Video of a Chevrolet Niva driving through mud


Chains vs MT

Chains vs MT

Post by hpionodav » 09 Sep 2010, 21:36

A common situation: I went fishing - I drove 100 km along the asphalt to the desired area, but got stuck 300 m in front of a pond - it’s a shame. Options: 1. Riding on mud all the time for the sake of 300 meters or a couple of creepy puddles is not practical. 2. It’s a shame to drive on the highway and get screwed right at the goal (why bother with Niff).

Maybe there is a universal alternative to CHAINS.

Let's talk about the pros, cons, nuances, etc.

Re: Chains

Post by Shashel » 09 Sep 2010, 22:52

Re: Chains

Post by hpionodav » 09 Sep 2010, 23:03

I haven’t sat down yet, but I will definitely sit down someday

The tires are two sets of Kama Fly and Vli5, but the wheels are the same, why should I re-bar the tires in the forest? And it’s not the tires that mattered. forums, so many people, so many opinions.

Therefore, I propose to discuss the chance tool CHAINS.

or

Re: Chains

Post by Shashel » 09 Sep 2010, 23:11

Re: Chains

Post by hpionodav » Sep 10, 2010, 00:13

Ta-nooo! There are a lot of these conversations in the tire thread, one has a winter tire, another has a mud one, one has been driving for 4 years, the other almost had an accident, one has a super ride, the other and I only go to work on asphalt. I'll try again: 1. spring - the road supper arrived at the place between the Boltse lakes, but wanted to go further because in the near area, the entire regional center and half of the district are fishing (the distance of the narrow section is 15m). 2. summer - the road supper arrived at the place to the water 150m, but it rained for a week, but it seemed like he came for fishing, and not for a ride. 3. autumn is the season. The road supper arrived at the place, 300m remained, but 10 UAZs and 20 smuggling Urals had already been there. 4. winter - the road super arrived to the place, but the road to the reservoir 154 m was not cleared after the last 3 snowfalls.

CHAINS - as a chance tool, pros, cons, nuances, etc.

Watch how the Niva drives through the mud

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Driving off-road in a VAZ 21214 requires the driver to have certain knowledge and experience. Often, owners of all-wheel drive cars are gambling people who are prone to risk. And if a difficult ride takes you to some bad place, then having experience driving in extreme Russian off-road conditions will come in handy.

An important rule that will help you when driving off-road: turn on all the mechanisms for increasing cross-country ability. It is necessary to engage the reduction gear and the front axle. But this doesn't always help. At such moments, a tractor or another SUV will help.

The Niva (VAZ 2121 or Lada 4x4) has been produced since 1977, despite the fact that the car is morally outdated, it is very popular not only in Russia, but also abroad. It is no secret that the Niva is an all-terrain vehicle (small-class all-terrain vehicle) with permanent all-wheel drive. Do you know what its real capabilities are in the mud?

An expedition was organized to test the cross-country ability of SUVs in mud and snow. The test participants were Russian SUVs Niva, UAZ 452, 469 “loaf” and some foreign cars (Range Rover Discovery, Nissan Patrol, etc.). Video recording:

Niva through the mud on chains

Picture from life

October last year. North of the Tula region, Pakhomovo station of the Kursk railway - the place where the asphalt ends on the road to my dacha. Ahead are 10 km of clay dirt roads, broken by Kirov and Urals, crossed by ravines, etc., etc. Puddles, rain. I finish putting the chains on all four wheels. A local drunk approaches, swaying. He stood, looked, shook his head in admiration, said one word: “Tank!” — and went off into the drizzling rain.

Four years ago, the first time I left the asphalt onto a rain-soaked clay dirt road gave me a shock. The car (21213 on VLI-5) was not controlled at all, it went where it wanted, it was guided by a rut. Fortunately, the track after the K-700 and Urals is wide enough so as not to lie on your belly - only wheels on one side were traveling in it. It was completely impossible to get out of it - like a tram on rails or like a cow on ice. So we had to push forward as hard as we could, not paying attention to the holes and impacts from below - the car stuck with its belly along the sodden humps of the rut. My wife and cat flew screaming around the cabin :-)

By the end of the first summer season, I purchased chains, and the problem of getting to the dacha in bad weather was solved. The summer before last in Tula (it was in the newspapers) a month's worth of precipitation (50-60 mm) fell in one day. In the evening of this very day I successfully passed. Over the past four seasons, I've stuck the car in such a way that I couldn't get out myself three times. And all three times - without chains.

A dirt road swollen after rains, the muddy bottom of a reservoir, etc. can be represented as a solid base (bottom), above which the viscosity of the mud gradually decreases - until the upper layer is completely liquid. The wheel pushes through the upper layers and rides on the hard bottom. At the same time, the tread becomes clogged with semi-liquid (even almost solid) dirt and becomes smooth. This smooth surface is also lubricated with liquid mud from the upper layers. What kind of soil adhesion are we talking about? Even on the VLI-5, the spaces between the tread teeth (about 35 mm) are completely clogged, and the wheel becomes literally polished.

The gaps between the chain jumpers of 200-250 mm will never be clogged with anything. The wheel presses them into the hard bottom layer, which ensures good traction with the soil and good controllability of the machine. Even chains only on the front wheels significantly increase the Niva’s cross-country ability, and if equipped with all four wheels, it can break through literally everywhere.

The chains are also good for driving in snow. At the KUK-trophy, also known as Kamenka-2000, the Agafontus&TigerD crew rode on my chains and were among the few who successfully completed the entire route.

I didn’t try to drive on ice, but I did drive a few hundred meters on concrete (to the nearest puddle - so that there was a place to wash my hands after removing the chains). It’s very unpleasant - it shakes a lot, and you can actually feel the chains chewing rubber.

The Izvestia newspaper on January 16, 2001 published an article by Evgeniy Konstantinov, “Horseshoes for Wheels,” about testing chains. I present the contents of the article in a brief summary.

On Niva cars (VAZ-2121, VLI-5 tires) and Renault-19 (Cleber 175/70 R13 winter tires). domestic chains (“ladder”, more about these chains are written below) and galvanized Finnish honeycomb chains (“honeycomb”, price $50) were tested. In addition, Niva tried galvanized imported chains (“ladder”, the manufacturer was not specified, the price was 1,650 rubles per set), but they immediately broke.

The tests were carried out at an air and snow temperature of 0 degrees on an icy country road littered with fresh snow. The thickness of the snow cover is 10-20 cm.

On a flat road, the Niva without chains with the locking switched on moved confidently in a straight line, but at speeds over 30 km/h it stopped obeying the steering wheel. It was also impossible to get out of the rut - the Niva did not react to steering wheel turns. Renault completely lost to Niva under the same conditions. On the hill, both cars were unable to move - they were simply polishing the snow-covered ice.

With domestic chains, Renault confidently passed virgin soil with a depth of up to 15 cm and started from the middle of the climb. Only a half-meter snowdrift stopped him, and the chains quickly dug deep holes under the wheels.

The Niva with chains on the rear wheels moved freely on virgin soil to a depth of 30 centimeters, and on the front wheels - up to half a meter. With “honeycomb” the car listens to the steering wheel better and gets out of the rut, but the difference between “honeycomb” and “ladder” is small.

The description of the Niva’s behavior in an icy rut is in excellent agreement with my observations: the Niva behaves in the same way in a wet clay rut.

Chains or toothy tires?

The typical structure of a trip on a Niva: first a long time on asphalt, then several kilometers on dirt. Fishing, hunting, mushrooms, a trip to the country - almost always the route is divided into two unequal parts, both of which need to be passed. And preferably both with sufficient comfort.

Therefore, I consider the recommendations usually given at the conference to improve the Niva’s cross-country ability - to wear mud tires VLI-5, I-569 or similar - to be fundamentally wrong. Heavy mud tires cannot provide comfort and safety on the highway: it increases acceleration time and braking distance, and the same VLI-5 hums at speeds over 40 km/h. It only makes sense to wear shoes if the Niva is constantly used off-road.

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DRIVING ON THE SAND

Whatever they say, sand is one of the most treacherous types of off-road: it is difficult to name a surface that would cause so many troubles for motorists. Yes, digging a car out of a sand dune is more pleasant and easier than from a mud swamp - there is no doubt about it, and this is perhaps the only positive point. Another difficulty in overcoming sandy areas is that success here depends not only on the driver’s skills, but also on the equipment of the car and its individual characteristics.

It is worth recognizing that the Niva is generally larger, and with a 1600 cc engine. cm - in particular, it feels uncomfortable on the sand: the high-speed VAZ-2106 passenger engine does not indulge the driver with torque. Upgraded 1700 cc engine. cm (especially with a fuel injection system) in this sense is noticeably better, and yet diesel has the most optimal performance from the point of view of traveling on sand - the ability to produce high torque at low speeds comes in handy here.

But a high-torque engine is not everything. The most important thing is the tires. It is they who play the most important role when moving on sand.

Unfortunately, the range of domestic off-road “footwear” for the Niva is very scarce: until recently, only two tires were on sale - the “mud” VLI-5 and the universal VLI-10. It should be borne in mind that neither one nor the other provides reliable movement along the sand; however, if there is nothing else to choose from, it makes sense to choose a tire with a universal pattern. If, for a number of reasons, you are forced to leave VLI-5 tires on your car, do not forget to reduce the pressure in them to one atmosphere.

In general, for sand it is better to have imported tires - wider and softer. If possible, choose a tread pattern that is not “evil”, because developed lugs on loose soils only cause harm: in case of slipping, they help the car to bury itself up to its “belly”.

Now let's talk about the technique for overcoming sandy areas. Remember the main rule: no matter how harmless the sandy “bald patch” may seem to you, always and be sure to engage the differential lock and low gear in the transfer case in advance.

It is better to walk through small areas of sand. Keep the front wheels straight at first, and attempt to turn (of course, only if necessary!) only when you feel that the Niva is moving confidently without losing speed. Always try to turn very smoothly, with a large radius.

A very typical mistake: when storming a sandy slope, under no circumstances allow the Niva to fall on its side!

If you have the opportunity to choose, it is better to move on wet sand: the higher its humidity, the denser it is and, accordingly, has less resistance to the rolling of the wheels. It is for this reason that it makes sense to cross the coastal sections of reservoirs, moving closer to the water. And God forbid you frolic on the beach! Fountains of sand from under the wheels look, of course, very beautiful, but the end of this kind of ride is not the most pleasant - digging out the car can take half a day.-

Since you still decide to frolic in this way, make sure you have a long rope, a shovel and a tractor

But even in a wet area, where the Niva moves more than confidently, you may be caught in a trap in the form of “quicksands” or “quicks.” Keep in mind that stopping on a sandbank leads to the car being quickly sucked into great depths, and, as a rule, it is not possible to get out without outside help. There is only one way out - to overcome such sections at the highest possible speed, having previously reduced the air pressure in the tires to 0.8-1 atm. And under no circumstances stop!

For a forced stop, choose these “oases”

On loose sand, try to cling to any, even inconspicuous, islands of vegetation with your wheels, and if you can see a track laid by someone, be sure to use it - the sand here is compacted. Do not forget, however, to compare the depth of the track and the amount of ground clearance of the Niva.

If a situation arises where you need to stop, do it on a slope or an island of greenery. After this, start off in first gear (using, of course, the lower row of the transfer case), very smoothly releasing the clutch pedal and holding the minimum stable engine speed. If you feel that the Niva has moved confidently, engage second gear, but you shouldn’t go further than that on dry sand. Moreover, you should not use the upper row of the transmission, even if the car is moving with a clear reserve of traction: if road conditions suddenly worsen (you hit quicksand, for example), the engine will begin to “chop” and, in order to increase the torque on the wheels, you will have to use a range multiplier . It will not be possible to do this without stopping, and stopping, as we have already found out, is fraught with big troubles.

In the most extreme case, when movement is very difficult, try reducing the pressure in the wheels even more, to 0.5-0.8 atm.

This is the lower limit at which a tube tire can operate, so when starting off on low tires, be doubly careful: the tire can spin on the rim and tear the tube.

After driving through a dangerous area, do not forget to bring the pressure to normal.

The most important thing when storming sandy slopes is to overcome the obstacle with a reserve of speed, “head-on”, and avoid positions where the car is tilting heavily. Significant rolls lead to heaps of sand sliding and heating in front of the wheels.

If possible, try to move on wet sand

When performing any maneuver, launch the Niva at its maximum radius

Well, what if you finally “sat down”? If the wheels are buried in the sand and the Niva has stopped moving, do not skid under any circumstances - you will only make things worse. Try clearing the sand in front of all the wheels. Fortunately, you can rake sand with more than just a shovel.

If this does not help, you can resort to using a jack. Place a board or several stones under its support platform and, hanging out all the wheels one by one, place branches or boards under them. Please note that you should move off carefully after this so as not to throw them out from under the wheels.

As soon as you move, gradually add gas. so that when driving onto the sand there is already a reserve of speed.

DRIVING IN MUD

Let's immediately agree that by the concept of “dirt” we will mean wet and slippery soil (chernozem, clay, etc.) of varying viscosity.

This is the most common off-road option in Russia - something, and we have enough dirt everywhere.

The “toothy” VLI-5 tires perform best in mud, but with some experience, the universal VLI-10 tires can be used quite successfully.

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