting, at first, the starter barely turns the engine, and then it just crackles…. If the battery is severely discharged, the starter will not even try to crank the engine but will immediately make nasty clicking noises.

The fact is that the battery voltage is not enough even to operate the solenoid relay!

Options to solve the problem:

light a cigarette from another car (we have a separate article about this on our website).
start the car from a pusher/tug (if it has a manual transmission).
remove and charge the battery.

Your starter is working!

Starter relay failure.

Relay failure manifests itself as a quiet click when turning the key.

In this case, you can start the car using a simple screwdriver. This is done like this:

Attention! If you are not confident in your abilities, you should not do this. It is better to contact specialists or call a tow truck. If you make a mistake when starting this way, the vehicle may move unintentionally or catch fire due to a short circuit.

Vehicle with manual transmission:

set the parking brake.
turn on neutral gear.
open the hood and prepare a flathead screwdriver.
turn the key in the ignition switch to the ignition on position.
Using a screwdriver, we close two contacts on the solenoid relay (as in the video).
After starting the engine, remove the screwdriver and drive to the repair site.

Car with automatic (+variator and robot) gearbox:

install a car parking brake (for robot and variator).
open the hood and prepare a screwdriver (possibly two).
turn the ignition to the on position, press the brake, move the gear selector to the parking position (P).
Using a screwdriver, we close two contacts on the solenoid relay (as in the video).
After starting the engine, remove the screwdriver and drive to the repair site.

The contact coins in the solenoid relay are burnt.

This malfunction manifests itself in the form of loud clicks when the key is turned to the start position and the key is released. In some cases, the starter may trip.

Here is a video example of such a malfunction:

How to quickly diagnose contact patches?

Everything is extremely simple - open the hood, take a screwdriver, and bridge these two terminals:

If a spark jumps when the connection is made and you hear the sound of the electric starter rotating, you can be sure that your contact pins are burnt.

In this case, the car can be started with a screwdriver!

How to start a car with the starter when the contact pins burn?

Attention! If you are not confident in your abilities, you should not do this. It is better to contact specialists or call a tow truck. If you make a mistake when starting this way, the vehicle may move unintentionally or catch fire due to a short circuit.

In order to start the car when the contact pins burn out, you must simultaneously bridge all three contacts on the solenoid relay.

Closing the two contacts under the nuts is necessary to rotate the armature, and closing the control contact so that the overrunning clutch (Bendix) engages with the flywheel.

The procedure for starting a car if the contact pins fail:

Vehicle with manual transmission:

set the parking brake.
turn on neutral gear.
open the hood and prepare a flathead screwdriver.
turn the key in the ignition switch to the ignition on position.
Using a screwdriver, we close all three contacts on the solenoid relay (sometimes one screwdriver is not enough and you have to take two).
After starting the engine, remove the screwdriver and drive to the repair site.

Car with automatic (+variator and robot) gearbox:

install a car parking brake (for robot and variator).
open the hood and prepare a screwdriver (possibly two).
turn the ignition to the on position, press the brake, move the gear selector to the parking position (P).
Using a screwdriver, we close all three contacts on the solenoid relay (sometimes one screwdriver is not enough and you have to take two).
After starting the engine, remove the screwdriver and drive to the repair site.

The starter brushes are worn.

The malfunction manifests itself in the same way as burning of the contact coins (loud clicks when turning the ignition key), the only difference is that when the brushes wear out, the starter will never rotate.

This is checked in the same way when bridging the contacts of the solenoid relay with a screwdriver.

Starter

The immobilizer has been checked and does not give any alarms, but the engine still does not want to start. Another reason for this behavior is the starter. It is easy to notice a problem with the starter - you will not hear the characteristic sound of the engine starting. The mechanism simply does not spin, which means the engine will not be able to start. Everything is clear here - you need to remove and check the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the first reason may be the battery. It may simply be discharged. If the lights in the cabin and on the dashboard are not lit, the driver will be able to immediately notice this. However, it often happens that everything is in order, but the starter still does not work. For diagnostics, turn on the high beams and get out of the car. Dim headlights are due to the battery. It is discharged, but only to a critical level, when there is not enough power to turn the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, the best way out of this situation is to charge the battery. But if the headlights are bright in high beam mode and are not going to dim, then you will have to look for the reason elsewhere.

Kalina does not start and its starter does not turn

If the starter does not turn, this indicates several breakdowns at once that are preventing the Kalina’s power plant from starting.
The simplest reason is a dead battery. Here, when the owner tries to start the car, a cracking noise is heard under the hood. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals - if it is less than 11.5 volts, then charging is necessary. The starter will also not turn over when the battery terminals (or wires) are excessively oxidized or poorly secured. In this case, the launch is accompanied by a serious voltage drop in the on-board network. Clean the contacts, lubricate them with Litol and tighten the threaded connections with a wrench.

When Kalina's engine does not want to start, it may be jammed. Make sure that the crankshaft and alternator pulley move and that the antifreeze pump is running.

There is another possibility - the starter itself is faulty. Dismantle the device and find out what is wrong with it. More often it is:

drive gear;
flywheel coupling;
winding.

The problem is often caused by a malfunction of one of the elements of the starter electrical circuit (ignition switch, relay) or the starter itself. For example, the following fail:

Sometimes the traction relay does not work when starting the engine (there is no characteristic click). Make sure it has voltage (12 volts). In addition, the named element itself may break. The armature gets stuck in it or a break occurs in the coil. Under such conditions, the starter is unable to turn.

Quite often, Kalina does not start if the freewheel slips. Here the starter shaft turns, but the flywheel does not move.

Starter or wiring problems

You can use a multimeter to test the wiring. The red wire is connected to the starter contact, the black wire to ground. In a normal situation, the device will show from 12.5 to 14.5 V. If the reading is less or even zero, then there is something wrong with the wiring.

The first step is to clean the contacts, check the integrity of the wires and fuses.

If the check shows that there is current, then the starter will have to be replaced. If the latter makes clicks but does not rotate, then the starter motor has failed. If everything is the other way around, then the problem is with the retractor coil.

ECU

This is another popular problem when Kalina does not start. ECUs are the “brains” of the car; they themselves are quite reliable, and if you don’t touch them, then no problems will happen. However, most often the ECU is flooded.

This often happens when antifreeze leaks. This has already been discussed in the section on the immobilizer. When installing an alarm system or when pulling car wires, they forget to install the plugs - water gets into the ECU. Repairing an electronic unit is a futile exercise.

In the new generation, this problem was solved, and now the ECU is located in a different location. However, now another problem has appeared - if the drain hole, which is located next to the cabin filter, is clogged, then water can enter the computer through the holes.

Spark plug

If everything is in order with the electronic filling, you should look for the problem in the candles. Often, and especially in winter, it floods.

Compression in the engine in cold weather does not meet the standards, so the engine may not start immediately. Often flooding of spark plugs occurs due to a discharged battery, which is unable to produce a normal spark. If not, the reasons may also be in the wiring or the spark plugs themselves. The easiest way to dry the spark plugs is to press the gas to the floor and crank the engine with the starter two or more times. Often, after this the car will start. If this does not help, then for more thorough drying you should dismantle the spark plugs, then clean them, check the gap, and then dry them with a hairdryer or in the oven.

Lada Kalina starter does not turn over

Each owner of the popular Russian small car Lada Kalina has to face the need to repair their car. Any equipment tends to break down or not turn on, so it is impossible to protect yourself from such a situation. Modern machines are complex structures consisting of many components and systems, most of which cannot be identified with the concept of “durability”.

An easier way to fix the problem that appears is to send your “iron horse” to a service center where professionals will take care of it. However, this is very expensive when it comes to serious damage. The design features of the Lada Kalina are such that the owner of the LADA Kalina, with a little experience, can repair quite a few components on his own, thereby saving financial resources, especially if the starter does not turn.

Over the years of operation, 8-valve Lada Kalinas have shown a tendency to “suffer” from the inability to start the engine in frosty weather, when it is possible that the starter does not turn. Often the culprit here is the starter, which “refuses” to turn the flywheel.

Next, we will consider the features of this situation and methods for eliminating it when the starter does not turn.

Gasoline pump

The vagaries of the fuel pump are often observed, especially in winter. The starter works, but the Kalina car refuses to start, you can’t hear the fuel pump running, the dashboard may flash

First of all, check the pressure in the fuel system. To do this, open the hood and look for the cap on the ramp with the injectors. You can see the nipple there - if you press it, fuel should spray out. If it splashes, then the problem is not with the fuel pump.

Another reason is the relay. There is a cover in the transmission tunnel on the passenger side. It contains power coils. To eliminate the malfunction, just knock or warm them up.

If then you need to get to it and check the voltage. If the multimeter shows about 12 V, then the fuel pump is working. If not, then it is worth checking the fuses, as well as the relays.

Won't start when warmed up

Owners also often complain that Kalina is not. The most common reasons for this behavior are problems

It may send the wrong signal, resulting in fuel being delivered incorrectly. Fuel injectors also become depressurized. As a result, the fuel mixture becomes over-rich. The injectors need to be replaced or cleaned.

These are all the reasons why the Lada Kalina refuses to start.

Today's post will be devoted to such a problem as the unsuccessful start of the Kalina engine. If your car does not start the first time, then this already indicates a certain problem that leads to this result.

There can be a great many reasons why the engine does not start immediately, and it is unlikely that it will even be possible to consider everything within the confines of this article. But still, we will try to provide below a list of the main problems that may be involved in poor starting of the Kalina engine.

Low fuel pressure in the rail
. After a long period of parking, the pressure in the fuel rail decreases. And to start the engine, normal operation of the fuel pump is required to create the very pressure that is necessary. If the pump no longer copes with its task 100%, then this may be the reason that the engine does not start the first time. The second time the pump pumps more pressure into the ramp, and Kalina starts right away. This was one of the possible problems; below we will consider other options.
Ignition coil malfunction
. This can be applied to both 8 and 16 valve engines. If the coil begins to act up, then it is possible that the first launch attempts may be unsuccessful. This can be especially true in damp weather or in winter at sub-zero temperatures. A clear example of a similar problem was discussed in the blog some time ago, and you can read about it.
Crankshaft sensor malfunction
. This happens extremely rarely, and in most cases, sensor failure immediately leads to the fact that the engine does not start and there is no spark. But sometimes, if it’s faulty, your Kalina may have difficulty starting: the second or third time.
Failure of the IAC or TPS
. If problems arise with these sensors, interruptions in engine operation and even poor starting may occur. The BC cannot always show errors in these sensors, and the most ideal option is to install known-good elements to check their functionality.
Low-quality gasoline
can also cause poor starting. To verify this from your own experience, it is enough to drive at least a day on 92 gasoline - on a 16-valve Kalina.
Start blocking by immobilizer
. I think many have heard about this and some owners have even encountered it. In this case, you can start, and if this does not help, contact a specialist for repairs or shutdown.

As mentioned above, you can list the reasons for a very long time. If you are the owner of Kalina and have encountered such problems, you can unsubscribe in the comments, as well as provide ways to solve this or that problem!

Stylish crossover Kalina

A lot of time has passed since AvtoVAZ announced the launch of a new project called Lada Kalina. Grandiose advertising and hope for a bright future did their job: millions of Russians, out of patriotic feelings, decided to choose the domestic Kalina, discarding numerous projects by Renault, Volkswagen and other factories positioning reliability and quality. But the joy was short-lived.

Already in the first months, Kalina did not show her best side, showing a capricious disposition. And it turned out that Kalina’s owners began to spend more time in the garage doing repair work than on trips. Engineers know their shortcomings and try in every possible way to get rid of them in each next generation of cars, to come up with something to increase the reliability of the car.

But for some reason the results are still little noticeable. As before, the car cannot please you with its endurance and wear resistance. The most unpleasant problem is that Kalina does not start from time to time. To return the machine to working order, it is necessary to find out the causes of the malfunction, and there are many of them. So, let's try to figure out why the Lada won't start.

Main reasons

The engine does not start the first time

Kalina has a fairly common reason that it does not start the first time. This is due to design, wear and tear and electrical issues. But, it is worth breaking the problems into categories and considering them in more detail. So, let's look at the main categories into which this malfunction is divided:

Problem with the fuel system.
The reason is the ignition.
Failure of timing elements.
The problem is in the operation of electrical circuits and the ECU.

When everything is sorted out into the causes, it is worth considering them in more detail and how to eliminate them on the car.

Fuel system

The first reason that a car may not start the first time is the fuel system. Insufficient fuel or too much gasoline becomes a problem. In this case, the starter turns, but starting is difficult. If the starter does not turn and the immobilizer icon is flashing, then the problem is already on the immobilizer side.

Fuel pump wear

A failure of the fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter can cause the pressure in the fuel line to be insufficient and the mixture to be lean. Accordingly, the small amount of fuel in the combustion chambers is not enough to start the engine . If too much fuel mixture is supplied, the spark plugs are simply thrown and there is no spark to ignite, which causes the engine to not start.

Ignition

The second reason for poor starting is a malfunction of the ignition system. The problem may lie in the following nodes:

Ignition switch malfunction.
Breakdown in high-voltage wires.
Spark plugs are worn out or dirty.

When considering the problem, it is necessary, first of all, to pay attention to the spark plugs, clean them and adjust the gaps using a feeler gauge.

Next, you need to check the ignition wires, resistance and insulation damage. If necessary, it is worth replacing failed products.

Wear or damage to high-voltage wiring is accompanied by poor resistance

Gas distribution mechanism

You can often find in manuals that starting not the first time is associated with incorrect operation of the gas distribution mechanism. First of all, this is due to carbon deposits that form on the valves, as well as incorrect operation of the gas distribution phases. The malfunction should be looked for in the camshafts, as well as the position of the crankshaft relative to the camshaft.

Features of the starter and immobilizer

Kalina is sensitive to poor fuel quality

Kalina was assembled using technology, some of which was borrowed from old developments, and some was taken from imported projects and slightly adjusted in our manner. Everything would be fine, but Kalina reacts poorly to the slightest tests of strength. Broken roads, low-quality gasoline or something else like that lead it to a state of collapse.

Because of this, Kalina is much inferior not only to its imported analogues, but even to the simple domestic UAZ, which, although it is a drab little car, is reliable and, with proper care, will last for decades. With Kalina there is no hope for this.

The causes of starting problems may lie in the engine. Perhaps you had to fill the car with gasoline that was not of the best quality, which contained impurities that played a fatal role in the performance of the car. Another option is that some parts are worn out and need to be replaced.

There are more complicated reasons, for example, failures in the electronic system of the power unit. In this case, it will be very difficult to cope with the breakdown on your own, and it is more advisable to turn to specialists. A defective fuel pump can also affect your car's starting, and the list of possible problems goes on and on.

It was in vain that the AvtoVAZ team decided to follow the western path, without having the proper experience. Of course, we wanted the best, but it turned out as always. Let Kalina be a logical continuation of the well-known “fives” and “sevens”, albeit not a bright one, but a more or less reliable car. But the masters embarked on experiments that have been going on for decades, but they cannot be called successful.

Immobilizer control unit

An immobilizer is a good thing, but only when its design meets all existing reliability requirements. But Kalina’s immobilizer often fails. The problem will be indicated by a flashing signal sent by the device. You can often hear a characteristic warning sound. Fixing a breakdown is not easy.

First, you need to diagnose the immobilizer by monitoring the light bulb signals and counting them by seconds. Then you will have to look at the operating instructions, where the decoding of this Morse code should be given. Based on what signals the light bulb gave us, we decide what to do next.

What to do if Kalina does not start and the starter does not turn

If the starter does not rotate when you turn the key in the ignition switch, the following situations may have arisen:

battery power has run out;
the order of the electrical circuit system has been disrupted in the area located in the middle of the battery, starter, ignition switch and traction relay;
The vehicle's traction relay has failed.

You can determine the battery charge based on the operation of the headlights. If after switching on, after a few seconds, they dim, this means that the battery is discharged. .

If the headlights emit bright light, then you should start the starter by turning on the ignition. A situation may occur that after performing this action the light will dim, which indicates that the problem should be looked for in the voltage supplied to the starter. It is possible that it may be broken.

If the headlights still light up when the starter is turned on, but there is no click in the electric motor, then this may indicate a violation of the integrity of the electrical circuit that powers the starter.

It may be that the Kalina does not start and the starter turns, but very slowly, while the battery is fully operational. This indicates a breakdown in the equipment itself or that there is an overestimated resistance in the electrical circuit. It is recommended to completely disconnect all existing wiring and thoroughly clean all starter contacts. It is important to check whether they supply the required voltage. This can be done using a voltmeter.

You also need to use a voltmeter to check the voltage supply to the motor from the contacting elements of the traction relay. To do this, you need to turn on the ignition. When in good condition, the device should indicate the presence of full voltage. If it is absent, we can conclude that the relay contacts have failed. If all of the above parts are in working order, then the cause should be sought directly in the starter motor.

When the car does not start, it is recommended to promptly resolve the problem. In order to cope on your own, you must have the appropriate special knowledge and a standard set of tools. It is best to regularly inspect the starter and clean it. This will serve as a good prevention of unwanted breakdowns.

Causes of motor breakdowns and methods for eliminating them

Every driver faces such a problem when his car breaks down and won’t start. The reason for this is often a malfunction of the starter. It is a specific electric motor that uses a battery to receive power. Main faults and their

Determining the causes of a windshield wiper malfunction on a VAZ car

wipers If suddenly the wipers on your car stop working, this is not a reason to panic. This device is quite simple and, if desired, anyone can independently eliminate the cause of the malfunction by following the further instructions. And so, let's find out why the wipers on your VAZ-2105 do not work.

Self-installation and subsequent adjustment of fog lights on a Lada Kalina car

The main purpose of fog lights is to better illuminate the road in fog, but they can also be used as daytime running lights, the use of which when driving a car outside a populated area, according to traffic regulations, is mandatory.

How to detect and fix problems in the windshield wiper system of a Lada Kalina car

The design of the windshield wiper system is a fairly simple diagram. If desired, any car owner is able to understand the cause of the malfunction and fix it independently.

Repair of windshield wipers on a VAZ 2109 car

Wipers are a very important part of a car's equipment. Their functions are especially useful in the autumn-winter period.

Reasons why a car won't start

It also happens: the immobilizer is silent, does not give any sound or color signals, but the Lada Kalina still does not start. The cause may be problems with the starter. It is even easier to recognize a failure of this device than an immobilizer. If everything is fine with the starter, when you start the engine you will always hear a healthy, peaceful rumbling of the engine. There will be no sound when the starter stalls.

How to remove a broken starter

Starter operation may be affected by a discharged battery. You can understand this by looking at the instrument panel - not a single light on it will be lit. If the lights are on, you need to check a simple test: turn on the high beam headlights and see how they burn. A dim glow confirms our guess; in this case, the battery should be recharged. Good headlights dispel all doubts in this regard.

But it also happens differently: for the first twenty seconds the headlights burn perfectly, brightly, and then they slowly begin to go out, like a burning candle. This is a bad sign, you will have to tinker. In this case, either the starter itself or the wiring has failed. The wiring is checked with a voltmeter; people call this device “tseshka”. Do not forget that the wires are connected as necessary, but in a strict order: red - to the starter contact, black - to the car body. The norm is considered to be from 12.5 to 14.5 W.

A lower figure indicates serious problems with the wiring. To solve them, you need to clean the contacts, inspect the fuses and wires, in case there is a break or burnt areas somewhere. If these emergency methods do not help and the car does not start again, you will have to somehow get it to the workshop. There is special equipment that will determine the causes of the breakdown in a matter of minutes.

Checking the wiring operation

There is, of course, a radical method, which is better to resort to in the most extreme cases, for example, when the car stalled somewhere in the middle of the road, far from the city. The method is called “pusher,” but there is one caveat: you need to find two or three strong guys who will agree to help a little and push the car.

In order for the engine to fire, the starter contact must be closed directly, for which the car is placed in neutral gear, or better yet, the handbrake. Having done this tricky manipulation, turn on the ignition and conduct current from any wire with the “+” sign to the starter. The main requirement for the wire is the presence of voltage, which can be borrowed from the battery (“+” to the starter, and “-” to ground) or from the lights. When the current begins to act on the starter, it starts to move and spins the motor shaft. The car wakes up from hibernation and comes to its senses for a while. But even if the car starts up this way, don’t rush to rejoice. This is only a one-time procedure, after which the car must be taken to a service station, otherwise the repair will cost you a pretty penny.

Another reason why the Lada does not start is a failure of the electronic control unit (ECU).

This device is an analogue of a processor for a computer, without which there will be no work; it is the brain of the machine, its basis. If something is wrong with the ECU, a distress signal is sent throughout the car, a collapse occurs, from which it is very difficult to get the Lada out of it. Failures usually occur due to antifreeze somehow leaking from the stove.

The close proximity of the stove and the control unit is not very good for a car. If, when tuning a car or installing an alarm system, technicians forget to put in the plugs, then water gets into the ECU. Even a drop is enough for the system to fail. The only way to secure the unit is to move it somewhere under the glove compartment. By the way, on the Lada 2013 the ECU is installed there already at the factory.

Regardless of the patriotic mood, few will argue that the Lada Kalina is still far from Mercedes or BMW. The point here is not so much in design and appearance, but also in the fact that domestic cars often have to be repaired immediately after purchase.

Video of Lada Kalina not starting the first time, and every year it gets worse and worse. The cause and treatment are considered.

The starter does not work on Lada Kalina

When, when you try to start the engine of your Lada Kalina, you do not hear a single sound from under the hood of the car, then you will have to look for a fault either in the electrical starter circuit or in the starter itself. If you, at the moment, do not have time to troubleshoot, then you can try to start the engine by using a screwdriver to close the plus terminal of the traction relay with the terminal, having first removed the plug through which voltage is supplied to the windings of the traction relay.

If the ignition is turned on and the traction relay and starter are working properly, the engine will start, which will indicate a malfunction in the starter activation circuit. But before you do this, ensure your safety by placing the gear shift in neutral and applying the parking brake to the rear wheels of the vehicle. And also, use a screwdriver to touch only these two terminals, and do not be alarmed by the resulting sparking.

We begin troubleshooting the starter activation circuit by checking relay K3, located in the mounting block in the car interior. This can be done very simply. You need to remove relay K3 from the socket, and replace it with the adjacent relay K2, located to the left of relay K3. Just first make sure that the power windows, which are activated via relay K2, are working, this will mean that it is working properly. If, after installing relay K2, the starter starts working, then we can say that a malfunction has been found. Well, if the starter refuses to work in this case, then you will have to check the condition of the electrical circuits from the contacts of the K3 relay socket to the ignition switch and to the traction relay terminal.

Every driver probably knows that the activation of the starter largely depends on the condition of the battery, since it can also become the reason why the Kalina engine does not start. Therefore, the battery must always be fully charged, and there should be no traces of oxidation on its terminals, as this can significantly reduce the current consumed by the starter when starting the engine. And then its power will not be enough to turn the crankshaft at the frequency required to start the engine.

The graphite brushes of the commutator, overrunning clutch and traction relay contacts have a shorter service life than the starter itself. Therefore, over time, they can also cause the starter to fail to start the Lada Kalina engine. Also, the teeth of the flywheel ring gear and the starter drive gear wear out, and when they reach a certain level of wear, they simply cannot engage with each other.

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The main culprits of the engine not starting

So what to do if? There are many reasons. Some problems can be fixed on your own, while others can only be fixed at specialized service stations.

Immobilizer

Not all Kalinas have the immobilizer activated from the factory, but if you are afraid of its glitches. If you do not have it activated, then this problem should not affect you.

This may be the first reason why the car won't start. You can fix it yourself. If the immobilizer starts blinking, then in order to understand the specific cause of the malfunction you need to sit down and read the manual: what each light means, as well as the frequency of flashes and buzzers. In the cold season, the car can only be started after 5-6 times.

The photo shows a red key for clarity. The red block in the photo is a memory element for the immobilizer; it can become out of sync or break.

This problem can be solved by reflashing the key.

Starter

In the case when the previous system is in good condition, another reason why the car does not start may be the starter. Only a deaf person would fail to notice that this unit is not working.

Starter under the hood of Kalina. Check the power to the starter, circled in red.

If the starter does not make any sounds when cranking, the battery may also be discharged. When, after checking and, if necessary, recharging the battery, the starter does not spin, then most likely it does not work. There may be a breakdown in the unit itself or in the wiring. To check whether voltage is being supplied to the starter, you need to use a voltmeter. After connecting to the car network, it should have 12-14 volts. Cleaning the contacts will also help here. If this does not help, then you should go to a service station.

Control unit (ECU)

This is also a common reason why the engine will not start. Usually, if you don't touch it, there are no problems with it. Often the unit can fail when it is flooded with water. This is a design flaw, or rather a flaw (a known problem with Kalin).

The ECU in Kalina is located at the bottom; due to leaks during rain, it can easily be flooded with water

In this case, the block will have to be replaced completely. To protect yourself, you should insulate it well or move it to another place under the hood. You cannot wrap the block in polyethylene, as it will fail due to condensation.

Candles

Condition of the candles in the photo

They are usually flooded in the cold season. This can also happen when the battery is weak. In this case, you need to dry the candles. They can be cleaned from carbon deposits with a toothbrush. The gap should also be kept within 0.8-1 millimeter. You can also use a hairdryer. If you have spare spark plugs, you can replace them.

Fuel

It can also be the reason why the engine will not start. To protect yourself from low-quality fuel, you need to refuel your car only at time-tested gas stations.

Fuel pump and relay

The fuel pump is universal and fits all models of the VAZ family.

If, when the starter cranks the engine, it does not start, then it may need to be replaced. You need to open the hood and find the cap to the left of the injectors. When you press it, gasoline should spray out. When gasoline enters the engine, it is not the fuel pump. The relay may fail.

Communities › VAZ: repair and modification › forum › Kalina won’t start

Hello everyone, this morning the car refused to start.
I was late for work, so I didn’t bother to figure it out for a long time and went on my own. The symptoms are as follows: the starter does not turn or click, the fuel pump pumps, the voltage on the battery is 10.4 V, the lamps are on, the radio is playing, the heater seems to work uncertainly (it feels like it’s the first to turn weaker), the check does not light up. Connect the retractor terminal and the one coming to the starter together; if it tightens, then either the ignition switch or the starter relay.

OK, thank you. I couldn’t do it right away - the tool is in the trunk, but it only opens with a button.

battery... (and no matter how you twist it, the ECU will not give the command to start if there is less than 10V in the on-board network - it simply has a pass-through transistor responsible for powering the chip will not open...) p.s. Also: does the light on the panel light up and is there a signal coming from the APS? if not, then look for the reason in the battery and starter... (possibly a lock...)

As usual there are 3 signals

usually Sinhala 2...

Well, the voltage is not less than 10, but 10.4

when starting the starter you will have less... from 6 to 9 V

But for this to happen, the retractor must work.

I’ll just type this out here, maybe it will help...

Diagnostics of the APS-6 immobilizer using a buzzer sound signal and an immobilizer indicator. When the system is in good condition, the immobilizer indicator does not light up and there are no buzzer signals. If, when the ignition is turned on, the immobilizer indicator lights up with a constant light or starts flashing, and after about 10 seconds the immobilizer buzzer sounds and the same signal is repeated after another 10 seconds, this means that the immobilizer is either untrained or there is a malfunction in the immobilizer system. The number of buzzer and indicator signals indicates the type of malfunction.

1. If 1 buzzer sounds and the immobilizer indicator flashes, the diagnosis is “The key cannot be read.” Possible causes: 1.1 Malfunctions of the transponder circuit – this group of malfunctions is characterized by the absence of a “signal about the key being left in the ignition lock” when the ignition is turned off and the driver’s door is open. 1.1.

1 Malfunction in the communication coil circuit of the ignition switch. Measure the resistance of the communication coil between the contacts of the 2-terminal block of black color from the ignition switch, which should be within 6 - 8 Ohms. If the coil resistance is normal, check the continuity of the circuit between the 2-terminal block block to the communication coil and contacts 4 and 5 of connector X2 of the electrical package unit. 1.1.

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2 There is no transponder in the key. In the training key, check the presence of the transponder and its designation, it should be PCF7936AS. If there is no transponder, take a “clean” training key and a “clean” engine control system controller (ECSC) and retrain the immobilizer system. 1.1.3 The transponder in the key is faulty, it is detected during pre-sale preparation at the PSSS.

In the training key, you need to take a “clean” training key and retrain the immobilizer system. In a working key with a remote control (RC), you need to replace the remote control with a “clean” one and retrain the immobilizer system. 1.1.4 Malfunction of the input transponder circuit of the APS-6 unit — it is necessary to replace the APS-6 unit and retrain the immobilizer system.1.

2. If 2 buzzer beeps sound and the indicator flashes, the diagnosis is “No connection with KSUD.” Possible reasons: 2.1 Break in the communication line along the W line - restore the circuit between contact “13” of connector X2 of the electrical package unit and contact “71” of KSUD M7.9.7 ( January 7.2).2.2 Malfunction of circuits in the APS-6 or KSUD block on the W line - to identify a faulty product, it is necessary to carry out a trial replacement of them one by one.

If after replacing the product the fault code does not repeat, it is necessary to replace it. 2.3 There is no supply voltage on the APS-6 or KSUD unit. Check for the presence of voltage at the contacts of KSUD M7.9.7 (January 7.2): a) contact “12” - power from terminal “ 30" of the ignition switch; b) contact "13" - power from terminal "15" of the ignition switch; c) contacts "44", "63" - power from terminal "30" of the ignition switch after the main relay.

3. If 3 buzzer beeps sound and the immobilizer indicator lights up constantly or flashes - the diagnosis “The code of the read key is not in the APS memory.” Possible reasons: 3.1 If, after turning on the ignition, the immobilizer indicator lights up constantly for 20 seconds and 3 buzzer beeps sound, then The immobilization system is not trained, the system should be trained.3.

2 If, after turning on the ignition with the training key, the immobilizer indicator flashes and 3 buzzer signals sound, then the APS-6 block is “foreign” or the key is “foreign”. , to restore functionality, it is necessary to retrain the system with a “own” training key for the ICS. 3.2.

4. If 4 buzzer beeps sound and the immobilizer indicator flashes, the diagnosis “ACS does not confirm permission to start the engine.” This means that the ICS was previously trained with a different system; it is necessary to replace the ICS with a “clean” one and retrain the immobilizer system.

5. If, after turning on the ignition, the immobilizer indicator lights up for 20 seconds and the buzzer does not sound, then the immobilizer is trained with its keys, but the ACS is not trained. The system should be retrained.

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