Characteristics of the device, symptoms of failure
This is what the pump for Kalina looks like
The pump works together with the engine. It ensures uninterrupted operation of the fuel supply and cooling systems. The first carries out the transfer of fuel from the tank to the engine, the second - forced pumping of antifreeze or antifreeze.
The water pump-impeller, located on the shaft, is covered by a housing. The shaft has ball bearings at both ends and rotates due to torque by means of a belt attached to the engine.
Symptoms of a broken water pump:
- the red section of the tachometer indicates the overheating temperature of the car engine, this is confirmed by the readings of the device;
- in the cabin of the Kalina car there is a persistent smell from the evaporation of antifreeze;
- a sound similar to a whistle is heard quite clearly - repair or replacement of the pump is necessary;
- Drops of liquid may be found under the car (to identify the problem, leave a sheet of white paper under the car overnight).
To restore the functioning of the pump, experience and special tools are required. It is advisable to entrust the work to specialists at a service station, and replace the pump with a new one.
Fuel pump: design features
Carburetor cars had mechanical pumps. The drive or dam pushed the diaphragm, in the process a vacuum was created and fuel entered the carburetor. Nowadays, almost all cars have an injection engine and an electric pump. It delivers hot food at high speed and maintains stable pressure in the system. The electric motor, together with the working rotor, pushes the fuel. The pump is located in the gasoline tank itself. During operation, fuel becomes coolant and lubricant. There are car models that have two pumps: the main one is under the hood, the worker is located in the fuel tank.
- ODS is the main way to protect a machine. This is a closed-type forced circulation liquid. If the interior heating device supplies cold air, but the Kalina engine overheats, it means that there is a malfunction in the operation of the car. Components of the system:
- special motor shell;
- heat exchanger with electric fan;
- device for maintaining a constant temperature;
- suction device;
- expansion tank;
- contact tubes.
By looking into the plastic expansion tank, you can visually check the amount of antifreeze and antifreeze. There are special marks for high and low levels of liquids in the tank. Outside the tank, there is a pipe at the top for connecting to the heat exchanger sleeve, at the bottom - to the filling tube.
- Expansion cap with breathers. The device includes inlet and outlet breathers. They are capable of providing systemic impermeability. The intake valve maintains elevated pressure in the hot engine. As the temperature rises, steam leakage decreases. The reduced pressure promotes the opening of the released breather as the car engine gradually cools.
- The pump pumping antifreeze is a blade of rapid discharge. The crankshaft wheel drives the pump through a toothed belt on the timing rod. Its body consists of aluminum. The shaft rotates in a double-row ball bearing, which contains enough fuel oil for the entire warranty period. The outer ring is tightened with a self-tapping screw. The gear is pressed in at the front, the impeller, retaining ring, and oil seal are at the rear. Antifreeze or antifreeze leakage is monitored through a hole in the pump shell. This method will help identify unit malfunctions. If the pump cannot be repaired, it is replaced with an identical assembly device. The coolant corrects the redistribution of antifreeze. System cooling of paired cycles occurs as follows:
- in a larger circulation circle, antifreeze penetrates through the engine shell to the radiator battery;
- when moving in a small circle, antifreeze or antifreeze passes only through the cooling shell, without getting into the heat sink.
- Thermostat. The thermal unit and two breathers are components. There is a redistribution of the flow of antifreeze or antifreeze. When the engine is cold, the node valve redistributes the direction of fluid movement. It begins to circulate over a smaller radius, without entering the radiator. High temperatures of 85°C allow the valves to open and allow fluid to flow into the radiator. At temperatures above 100° C, the main valve is fully open, the spare valve closes. Liquid circulation occurs over a large radius.
- Antifreeze or antifreeze temperature meter. This device is screwed into the cylinder head for automatic control of coolant. The sensor is connected to the temperature indicator on the instrument panel of the car. This information is sent to the controller.
- Heating heat sink. Built into the engine cooling system, it heats the vehicle interior by circulating hot coolant.
- The radiator consists of 2 plastic tanks in a vertical position. One of them has a partition. There are 2 more rows of rounded aluminum tubes, aligned horizontally, that pass through the cooling plates. The pipes are connected to the tanks through a rubber key. Antifreeze enters through the upper pipe and exits through the lower pipe. The inlet pipe is located next to a thin steam exhaust hose. The radiator has a casing with an electric motor. Drain plug at the bottom.
- The fan maintains the temperature inside the car. As soon as the controller receives the signal, the fan is turned on via a relay.
The cooling system consists of a radiator battery and a throttle heating unit. The circulation of antifreeze or antifreeze here occurs continuously, regardless of the location of the coolant valve.
Replacing the Kalina Pump 8 Valves with Your Own Hands
replacement
car pumps
Kalina
Pompa c Lada Kalina. This is a pump that is responsible for circulating water during cooling. The block is located in front of the cylinder block. If the pump is faulty, the engine overheats, causing it to boil and break down.
Device characteristics, signs of failure
Here's a pump for viburnum
The pump works with the engine. Ensures uninterrupted operation of fuel supply and cooling systems. The first one carries out the distillation of fuel from the tank to the engine, the second one. forced pumping of antifreeze or antifreeze.
The water pump impeller, located on the shaft, is covered by a housing. The shaft has ball bearings at both ends and rotates using torque through a belt attached to the motor.
Symptoms of water pump failure:
- the red part of the tachometer shows the overheating temperature of the car engine, which is confirmed by the readings
- in the car interior, viburnum smells a persistent smell of antifreeze evaporation;
- the whistling sound is heard quite clearly. it needs to be repaired or to be replaced
; - drops of liquid can be found under the car (leave white paper under the car overnight to identify the problem).
Experience and special tools are required to rebuild the pump. It is advisable to entrust the work to the specialists of the service station, replacing the pump with a new one.
Do it yourself. Pre-replace the 16 valve pump.
Fuel pump: design features
Carburetor cars had mechanical pumps. The actuator or damper pushed the diaphragm, in the process creating a vacuum and forcing fuel into the carburetor. Nowadays, almost all cars have an injection engine and an electric pump. It supplies hot air at high speed and maintains stable pressure in the system. The motor, together with the rotor, pushes out the fuel. The pump is located in the gas tank itself. The fuel becomes coolant in the process. There are car models with two pumps: the main one is under the hood, the worker is in the fuel tank.
- ODS is the main way to protect a machine. This is a closed-type forced circulation liquid. If the internal heater supplies cool air, but the Kalina engine overheats, this indicates a malfunction of the machine. System components:
- special motor housing;
- heat exchanger with electric heater;
- device for maintaining constant temperature;
- suction device;
- expansion tank;
- contact tubes.
By looking into the plastic tank expander, you can visually check the amount of antifreeze, antifreeze. There are special signs of high and low fluid levels in the tank. At the top of the tank there is a pipe for connection to the heat exchanger sleeve at the bottom. filler pipe.
- Expansion cap with fans. The device includes input and output fans. They are able to ensure the integrity of the system. The intake valve maintains high pressure in a hot engine. As the temperature rises, steam leakage decreases. The reduced pressure causes the exhaust breathing tube on the engine to open as the vehicle gradually cools.
- The antifreeze pump is a fast discharge pump. The crankshaft wheel drives the pump through the timing belt to the camshaft. The body is made of aluminum. The shaft rotates in a double-row ball bearing, which contains enough fuel oil for the entire warranty period. The outer ring is tightened with a screw. The front is clamped with a gear, on the back of the impeller there is a retaining ring and an oil seal. Antifreeze or antifreeze leakage is monitored through a hole in the pump housing. This method will help identify the unit's malfunction. If the pump cannot be repaired, it must be replaced with an identical assembly. Corrects antifreeze redistribution. The even cycle cooling system looks like this:
- in a larger circulation circle, antifreeze penetrates through the engine housing into the radiator battery;
- when moving in a small circle, the antifreeze or antifreeze passes only along the cooling shell, without entering the radiator.
- Thermostat. A thermal block and two breathing fans are components. There is a redistribution of antifreeze or antifreeze course. When the engine is cold, the hub valve redirects the fluid direction. It begins to circulate at a smaller radius, without getting into the radiator. High temperatures of 85°C allow the valves to open and fluid to flow into the radiator. At temperatures above 100°C the main valve is fully open, the emergency valve closes. Liquid circulation occurs over a large radius.
- A device for measuring the temperature of antifreeze or antifreeze. This device is screwed into the cylinder head to automatically control the coolant. The sensor is connected to the temperature indicator on the dashboard of the machine. This information is transmitted to the controller.
- Heat heater. Built into the engine cooling system, it heats the vehicle interior by circulating hot coolant.
- The radiator consists of 2 plastic tanks in a vertical position. One of them with a section. There are 2 more rows of rounded aluminum tubes, horizontally aligned, that run through the cooling fins. The pipes are connected to the tanks with a rubber key. Antifreeze enters through the top pipe and exits through the bottom pipe. The inlet is located next to the thin steam hose. The electric motor housing is mounted on the radiator. Drain plug below.
- The fan maintains the temperature in the car. As soon as the controller receives the signal, the fan is turned on by the relay.
Installation of pumps on the Lada Kalina engine
This video was edited by YouTube Video Editor ()
The cooling system consists of a radiator battery and a throttle valve. The antifreeze or antifreeze cycle here is constant, regardless of the location of the coolant valve.
Symptoms of a Damaged Water Pump
- Engine overheating. the pump is faulty, the drive belt is not working, the impeller is damaged.
- The temperature sensor is closer to the middle. You need to stop to check the radiator. In the event of a fault, the pump unit and drive become hot.
- Noise, smell of antifreeze in the cabin.
- Low antifreeze circulation is a consequence of pump failure. Diagnostics are carried out with the engine idling; The outer radiator sleeve must be clamped and lowered. During normal pump operation, antifreeze pressure will be felt in the hose.
- Large play in the pump ball bearing. This is damage to the ball bearings.
It is necessary to replace the water pump if the car covers 90 thousand km.
Replacing antifreeze or antifreeze
Coolant reservoir
To perform fluid replacement work, you must have a special tool for removing nuts and bolts. Kalina car
must be installed on a flat surface. If this is not possible, try positioning the car so that the front of the car is clearly visible. The work is carried out in a certain sequence.
- Remove the mudguard from the engine.
- Remove the negative battery terminal.
- Tighten the cap from the wide tank.
- Remove the drain plug located on the cylinder block. Place the container under the drain.
- Remove the ignition module with its holder so that it does not leak.
- Remove the drain plug from the radiator battery and wait for the coolant to drain.
- Tighten the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs.
- Remove the fluid hose from the throttle body heater valve by loosening the clamps.
- Pour antifreeze or antifreeze into the conservator until liquid comes out of the hose. Now you can put the hose back in place. After this, continue to fill the system with antifreeze or antifreeze. The liquid must fill the expander so that its level does not exceed 3 cm below the specified mark. Tighten the expander lock.
DIY 8 valve pump replacement.
It is necessary to start the engine and warm it up to the normal operating condition of the electric fan. With the engine off, add coolant to the high line.
Pumps on Kalina
If antifreeze begins to come out of the conservator, the pump must be replaced. We carry out all operations according to the following plan.
- After removing the timing belt cover, use a screwdriver to remove three bolts: the first on the left in the center, two on the back.
- The Kalina engine has eight valves
. The pump pressure must be relieved, but the camshaft gear must be removed first.
replacement done
- Loosen the mounting screws, thereby loosening the belt. The crankshaft gears and pinions are installed according to the markings, so we need to make sure that the loose belt does not jump a few teeth from both gears.
- The gears are removed, then the mounting bolts are two in the middle and three in the bottom. The bottom bolts hold the pump in place.
- The protection is removed, the pump is pulled out using a screwdriver. Mounting connections are free from dirt and rust.
- The pump is installed in the reverse order; Lubricate the car gasket with sealant.
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Pump recommendations
When it is time to replace pumps in viburnum, car enthusiasts do not know which pump to buy so as not to waste money. When purchasing, you need to consult automobile catalogs and read reviews from other car owners about the quality of the pumps you have chosen. Behind the wheel gives reliable information about spare parts for Lada Kalina. You can get acquainted with the test results and test results, opinions of manufacturing companies.
When purchasing, pay attention to the packaging. It must be of high quality, with a warranty card and an indication of the date of manufacture. Seals and seals to protect against damage must also be present. All products have holographic stickers. They must be glued together neatly, without scuffs. The instructions provided must contain general information about the replacement part and briefly describe how to install the specific unit.
The defective item will last about 10 thousand km. If after passing 100 thousand km there are no problems with the pump, we can say that the quality of the purchased product is excellent. The manufacturer installs the TZA pump on Lada Kalina and has a long service life.
Symptoms of a damaged water pump
- Motor overheating - the pump is faulty, the drive belt is not working, the impeller is damaged.
- The temperature arrow indicator is located closer to the middle. You need to stop to check the radiator. In case of inoperability, the unit and pump drive will heat up.
- Noisy, smell of antifreeze in the cabin.
- Low circulation of antifreeze is the result of pump destruction. Diagnosis is carried out with the engine idling; at the same time, you need to clamp and lower the outer radiator hose. During normal operation of the pump, a push of antifreeze in the hose will be felt.
- Large play in the ball bearing of the pump - damage to the ball bearings.
It is necessary to change the water pump if the car's mileage is 90 thousand km.
Instructions for changing the pump on Grant
Even before starting work, the car owner is recommended to read the machine’s operating manual; this will help you study the structure and location of the water pump in more detail. Remember - incorrect reassembly will lead to damage to the antifreeze in the system.
Then you need to prepare a place to work; normally this should be a dry box with a flat floor. Take care of good lighting, this will not only make the process easier, but will also insure you against the loss of small fasteners and small parts.
Replacing antifreeze or antifreeze
Coolant reservoir
To perform fluid replacement work, you need to have special tools on hand to remove nuts and bolts. The Kalina car must be installed on a horizontal, level surface. If this is not possible, you should try to position the car so that its front parts are clearly visible. Work is performed in a certain sequence.
- Remove the engine splash guard.
- Reset the negative terminal of the battery.
- Unscrew the plug from the expansion tank.
- Remove the drain plug located on the cylinder block. Place a container under the drain.
- Remove the ignition module along with the holder, because it interferes with access to the drain.
- Remove the drain plug from the radiator battery and wait for the coolant to drain.
- Tighten the drain plugs of the radiator and cylinder block.
- Remove the hose from the throttle heating fitting to drain the fluid by loosening the clamps.
- Pour antifreeze or antifreeze into the conservator until liquid flows from the removed hose. Now you can put the hose in place. After this, continue to fill the system with antifreeze or antifreeze. The liquid should fill the expander so that its level is a maximum of 3 cm below the specified level. Tighten the expander lock.
You need to start the engine and warm it up until the electric fan is in normal operating condition. After turning off the car engine, add coolant to the top line.
How is the pump replaced on a Priora?
Replacing the Priora water pump. Warning! Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft after the camshaft drive belt has been removed, otherwise the piston may hit the valves. Wear of the pump bearing (indicated by increased noise during operation) and leakage of coolant from the pump are the main defects of the water pump.
As a rule, repairing the water pump does not lead to the desired result, so it is recommended to replace the pump assembly. Replacing the pump is a procedure for performing actions that you can do yourself.
- You need to disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
- Next, you should drain the coolant.
- Then the piston of the first cylinder is set to the top dead center position.
- Then the tension roller is removed.
- The camshaft toothed pulley is removed behind the tension roller.
- It is necessary to unscrew the 4 bolts and the fastening nut and start removing the rear cover of the camshaft drive belt.
Pumps on Kalina
If antifreeze begins to leave the expander, it means that the pump needs to be replaced. We carry out all operations according to the following plan.
- The timing belt protection shell is removed, using a screwdriver, three bolts are pulled out: the left one in the center, two in the back.
- The Kalina engine has eight valves. The protection that presses the pump needs to be removed, but first you need to remove the camshaft gear.
Pump replacement completed
- Unscrew the fastening screws, thereby loosening the strap. The crankshaft and timing gears are aligned according to marks, so you need to try to ensure that the loose belt does not jump several teeth on both gears.
- The timing gears are removed, then the fastening protection bolts - two middle, three lower. The bottom bolts hold the pump.
- The protection is dismantled and the pump is pulled out using a screwdriver. The fastening joints are cleaned of dirt and rust.
- Installation of the pump is carried out in the reverse order, the gasket is lubricated with sealant.
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Work plan for replacing the Lada Kalina pump
Remove the timing belt protection cover. It is secured with 3 bolts - one on the left center, two on the back side.
Now we need to remove the camshaft gear, since it will prevent the removal of the iron protection that presses the pump itself. This is the peculiarity of the 8-valve Kalin engines.
Unscrew the nut securing the tension roller and loosen the belt as much as possible. Let's move on to the gear. When removing, do not lose the key; try to do everything so that the belt does not jump a couple of teeth from both the crankshaft gear and the timing gear. Otherwise, you will have to install both gears according to the marks, and this is problematic.
Having removed the timing gear, unscrew the bolts securing the protection - two in the middle and three at the bottom. The bottom 3 also hold the pump itself.
We take out the protection. Having picked up the pump a little with a screwdriver, we pull it out too. We clean the place where the pump is mounted on the engine from the remains of the old gasket and dirt.
We install the new pump in the reverse order. If desired, the gasket can be coated with sealant for greater reliability.
Recommendations for choosing a pump
When the time comes to replace the pump on Kalina, car enthusiasts do not know which pump to buy so as not to throw money away. When purchasing, you need to refer to car catalogs and read reviews from other car owners about the quality of the pumps they have chosen. The magazine "Behind the Wheel" provides truthful information about spare parts for the Lada Kalina. You can get acquainted with tests and inspection results, opinions about manufacturing companies.
When purchasing, pay attention to the packaging. It must be of high quality, with a warranty card and an indication of the date of manufacture. Seals and gaskets to protect against damage must also be present. All products have holographic stickers. They must be glued neatly, without scuffs. The attached instructions should contain general information about the spare part and briefly describe how to install a particular unit.
A defective item will last approximately 10 thousand km. If there are no problems with the pump after covering 100 thousand km, we can say that the quality of the purchased product is excellent. The manufacturer installs a TZA pump on the Lada Kalina; it has a long service life.
Replacing the pump on a Kalina car
pump is a pump responsible for circulating water through cooling. The unit is located in the front part of the cylinder block. If the pump is deficient, the motor overheats, which leads to boiling and breakdowns.
Changing the pump on a Lada Granta with your own hands
Lada Granta (VAZ 2190–2191) is very popular among Russian motorists. Like any car, it requires periodic maintenance. Often, owners avoid contacting service and repair their cars themselves. Therefore, many will be interested to know what difficulties will be encountered in the process of replacing the water pump on a car of the Granta family.
- 1 What is a pump in a car engine
- 2 Signs of a faulty water pump
- 3 Changing the pump 3.1 Tools
- 3.2 Step-by-step instructions for replacing the pump on cars of the Lada-Granta family
- 3.3 Video: replacing the pump on a VAZ injection engine
Characteristics of the device, symptoms of failure
This is what the pump for Kalina looks like
The pump works in conjunction with the engine. It ensures uninterrupted operation of the fuel supply and cooling systems. The first one carries out the transfer of fuel from the tank to the engine, the second one forces the pumping of antifreeze or antifreeze.
The water pump-impeller, located on the shaft, is covered by a housing. The shaft has ball bearings at both ends and rotates due to a rotating moment by means of a belt attached to the engine.
See:
Symptoms of a water pump failure:
Fuel pump: design features
Carburetor cars had mechanical pumps. The drive or shtof pushed the diaphragm, in the process a vacuum was created and fuel entered the carburetor. Currently, virtually all cars have an injection engine and an electronic pump. It delivers hot food at high speed and maintains steady pressure in the system. The electric motor, together with the working rotor, pushes the fuel. The pump is located in the gasoline tank itself. During operation, fuel becomes coolant and lubricant. There are car models that have two pumps: the main one is under the hood, the worker is located in the fuel tank.
- ODS is the main method of protecting a machine. This is a closed-type forced circulation liquid. If the interior heating device supplies cold air, but the Kalina engine overheats, it means that there is a malfunction in the operation of the car. Components of the system:
- special motor shell;
- heat exchanger with electric fan;
- device for maintaining a constant temperature;
- suction device;
- expansion tank;
- contact tubes.
By looking into the plastic expansion tank, you can visually control the amount of antifreeze and antifreeze. There are special marks for the highest and lowest levels of liquids in the tank. Outside the tank, there is a pipe at the top for connecting to the heat exchanger sleeve, and at the bottom with a filling tube.
2. Installing a pump on the Lada Kalina engine
This video was processed in YouTube Video Editor ()
Replacement of the water pump, Lada KALINA. Replacing antifreeze (coolant)
The stove in the car does not heat. I changed the thermostat, removed the air locks, but nothing helps. Night car on.
The cooling system consists of a radiator battery and a throttle heating unit. The circulation of antifreeze or antifreeze here occurs continuously, regardless of the location of the coolant valve.
Repair of fuel level sensor Lada Kalina
One of the problems that often happens with a Lada Kalina car is incorrect fuel level readings. As a rule, this is due to a malfunction or failure of the fuel level sensor. Moreover, you don’t always need to change it, you can try to clean it - in most cases this helps. In other words, repairing the sensor consists of cleaning it.
In order to get to the Lada Kalina fuel sensor, you need to remove the fuel pump. First, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, lift the back seat, bend the noise suppressor and remove the cover by unscrewing the four screws. After this, disconnect the fuel hoses of the fuel pump by pressing the clamps inward and disconnect the power plug.
Then we turn the pressure ring counterclockwise and remove it. Now you can get the fuel pump. Under its top cover there is a contact connector, which is held on by a latch. Press the latch and remove the connector. Then we remove the terminal from the pressure regulator, simply moving it up along the slide, and remove the contact connector from the fuel level sensor. Now you can press out the two clamps that secure the fuel level sensor to the fuel pump bulb and remove it.
Some sensor contacts may be coated or simply oxidized, but it is better to clean everything. To do this you need to use a sandpaper. Also, for preventive purposes, it is better to clean all the contacts that we have freed. After cleaning, wipe them with a dry cloth. In order not to remove the fuel pump once again, it is worth checking the float.
It happens that gasoline gets into it and it doesn’t float well - this causes incorrect fuel level readings. You just need to remove the float from the handle, pour gasoline into a small container and lower it into it. If it is more than half immersed in gasoline, then you need to install a new one. Before installing a new one, it is also better to check it - there is always a risk of manufacturing defects. The entire assembly is carried out in reverse order.
If, after assembling and installing the fuel pump, the fuel level readings remain the same, this may be due to the control unit. You can try disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery again and wait a few minutes. The control unit will reset and everything should fall into place.
Sources
- https://1ladakalina.ru/komplektuyuschie/rele-benzonasosa.html
- https://expertvaz.ru/lada-kalina/osobennosti-benzonasos.html
- https://tuningvaz.in/remont-datchika-urovnya-topliva-lada-kalina/
Symptoms of a damaged water pump
- The motor is overheating, the pump is faulty, the drive belt is not working, the impeller is damaged.
- The temperature arrow indicator is located closer to the middle. You need to stop to check the radiator. In case of inoperability, the unit and pump drive will heat up.
- Noisy, smell of antifreeze in the cabin.
- Low circulation of antifreeze is the result of pump destruction. Diagnosis is carried out with the engine idling; at the same time, you need to clamp and lower the outer radiator hose. During normal operation of the pump, a push of antifreeze in the hose will be felt.
- Large play in the ball bearing of the pump damages the ball bearings.
It is necessary to change the water pump if the car's mileage is 90 thousand km.
To avoid being blown up by a mine, it is enough to know where it is laid. Let's play sapper and find out when you really need to change coolant pumps and timing belts on VAZ engines.
Domestic engines for Grant, Kalin, Prior, Vest and Iksreev, with the exception of VAZ-11183, belong to the “plug-in” category. What this means is that when the timing belt breaks, the pistons meet the valves. Read - it exploded and led the engine to destruction, which was expensive to repair.
How to check the serviceability of the pump on a car
Timely diagnostics of the pump allows you to avoid costly repairs or problems with constant overheating of the engine. To answer the question of how to check the pump’s performance yourself, let’s consider diagnostic methods using the example of domestic VAZ cars (model 2109, 2110).
Let's start with the fact that the pump is a kind of “consumable”, which on cars with a pump driven by a timing belt is recommended to be changed every 60 thousand kilometers traveled or 48 months, whichever comes first. These are the regulatory requirements of many automakers.
In simple words, a good pump lasts as long as two timing belts last. It is also worth adding that using spare parts or low-quality antifreeze, mixing different types of coolant, etc. can lead to pump failure ahead of schedule. For this reason, it is advisable to check the pump regularly.
How to check the pump's operation
You should check the water pump on your car using a common method. For diagnostics on a VAZ and a large number of other cars, the engine should be warmed up until it reaches operating temperatures.
- After warming up, you need to hand pinch the upper pipe coming from the radiator. If the pump is working properly, then the coolant pressure created by the pump will be felt. This is the main answer to the question of how to check whether the pump is working or not without removing the pump from the car. During such a check, care must be taken, since the coolant in the system gets very hot. If the fluid pulsation is weak or absent, then you should proceed to a detailed inspection.
- To check, you need to remove the protective casing of the gas distribution mechanism, which will allow for a visual inspection. If the rubber seal (pump seal) in the area of the seat begins to leak, then drips of antifreeze or antifreeze will be visible. Also, leakage and problems with the pump will be indicated by deposits around the seat, which may have a reddish-brown or grayish color. If they are present, you need to drain the antifreeze and remove the pump for troubleshooting and replacement.
- If engine operation is accompanied by a characteristic “howling” sound, then the problem may be in the pump bearing. In this case, the pump is checked for play in the shaft area. To check by hand, you can rock the pump drive gear. In some cases, you can replace the worn bearing or immediately install a new pump.
Engine valves VAZ-21116
The average consumer has access to only those that come with the car from official documents. What follows from them? Open the Grants service book. Replacing the timing belt - at 75 thousand kilometers for an 8-valve engine, not a word about the 16-valve belt! The same situation is with Kalina - I came across a book where there is nothing to say about one engine, but on the other we only check the condition of the belt, but there is no talk of a planned replacement. It’s even more fun with the Priora - there are service books where there is not a word at all about the gas distribution mechanism, but the air conditioning compressor belt is mentioned in almost every maintenance coupon.
With Vesta and Xray, progress is obvious - at 45, 75, 105, 135 and 165 thousand we adjust the gaps in the gas distribution mechanism. And for the first time we plan to remember the timing belt along with the rollers for 180 thousand kilometers! This is for 16-valve engines VAZ-21129, 21179 and 8-valve Vesta VAZ-11189. I can’t do without the quote: “2.11. Replace the timing belt along with the rollers. 2.12. Replace the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Replace the toothed belt, tensioner and support roller (for the VAZ-11189 8-cl. engine, only the tensioner) of the engine gas distribution mechanism drive. Adjust the tension of the toothed belt." Not only is the oil oil (we change the same belt twice), but of all the parts, they didn’t remember the most vulnerable one - the pump!
Differences in replacing the pump on a Lada Granta with an eight- and sixteen-valve engine
There are no major differences in the design of the eight- and sixteen-valve engines with which the Grants are equipped. Therefore, the procedure for changing the pump on these types of engines differs only in one thing: the 8-valve unit has one crankshaft pulley, and the 16-valve unit has two.
Consequently, the work of dismantling and subsequent installation of the pump on a car with a 16-valve power unit will take more time, however, the work process itself and the sequence of its implementation will be absolutely similar to the process of replacing a water pump on an 8-valve engine.
Engine Cooling Water Pump
Here it is, a mine - a water pump. Refers to the cooling system, but is driven by a timing belt. If the pump wedges due to the death of the bearing, it will cut off the teeth on the belt, and then there will be destruction in the motor. And they “forgot” to mention this detail in the routine maintenance section of all service books. What to do with it? The consumer can only guess. Should we wait for death from natural wear and tear on a plug-in motor? Stupidity. And if changed, then when? It seems that the mine is not even the water pump itself, but the complete disregard for it in all the official VAZ “literature” for the consumer.
New VAZ engines are now equipped with high-quality timing belts from well-known brands. I believe that if no oil gets on it, it will cost 180 thousand. But is the difference in components really so great that on the 8-valve VAZ-11186 for Granta the belt must be changed at the 75th thousand, and on its closest relative VAZ-11189 at the 180th?
Let's continue the research. The pulleys are not demolished at all. Pressure roller bearing up to 180 thousand? Let's admit it, although it's hard to believe. But why change all this equipment at the 180th thousand, if the estimated life of the engine is 220 thousand km? Refresh before demise or major overhaul? If you don’t believe me, look at the photo taken in the workshops where VAZ engines are produced.
Routine maintenance for VAZ engines.
Nowadays, new engines also use Korean pumps, which are rumored to be of better quality. But even if you cut me, not a single pump of 200 thousand comes out. I do not believe! Moreover, I see complete confusion in the service books, the lack of a unified approach to servicing the same gas distribution mechanisms from model to model and, most importantly, an indifferent attitude towards the consumer. Not from all factory workers - from those who are responsible for a specific direction and are killing the work of other creators of cars at the Volga Automobile Plant with stupid pieces of paper. But if the charge is planted, and the specialists did not help, then we will clear the mines ourselves.
Korean-made coolant pump for VAZ-21179 engine
The owner of any elderly foreign car with a timing belt will confirm that repairmen insist that during a scheduled belt change, they replace both the pump and the pressure rollers with bearing assemblies. And these parts are often sold as a set. Moreover, at a discount - the whole set is cheaper than the belt, rollers, and pump separately.
I don’t want to once again convince you that the stingy pays twice, but over the years I have come to the conclusion that Western manufacturers include in the regulations changing the belt not because of the belt as such, but because of the pump and tensioner bearings. They just needed a reason to reliably replace the entire set of parts associated with the camshaft drive, and they found it.
I propose to do the same with our engines. Why? Formally, at each maintenance it would be necessary to remove the cover and inspect the timing belt and water pump. You can see a tear in the belt, as well as a leak on the pump. In both cases, the part is changed without delay. But this is a malfunction. And if everything is outwardly normal, the ideal option is to include preventive replacement in the regulations.
The process of replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve Lada Kalina
As with any repair, you should start by looking for tools. So, to replace the timing belt and pulley of the Lada Kalina 8-valves you will need:
- Wrench 17 (open-end and socket).
- Head for 10.
- Flathead screwdriver.
- Special key for tensioning.
When you have decided on the necessary tool, you can proceed directly to replacement:
- To make it easier to replace the timing kit, the alternator belt should be removed.
- Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the timing case and remove the cover.
Removed the timing belt cover
We combine the marks. Rotate the right front wheel with your hands until the marks touch
We remove the pulley. Very detailed in this photo
Removed the timing belt
Thus, it can be seen that replacing the timing belt and pulley on the Lada Kalina 8 valves is quite easy. On average, this process takes up to 4 hours.
Belt and roller selection
The quality of the timing belt and pulley plays an important role in engine performance.
Experienced Kalinovods from our community do not recommend that you take a Dayco timing belt. The photo shows a DAYCO belt with a mileage of 20,000 km.
At the same time, the choice should be approached carefully and thoroughly. The operation of the injection and exhaust gas systems depends on their high-quality and complex work. Since the timing belt and roller are considered consumables, therefore they change more often than the main parts of the power unit.
Article number and price of the belt
So, let's look at the original and non-original timing system parts that can be installed on the 8-valve Lada Kalina.
21126-1006040 is the original timing belt article number , which is produced by the AvtoVAZ plant. At the same time, it is considered reliable with a service life of up to 30 thousand km. The average market price is 1300 rubles.
There are quite a lot of analogues of the original part on the spare parts market. Some of them are of better quality than the original timing belt for the 8-valve Kalina. Let's look at which manufacturers make non-original spare parts for the gas distribution mechanism for VAZ -1117-1119 8 valves.
Table indicating manufacturers, articles and prices
Manufacturer's name | Catalog number | Average price in the Russian Federation in rubles |
Master-Sport | 1137-SD-PCS-MS | 570 |
Grand prix | JH8025 | 800 |
LYNXauto | 137FL22 | 960 |
Hola | TH1372 | 1000 |
Contitech | CT1137 | 1280 |
Finwhale | BD137 | 1550 |
Dayco | 941071 | 1650 |
Bosch | 1 987 949 662 | 1860 |
Gates | 5631XS | 2150 |
Luzar | LTB0127 | 2280 |
Optibelt | ZRK1593 | 3340 |
Pilenga (belt+roller) | CT-P1137 | 4720 |
Trialli (belt+roller) | GD770 | 5060 |
New Bosch timing belt
As you can see from the table, the choice of non-original timing belt is quite large. Every car enthusiast will be able to choose for his 8-valve Lada Kalina the option that he considers most acceptable.