Replacing heater fan brushes in Renault Logan

Causes of malfunction

There can be many nuances that the heater motor has begun to work poorly. Among them are two main ones that can be helped by a small repair rather than a complete replacement of the fan. The commutator brushes may well wear out. The brushes themselves, in turn, can “gnaw through” the copper lamellas of the collector, which is why it does not want to work, and the heater motor “goes silent.”

Although this happens quite rarely, brass sleeves of plain bearings can squeak or whistle. Repairs are made by regular lubrication, although this usually helps for a short time; sooner or later the electric motor will need to be replaced. So, if you still have to get to the furnace fan, perhaps replacing it completely will be the best solution. In addition, it saves your time.

Electric heater fan for VAZ 2110 old model

On VAZ 2110 cars, the ventilation is supply and exhaust, that is, the air itself is supplied inside the cabin using special holes in the windshield trim, and then, passing through the cabin, it exits through the cracks between the upholstery and door panels. There are also air vents at the end of the door. However, such ventilation has its drawbacks and without a good heater it will be very difficult in winter, especially in Russia. Therefore, all modern VAZ cars are equipped with heating systems.

The heating system is quite complex, but at the same time it is much easier to understand than other car systems. One of the parts of this system is the VAZ 2110 heater fan, which often fails. The fan is installed on the heater motor. The fan ensures proper air circulation. If the car begins to warm up poorly, then the fan may be one of the possible reasons.

Why might the VAZ 2110 heater fan not work? Firstly, the fuse may simply blow. It will be enough to replace it and the fan will work again. Another reason may be poor contact in the mounting block. The ignition relay may be stuck. It often happens that the fan starts working only at a certain speed. Then it's worth checking the resistors. Another reason could be a burnt-out heater motor.

We identify the cause of the breakdown

First, you need to figure out the reason why the stove fan is not working. There may be several of them.

  1. A faulty fuse is the most common, simple and most common reason that the motor does not turn. On the one hand, replacing a fuse is not a big and difficult problem, which can be easily handled even by a beginner. But on the other hand, it will be necessary to find the reason why the fuse has become unusable. And to do this, you will need to examine the electrical circuit that ensures the normal operation of the heating system for the presence of a short circuit. Since we are talking about fuses, it would be useful to know that the operation of the stove on the VAZ-2110 depends on fuse F7 with a current strength of 30 amperes. Also, the operation of this fuse determines the illumination of the glove compartment, the functioning of the cigarette lighter, the electric motor from the headlight washer and the heated rear window. If a short circuit is not found in the electrical circuit of the heating system, then the cause will need to be looked for throughout the wiring.
  2. Problems with the contacts that are located inside the mounting block are a common reason for the VAZ heater motor not working. To identify this problem, you can move the block with the attached harnesses while the car is running. If the VAZ-2110 heater fan starts working, then it is necessary to remove the block and clean the contacts.

  1. A flooded relay may also be one of the reasons why the heater fan does not work. Diagnosing this problem is very simple: the fan will turn on only after the car has warmed up well. In this case, you will need to replace the relay, which is hidden behind the dashboard.
  2. The heater electric motor can only operate when the third speed is activated. This situation is explained by the nature of the current supply to the fan: at speeds 1 and 2 this process is implemented through a resistor, and at speed 3 - directly. Consequently, if the heating does not work at the first two speeds, then the reason lies precisely in the resistor, which must be replaced.
  3. The malfunction of the switch can be identified as follows: after removing the center console, start the car, take a large 12-volt light bulb with soldered wires, connect the negative wire from it to the body and touch the second wire to contacts 1, 2 and 3 on the additional resistor. When the light comes on, it indicates that the switch is working properly. But if the light bulb does not light up, then you will need to connect the wire from the light bulb to the positive terminal on the switch. If there is no light on the light bulb, you can talk about an open circuit or a faulty fuse.

Work to replace the fan in the cabin

Replacing the heater motor of a VAZ 2110

The subsequent change of the heater motor will be done directly from inside the car:

Under the dashboard you need to find the block that goes to the electric motor. She disconnects. After this, you will need to unfasten the ground wiring of the electric motor. As a rule, it is pressed to the body by the front mounting nut of the heater. The trim and lining of the windshield frame are dismantled, and you cannot do without unscrewing the mounting screws. The right upholstery is removed from the interior heater, and the fastening nuts and screws should also be unscrewed. Heating hoses are disconnected

At this stage of work, extreme caution must be taken, since antifreeze residues may leak from these hoses and the heater radiator. To prevent the smell of coolant in the car interior, you need to lay a material that absorbs moisture well.

The wiring is disconnected from the electric motor, from the micro-reducer, and also from the pneumatic valve. After these steps, remove the front housing with the stove casing

These elements are fixed with brackets and screws. It is worth noting that the engine and motor are located on the casing. The latches are removed, and the engine and motor are removed

Recommendations for replacing the motor

Replacing the heater motor of a VAZ 2110

You can disassemble the electric motor yourself only to evaluate the collector and clean it. If the cause of the breakdown lies in another situation, then it is not advisable for a non-specialist in working with such parts to disassemble it. It is better to buy a new electric motor.

Note! It is also not recommended to dismantle the engine impeller on your own, since when it is installed in its place, the balancing, which plays an important role, will be disrupted. Naturally, the electric motor will function, but not smoothly, which can lead to breakage of the bearings and noise when the stove is turned on.

Since the stove is in a disassembled state, it becomes possible to calmly view the other components of the cabin heater. So:

  • In order for more heat to come from the radiator, you need to dismantle it and wash it. It is fixed on the rear casing of the heater, which is removed by unscrewing the mounting screws. After this, the radiator can be easily removed and washed under the pressure of water flowing from a hose that is connected to the radiator inlet or outlet tube. The same pressure washes away dirt from the surfaces of the removed radiator.
  • To disassemble the air ducts and heater control mechanisms, you will need to remove the instrument panel on which the main air ducts are located.

Note! Usually the panel with the main air ducts is made as one piece, so it must be handled with the utmost care so that it does not have to be replaced later. After this, you need to remove the interior air ducts, which are secured with special screws, and the decorative lining of the floor tunnel. After this, you need to remove the interior air ducts, which are secured with special screws, and the decorative lining of the floor tunnel

After this, you need to remove the interior air ducts, which are secured with special screws, and the decorative lining of the floor tunnel.

Note! Under this trim there are air ducts for heating the feet, which are attached to the body with screws and latches.

  • The air distributor is removed from the dashboard by unscrewing the mounting screws and disconnecting the damper control rod.
  • Reassembly must be done in the reverse order of disassembly. If necessary, fix the damper seals with glue. You can also seal the attachment points of the hoses with the radiator with sealant.
  • When all the parts are assembled and installed in their places, the functioning of all components is checked and antifreeze or antifreeze is added. It all depends on personal preference.
  • At the final stage, they check the tightness of the attachment of the hoses to the radiator and the actual operation of the assembled stove.

For those who perceive information visually, it is recommended to watch a video with a detailed description of the actions and several photos that will help you do everything correctly.

Repair work can be carried out with your own hands, but subject to clear instructions. This will help you save a lot of money, because the price for services of this kind in car services is not cheap.

Stove fan

Structurally, the fan consists of a DC electric motor with a commutator-brush assembly and an impeller mounted on the electric rotor. motor. The electric motor is powered from the vehicle’s on-board network. There are several modes of fan operation, the difference between which comes down only to the rotor rotation speed, and this is realized by inserting a resistor into the power supply circuit of the electric motor.


The fan operating mode is set using a handle located in the heater control unit on the center console. Initially, on the VAZ-2110, this handle was part of the design of the SAUO controller, but functioned separately from the controller itself. Later, the ACS added an automatic fan control function (position “A” on the handle), using which the controller regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor in order to maintain the set temperature.

The electric motor used in the design of the VAZ-2110 fan is simple, but it has “weak points” - the commutator-brush assembly and bearings. Wear of these elements causes incorrect operation and complete inoperability of the fan. Short circuits and winding breaks in the stove drive are rare, but don’t forget about these breakdowns either.

Symptoms of failure. Heater components that affect fan operation

Signs of a malfunctioning stove fan are quite obvious and impossible not to notice. Common symptoms of failure:

  1. Increased noise, grinding noise during operation.
  2. Significant reduction in air injection efficiency.
  3. The fan does not turn on.
  4. Spontaneous change in the rotation speed of the electric motor.
  5. It can be determined by ear that the electric motor is operating under heavy load.

In some cases, such consequences result from malfunctions in the power supply and fan control circuits, so you should check them first. This applies to:

  • fuse (blowout is the cause of complete failure of the electric motor);
  • resistor (if it is faulty, some speed modes of the electric motor stop working);
  • controller (the knob for switching fan modes is part of its design, so malfunctions of the automatic control system affect the functioning of the electric motor);
  • wiring terminals of the power and control circuits (oxidation, damage to wires is one of the reasons for a malfunctioning electric fan).

If diagnostics of these elements shows that they are in good working order, it is necessary to dismantle and repair the fan itself. But it can be diagnosed first.

Fan check

A check is done by directly powering the electric motor from the battery (we lay wires from the battery terminals and connect them to the power terminals of the motor) - operation under load, difficulty in gaining rotation speed, squeals and squeaks indicate wear of the drive components and the need to replace them. But if, even with direct voltage supply, the electric motor does not start, it is most likely that it has burned out or the windings have broken. Such faults are difficult to fix and it is easier to replace the entire unit.

Design features of the stove of the old and new models

The design of the electric motor of the stove on the VAZ-2110 is identical, but the fans and their location are different. On models of the first years of production, the electric fan is installed in the stove housing in front of the radiator and it is located horizontally (old-style stoves). Afterwards, the design was revised - the fan was already placed in the cabin filter housing and installed vertically (new model heaters).

Design of the VAZ-2110 heater

The SAUO replaced manual control of the heater, but otherwise the stove remained structurally the same. As in earlier models, the interior heating system is a housing with a radiator installed inside, connected to the cooling system of the power unit - a heat source, dampers that redirect the air flow to the desired zones, and a fan driven by an electric motor, which creates the air flow. SAUO is a controller that, depending on the set parameters, monitors the temperature in the cabin and regulates the position of the dampers, maintaining the specified mode.

The efficiency of the VAZ-2110 interior heater would be low without the forced creation of air flow, and this task falls on the stove fan.

Setting the temperature of the supplied air from the heater

To fine-tune the control unit, it has an adjusting screw. To check the accuracy of temperature control, close all doors and windows and place a control thermometer next to the temperature sensor. Set the fan control knob to position A, and the temperature knob in accordance with the temperature measured by the control thermometer. If after 15 minutes the actual temperature in the cabin does not correspond to the set temperature, remove the controller from the socket and turn the adjusting screw clockwise to increase the temperature and counterclockwise to decrease it. After adjustment, check the operation of the control unit again. The control unit, temperature sensor with microfan, micromotor and heater damper position sensor cannot be repaired and must be replaced with new ones if they fail.

Possible checks and malfunctions of the elements the heater stove VAZ 2110 2111 2112 and ways to eliminate them

How to hold a planned event

In order to get to the electric motor of a car heater, you must first open the hood and remove the battery terminal with a minus sign. Only after this can you go through all the following stages. If the fan does not work at first, you need to carry out the planned event correctly in order to achieve a successful result.

  1. First, the windshield wipers are removed. To do this, you need to carefully pry off their rubber caps and remove them, then take a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the brushes.
  2. The next stage is to carefully pry off the decorative plugs. It is best to remove them with a slotted screwdriver. In this case, you need to take care to carefully unscrew the screws used to secure the frill. Then you need to remove the nuts located on the edges using a 10mm wrench. Once the decorative plugs and frills have been removed, you can move on.
  3. Now you can remove the rubber seal and carefully unscrew the self-tapping screws with which the heater’s engine compartment shield is attached to the entire structure.
  4. Then remove the hose, which allows you to supply washer fluid to the nozzles.
  5. The most difficult and responsible task is trying to get to the right panel of the engine compartment and get it out. The right shield is attached using two nuts that can be easily unscrewed. However, the position will not be so comfortable during this procedure. Fortunately, the shield can be easily pulled out after a few turns, so it is not necessary to unscrew the nuts all the way.
  6. Before the shield can be disconnected, you need to remove the clamps from the hose.
  7. Now you need to work on the cabin filter, from the cover of which four self-tapping screws are unscrewed for subsequent removal of the structure.
  8. Now you can see the stove motor. To proceed further, you need to disconnect the heater motor block and the resistor block.
  9. Now you can pull out the left side of the stove. Fortunately, the heater motor on the VAZ will be pulled out almost immediately.
  10. After these steps, it becomes possible to replace the motor. In this case, the heater will work if a suitable motor is used.
  11. Reassembly is carried out in the order described above, but all steps are carried out exactly the opposite.

Knowing how to change the heater motor on a VAZ-2112 car, you can count on a successful result. A working heating device in the car interior will be available again after a few hours.

Replacing the heater motor (fan)

  • Head 10mm deep
  • Phillips screwdriver, regular and short
  • Ratchet with extension

To get to the heater motor, you will need to perform some preparatory steps, namely:

  1. Remove the wipers along with the arms
  2. Remove the upper plastic trim of the windshield (jabot)
  3. Remove the hood seal and the insulation that covers the heater housing

After this you should see the following picture:

To understand everything, it is better to watch the special video instructions that I will prepare for this article.

Causes of malfunction

Replacing the heater motor of a VAZ 2110

As a rule, there are many reasons for such a malfunction, these include:

  • clogging with slag from the stove radiator;
  • stove motor failure.

If the stove motor is not functioning, or some of its speeds are not working properly, then it is first recommended to check the resistor, which in other words can be called the stove rheostat. This element is responsible for the speed of the fan. You can purchase such a part in a specialized store that sells auto parts. As for replacement, this can be done with the help of a specialist or on your own, which is not so difficult even for an inexperienced specialist.

Note! In the case of repairing or replacing the heater radiator, it is recommended to contact a car service center, since it is difficult to remove the radiator yourself. To replace the stove motor, you will need minimal knowledge and detailed instructions.

There are heater malfunctions that can be easily fixed by any car enthusiast. For example, a situation may occur when cold air is blowing through the side deflectors and the windshield heating duct of the heating system, while a hot air flow comes from the lower and central air ducts. Most likely, the reason will be the unsatisfactory operation of the heater damper, which is designed to cut off cold air. In some cases, it prevents the normal passage of cold air. Such faults are most easily identified in the cold season

When bending the damper drive rod, special care must be taken so as not to damage the plastic parts. Please note that in winter the plastic becomes more fragile

Replacing the motor for the stove on a VAZ 2110

Of course, a non-functioning stove causes many problems in winter.

If this is not so important in the summer, then in the winter the windows will fog up. You can figure out what the reason is when disassembling the heating system of the car

Recommendations

Comments 8

I still can’t get around to doing this procedure...

I don’t want to resolder, but cut the wire from the new one, adjust it to size and press the old one, how bad or good do you think this method is?

And I have graphite ones... I think I will need to change them again soon... And so, I bought acid specifically for soldering copper and everything was soldered well!)

I also have a lot of fluxes and acids. I solder with enviable frequency. But my problem was precisely in the solder, which is Sparta. Neither a 40 nor 60 watt soldering iron can melt him properly. It does not flow, but begins to wrinkle. As a result, it just sticks on top in a piece, but does not leak between the threads, and it turns out that when bending, this piece of solder falls off. In general, if you see something from Sparta, DO NOT TAKE IT! I only have a profile cutter from Sparta that works fine. Well, it's a piece of iron. To do it badly there requires enormous talent in the hip forearms.

Any mechanism, including car components, breaks down periodically. Machines that are ideal and 100% trouble-free have not yet been invented. Breakdowns also occur with the French car Renault Logan. This is not to say that the heating and ventilation system in this car is a weak link, but its breakdown is definitely painful, especially in the cool season.

The operating principle of the interior heating system in Renault Logan is no different from other cars. The heater radiator is connected directly to the engine cooling system. Coolant circulates in it, the temperature of which, when the engine is running and warm, is approximately 90–100 degrees Celsius. The fan is directed towards the radiator. It creates a flow of air that heats up from the radiator and enters the car interior. The amount of heat is controlled by the damper lever and the fan switch.

If warm air does not enter the cabin or there is extraneous noise when the stove is operating, then the Renault Logan heater fan may need to be repaired. Many Renault owners believe that to repair the stove it is necessary to completely dismantle the front panel. And so it is written in the repair and operating instructions for the Renault Logan car. This pleasure is long and expensive. Because of this, some people even prefer to freeze in winter.

In fact, to inspect the fan, it is enough to unscrew just a couple of screws. You can handle this task yourself. But let's take things in order. Before removing the panel, it is easier to check the condition of the cabin filter. It often gets clogged and warm air from the stove may not flow through it. It's easy to check: it's located in the glove compartment niche, on the right side of the panel. If everything is in order with the cabin filter, then the fan should be inspected.

Preparation

Preparatory activities do not include many complex operations. You will need to do the following:

  • Remove the negative terminal from the battery to de-energize the car and protect the car from possible short circuits;
  • Drain the coolant from the system. To do this, open the cap of the expansion tank to relieve excess pressure, and then unscrew the drain. The liquid must be drained into a special prepared container.

When draining the cooling liquid, one important rule must be observed - the procedure is carried out only when the engine has cooled down. If in the future you are going to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze, then choose a clean container for draining. If in the future you are going to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze, then choose a clean container for draining

If in the future you are going to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze, then choose a clean container for draining.

Replacing the heater fan on a VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Welcome! Stove fan - if we go deeper into the terminology, the word fan means an impeller with blades, but people are so used to saying the word fan, that’s why we called this article that way, in fact, in it, today we will look at replacing the stove motor, we’ll immediately warn you that If your motor starts to work incorrectly, for example, sticks, or all the contacts inside it have burned out, then do not try to restore it, but rather buy a new motor from a car shop, of course, this pleasure is not cheap, but you will install it and forget it for a very long time time to talk about it, if you have absolutely no money, and the stove has stopped working (the engine has burned out), and it is cold outside, then you can get it cheaply or look for it at various flea markets, etc.

Note! To replace the stove fan, you will need: Screwdrivers of various types (from short to long), spanners, wrenches and we advise you to stock up on a new cabin filter (This is only if the filter has not been changed for a long time), just to remove heater motor, you will need to remove the windshield covers, and by removing the covers, you will still have access to the cabin filter!

Where is the heater fan located? Having removed the covers that are located under the windshield, something like this will line up before your eyes (see

photo below), pay attention to the red arrow, it was made to separate the housing in which the stove motor is located (It is on the right) and to separate the air intake (Air intake on the left), here in the place where the air intake into the stove goes, there is also a cabin the filter is located

When should you change your furnace fan? At the beginning of the article, we roughly described all the symptoms that will occur if the motor fails, but it needs to be repeated, not all people read everything that is written on the page, in general, closer to the point, the fan can fail completely (This happens from time to time, and also if a high voltage was applied, then it could simply burn out, there are such cases due to the negligence of the people themselves, some people put coins instead of fuses, the wiring began to melt, and due to the fact that there is no fuse, the circuit does not open and the wiring ignites immediately), maybe partially (any speed doesn’t work, but it’s not a stove, it’s most likely an SAUO unit, it’s easy to check, just replace it with a known good one, if everything starts working as before, then the unit needs to be replaced), and It may generally begin to make unpleasant sounds (This is also a stove), such as squeaking and the like, all these malfunctions appear over time, or maybe immediately after purchase if the stove is defective or was purchased in such a used condition.

Note! By the way, besides the motor itself, many other things can fail, most often it’s the SAUO unit, or less often the stove itself, and don’t forget about the fuse, otherwise you’ll disassemble the whole stove, replace the motor and other heating parts, but nothing will change, then look in the fuse block and see a burnt-out fuse for the stove, it will be very disappointing for you, it’s just a waste of money, so always in the event of any breakdown, first of all open the mounting block and see if all the fuses are intact, as a rule the fuse goes to the stove F18!

Stove fan

Structurally, the fan consists of a DC electric motor with a commutator-brush assembly and an impeller mounted on the electric rotor. motor. The electric motor is powered from the vehicle’s on-board network. There are several modes of fan operation, the difference between which comes down only to the rotor rotation speed, and this is realized by inserting a resistor into the power supply circuit of the electric motor.

The fan operating mode is set using a handle located in the heater control unit on the center console. Initially, on the VAZ-2110, this handle was part of the design of the SAUO controller, but functioned separately from the controller itself. Later, the ACS added an automatic fan control function (position “A” on the handle), using which the controller regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor in order to maintain the set temperature.

The electric motor used in the design of the VAZ-2110 fan is simple, but it has “weak points” - the commutator-brush assembly and bearings. Wear of these elements causes incorrect operation and complete inoperability of the fan. Short circuits and winding breaks in the stove drive are rare, but don’t forget about these breakdowns either.

Symptoms of failure. Heater components that affect fan operation

Signs of a malfunctioning stove fan are quite obvious and impossible not to notice. Common symptoms of failure:

  1. Increased noise, grinding noise during operation.
  2. Significant reduction in air injection efficiency.
  3. The fan does not turn on.
  4. Spontaneous change in the rotation speed of the electric motor.
  5. It can be determined by ear that the electric motor is operating under heavy load.

In some cases, such consequences result from malfunctions in the power supply and fan control circuits, so you should check them first. This applies to:

  • fuse (blowout is the cause of complete failure of the electric motor);
  • resistor (if it is faulty, some speed modes of the electric motor stop working);
  • controller (the knob for switching fan modes is part of its design, so malfunctions of the automatic control system affect the functioning of the electric motor);
  • wiring terminals of the power and control circuits (oxidation, damage to wires is one of the reasons for a malfunctioning electric fan).

If diagnostics of these elements shows that they are in good working order, it is necessary to dismantle and repair the fan itself. But it can be diagnosed first.

Fan check

A check is done by directly powering the electric motor from the battery (we lay wires from the battery terminals and connect them to the power terminals of the motor) - operation under load, difficulty in gaining rotation speed, squeals and squeaks indicate wear of the drive components and the need to replace them. But if, even with direct voltage supply, the electric motor does not start, it is most likely that it has burned out or the windings have broken. Such faults are difficult to fix and it is easier to replace the entire unit.

Design features of the stove of the old and new models

The design of the electric motor of the stove on the VAZ-2110 is identical, but the fans and their location are different. On models of the first years of production, the electric fan is installed in the stove housing in front of the radiator and it is located horizontally (old-style stoves). Afterwards, the design was revised - the fan was already placed in the cabin filter housing and installed vertically (new model heaters).

Despite the design features, dismantling the fan is a simple operation and does not require complete disassembly of the stove.

On a VAZ-2110 with an old-style heater, to remove the electric fan you need to:

  1. Dismantle the frill.
  2. Remove the front wall of the niche in which the heater is located.
  3. Remove the back cover of the fan housing by first unscrewing the screws and removing the clamps.
  4. Disconnect the wiring from the fan and remove it.

Heater motor

7.11.1. Design Features

GENERAL INFORMATION

Diagram of the automatic heater control system

1
– fan electric motor;
2
– additional resistor;
3
– controller;
4
– mounting block;
5
– ignition switch;
6
– cabin air temperature sensor;
7
– recirculation switch;
8
– recirculation valve;
9
– micromotor gearbox for heater damper drive;
A
– to the instrument lighting switch;
B
– to power supplies

3

Diagram of the automatic heater control systemAddresses of the output plugs of the heater control system controller

The controller receives information from:

– sensor 6

air temperature in the cabin (a small fan is built into the sensor);

– micromotor gear shaft position sensor 9

heater damper drive, i.e. information about the position of the heater damper.

Based on the information received and the set air temperature, the controller controls the position of the heater damper, sending appropriate signals to the damper drive micromotor.

If the fan operating mode switch handle is in position A, then the controller also controls the fan speed depending on the difference in the air temperature in the cabin and the temperature set point.

A valve is used to quickly warm up the air in the cabin. 8

recirculation with switch
7
. When the valve is turned on, the flow of outside air into the cabin is blocked and only cabin air circulates through the heater.

The vehicle is equipped with a heater fan electric motor of type 45.3730, excited by permanent magnets.

Additional resistor 2

serves to select the fan operating mode. It has two coils with a resistance of 0.23 and 0.82 Ohms. When you turn the heater fan switch knob on the heater control panel, you can turn on either both spirals (1st speed), or a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohm (2nd speed), or turn on the engine directly without a resistor (3rd speed). I speed).

It is recommended to replace a faulty electric motor with a new one. The only possible repair is cleaning the collector.

Addresses of the heater control system controller output plugs

PlugPad address
13-terminal 6-terminal
1“Minus” of the micromotor gearbox shaft position sensorOutput "1" additional resistor
2“Plus” of the electric motor of the micromotor gearbox
3“Minus” of the cabin air temperature sensorHousing ("mass")
4“Plus” of the micromotor gear shaft position sensorOutput "3" additional resistor
5“Plus” of the cabin air temperature sensorOutput “2” of additional resistor
6"Plus" diagnostic output"Plus" of the power supply
7
8“Minus” of the electric motor of the micromotor gearbox
9"Minus" diagnostic output
10
11Input “Turn on backlight”
12Diagnostic output “+8 V” “Plus” of the electric motor of the cabin air temperature sensor

Malfunction of the interior temperature sensor and controller in VAZ 2110 2111 2112 cars

1. If the interior temperature sensor is working properly, the heater operation algorithm should be as follows: at maximum (red dot) - movement to open the damper; at minimum (blue dot) - movement to close the damper, other positions are fixed depending on the temperature set by the interior temperature sensor. To see if the damper is moving, it is better to remove the front deflectors; they have two plastic latches on the right and left (be careful not to tear off the backlight wire when removing). VAZ 2110 windshield wiper motor repair (photo). Possible breakdowns, malfunctions and reasons for replacing the fan of the VAZ 2110 stove. After removing the deflectors, you can clearly see whether the damper is moving or not, i.e. air flows through the heater or not. In addition, you can check the resistance of the interior temperature sensor.

Lada 2110 Banditskaya 10 - ka › Logbook › Replacing the heater motor of a new VAZ 2110

Unfortunately, it was a quick repair; I had to do everything myself in 2 days off, given that it’s 15-18 outside, and it’s not too warm in the garage, up to - 10. In general, let’s go step by step. Breakdown: I was driving I was traveling for work. And suddenly, after one of the stops, I started my car, and realized that when I turned the heater motor control, nothing was happening, at first I thought, well, who knows, it happens, I tried a few more times, silence, checked the fuse, everything is fine. Realizing that it was noisy the engine was not because it had not been lubricated for a long time, but because it was dying, I put the car in the garage and the decision was made to repair it myself, because the cost of the engine ranged from 1000 to 1800 rubles, and I would have paid about 1000 more for repairs rubles, let's move on to the main thing: - The first thing you need is to disconnect the negative terminal! to avoid any short circuits—Next you need to unscrew all the screws holding the casing, exactly as shown in the photo with yellow arrows.

Next, we remove the frill and see this picture

further, for more convenient removal, you will need to either bend the casing or remove it, it is difficult to remove because it is attached from below in hard-to-reach places, but I was able to do it, I think you will find it and it will not be difficult to feel with your hand where exactly it is held, so we will skip this moment.

Next, we remove the cabin filter, this is the thing on the left with a mesh, there are 4 fastenings. In general, I will indicate all the fastening points where you need to unscrew so that the engine is separated from the radiator

Next you need to naturally disconnect all the chips and carefully, try to move part of the stove to the left so that it comes out of the grooves on the right side, pay special attention to the fastening on the left to the body, because unfortunately I broke it off, but it does not particularly affect the fastening and installation . Next we see the following frame:

Next we see the following frame:

Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the motor from the housing and remove)

Reassemble in reverse order! DO NOT FORGET! BEFORE ASSEMBLY, MAKE SURE THAT THE NEW SPARE PART IS OPERATING!

I hope this will help someone at least a little bit, because I didn’t find a normal description for myself on how to remove a new type motor! And in the end I went to suffer in sub-zero weather myself)) Less breakdowns for everyone!

Issue price: 1,430 ₽ Mileage: 134,700 km

Previously Taking out VSK insurance Next Installing LOVATO 3rd Generation LPG

Problem solving

Eliminating the inability to control temperature

There may be several reasons for this problem:

  • Control unit malfunctions,
  • Damper failure.

Any of these faults will cause the heater to malfunction.

If the heater controller fails, the damper extension command may not be given. Therefore, you should immediately check the temperature sensor located near the ceiling light on the ceiling. To perform the test, turn the temperature control lever from left to right several times. The temperature of the air flow can be adjusted tactilely. This test is based on determining the operating state of the temperature sensor in the extreme position of the handle. If the flow temperature only changes in the extreme position of the sensor, it must be replaced. If it does not change significantly, you should look elsewhere for the cause of the failure.

Insulation Troubleshooting

To check the operation of the heater, it is necessary to remove the central deflectors. To do this, bend the special antennas and move the shutter manually. The latter can be reached through the engine compartment. When choosing this part, it is better to choose the aluminum version rather than the plastic version. The radiator of the VAZ-2110 stove requires the greatest amount of work when replacing it, because to do this you need to remove the entire stove. If you do the work yourself, you can save a lot of money. Read here in more detail on how to change a radiator.

Transmission Troubleshooting

When the heater fan begins to “drive” only cold air, then we can assume that the heater has failed. In modern models, dampers and adjusters rarely fail due to the fact that aluminum is already used for their manufacture at the factory. 90% of furnace failures occur due to the gear motor. This part is clearly replaceable.

In this case, car repairs are carried out in the following order:

  • We remove the wipers, remove the protection,
  • The protection moves away, using a short Phillips screwdriver we unscrew the three mounting screws,
  • Unscrew the wires
  • We connect a new gearbox,
  • Bring it back.

It is better to carry out this type of repair with an assistant. This will switch the air flow from hot to cold and vice versa. After installation, the return parts are assembled in reverse order.

Eliminate poor hot air flow in footwells and side windows

This problem is very common on domestic cars. For this reason, feet freeze in winter and windows fog up. It is very difficult to drive in such conditions. The only way out. Modernization of air flow channels.

The procedure looks like this:

1. Make sure the oven is working properly. When it works perfectly, you can start upgrading.

2. Remove the panel and disassemble it into its component parts.

READ How to Make a Beautiful Exhaust Sound of a VAZ 2106

3. Solve the problem of side windows blowing out. This can be solved in two ways:

  • Install a new corrugated hose.
  • Glue all the slots on the panel.

To increase efficiency, it is better to choose the second option. We continue to work.

4. Glue all the gaps between the bottom and top panels to the squeak.

5. Glue all holes using fasteners.

6. We modify the furnace damper, which helps direct air to certain areas. At the factory, this damper is poorly pressed to the body, which is why some of the heated air is lost between the slots and goes somewhere on the panel.

7. Start dismantling the sash. Remove it and completely remove the yellow factory seal.

8. Glue the valve to the model and close all the cracks. This procedure will help the air flow out of the valve perfectly as intended. Instead of a sponge, it is better to use Bitoplast10 on the body, which sticks neatly in several layers.

9. The driver loses a lot of adult air on the way to the glass. This large gap must be covered by the installation. Doesn't squeak when moving.

10. We are upgrading the air ducts leading to the feet of the front passengers. The device that distributes the warm flow to the feet has a huge gap that needs to be repaired. For this purpose, the use of a corrugated tube is allowed.

11. We completely remove the standard air distributor from its original place, put corrugation in all the holes and fill everything with foam plastic. The diameter of the pipe used must be exactly 40 mm.

12. It turns out that corrugations will be installed: one for the passenger’s feet, the other. For the driver - the third. At the feet of the rear passengers. All this is installed on site and connected.

Troubleshooting an air heating furnace

In this case, you can improve some elements of the stove:

1. Replace the heater damper with aluminum. This will help retain heat and prevent fragments from deforming.

2. Replace the installed factory heater “2110-01” with the heater model:

  • "2112-01." does not have a filter for air purification.
  • "2112-02". Equipped with such a filter, but does not have an air recirculation function.

These filters can withstand a mileage of 15 thousand kilometers.

3. Install pre-heated heaters to warm up the engine and interior even faster.

For more significant damage, the hob may need to be replaced. Most often, replacement is carried out while setting up the VAZ 2110 with your own hands.

How to remove the VAZ-2110 plate and replace it can be seen in the video.

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